Rhitter

Oh, don't get me wrong. I still like the look of low.

After 9 years on the road, I am happy to report that my car has naturally hog-zawsted itself. Sure I have to worry about carbon monoxide in the cabin now. But, I have the sweet sound of power without having to resort to proprietary patented washer technology!

Found some oil on my turbo oil drain. Unsure if it's coming from the drain or up above a little higher. More digging to do.

I have been low(er) for so long, I am really liking the way the outbacks with a lift look.

Those V60s / V90s are pretty sweet looking.

This part out thread is like Boxkita's Legacys: doesn't start.

I found the OEM plug from around $140 - from I think Subaru Online Parts, decided to go with that. I don't want to get back under my car to change it out.

Check engine light that's telling me it's bad.

What are the working front 02 sensors? I know that Rebourne you had a bunch of issues with yours. Just go OEM? Although I think those are like $200.

The CVT operation doesn't bother me. Not shifting gears is fine. It makes for really smooth / non-jerky acceleration and is pretty cool. It's sort of everything else about a CVT that's the problem.

I do want something bigger. But,don't want to spend $40k on another car. And honestly, really not a fan of Subaru turbo engines anymore. They are "fine." But, even when they are "proven" they have well known / documentation failures.

What's with the square hole in the skid plate?

No. You must have damaged something else. or check if the fuse for traction control is blown. I have "slammed" and "raised" my 2008 XT and never had that problem.

I need a new windsheild, I need to replace the front o2 sensor (I think I have the original one and I just got a code for it) and I need to replace an OCV.

One frozen bolt made this take 3 days. Went through 5 drill bits drilling out the bolt.

Get compression and leakdown tests for sure

yes, that should be fine. Most of us don't have the ability to "just weld" though. And this is an easy DIY that you don't need to pay a mechanic to install.

A decent amount more. Coils will not give you waht you need to correct rear camber + you will be riding on the Outback bumps stops If you get the extended height coilovers (allow you to go an inch or so lower that a stock outback) or put strut spacers on top of normal coilovers you should be fine. Once you get to around Legacy height you need to start thinking about rear camber.

Got a quote for fixing rust around the windshield - $2,200! I guess that's what I get for buying that has lived back East and had someone shitty replace the windshield before I got it.

Boroscope? See if you can see any cracks in the piston rings?

Car was annoying me at the lowered height. Rear rub on the drivers side, hit the hitch too easily. Mostly using the car as an old school muscle car (floor it on the straights, drive sedately in the turns) and sitting in traffic. Back-up it goes. Front - JDM Legacy wagon springs (not pinks) + .75" spacer, rear KSRS-29+.5" spacer. Still need an alignment (and probably a tire balance) for some reason my steering wheel is no longer straight and the steering wheel vibrates at 70ish. Just noticed I had a to-do list from 2/25/2019 from the list 1. Doube Din - sold. Didn't do. 2. replace rear light gasket 3. Unplug VDC from steering wheel 4. Raise car - done! 5. Selling my wheels instead and running the stocks 6. Replace cracked windshield and rust repair

Fingers crossed for you.

I like my Bilsteins......

I removed my Pinks. Raised my Outback up 3/4inch in the front and about an 1 inch in the rear. I prefer the stance and will really enjoy not hitting my hitch on anything. Also pulled off my 255/40/18 wheels because again the slight rub was annoying me. Decided to put the Outback back at the height where I enjoyed it. Went to low .

Time for a van. Mini-van or even better a full size van if you are regularly carrying around 8 people. I think even an extra-long suburban will feel cramped.