Tehnation

im wondering if ecutek is banned or something, i called 2 places on their list and looks like everyones closed down. Latest entries on facebook are like mid-early 2022 then crickets.

So ecutek is cheaper and more versatile. 375 for the kit and like 100 bucks for a tablet which you can use for ANYTHING really, versus 650 675 for a cobb that has one use only. So already not a bad thing.

From what I can see my state only wants catalytic converters that meet california standards? That looks like what was affected by CARB in NY, and thats a visual thing I think. People should look at what parts of CARB actually affect their state cause it looks like its not a full blown cali situation, states seem to pick certain aspects of CARB , like ny making CARB compliant catalytic converters required, but other than that I don't see anything else that relates to CARB for my state.

I passed my inspection this year with no tgvs and NY is a CARB state I believe, so i'm not sure what all the small nuances are to these laws. I'm assuming some cars don't get affected by the new regulations.

Any idea whats needed like that dongle or the costs to use ecutek? Seems like licensing etc. is involved.

Im leaning towards ecutek myself, I just need to find a tuner close by. Seems you can connect that dongle ecutek has with a tablet or phone, which is basically what a accessport is, a handheld thinga ma jiggy, but a tablet or using ur phone seems to make a lot more sense, less devices, and you don't have to worry about someone stealing your 650 dollar paperweight....

I think the issue with the 02-05 wrx is that our plastic intake manifolds won't bolt to it or did I get that wrong?

is that motor sidefeed or topfeed?

I'm just mad that I spent 6 or 7 hundred dollars on a device that basically went obsolete and rendered useless several years later.... So if I am passing an inspection with an aftermarket tune, how does that work? hmm efi is listed as a dealer for delicious tuning, maybe ecutek, I will see what they say. How did this just slip by everyone... I never thought I would see the day where a man in the good ol USA can't work on his own automobile, smh ... wtf did I miss LOL!

So Cobb has turned into a simp lol. For a company that used to be at the forefront they are really spitting in the face of all their hardcore fans. Only reason I bought this fucking thing was cause the tuner said they needed it to tune my stage 3 cams, now I buy one and its fuckin useless....... I legit have been waiting years to tune this damn car.... I wonder how they are enforcing it. For example can a tuner just not use the latest software and just use an older version that works the old ways, or is cobb using some kind of online registration/verification kind of bullshit. Either way seems like cobb sold out to the trendy kids with stickers for hp. Cause what about the subarus that are pure race and dont give a damn about registration and inspection cause they don't drive it on the street? Has cobb left the racing world? No one at the track is gonna care about tgvs etc. or use software made for ham and eggers.

is ecutek street legal? will it work with my oem ecu so I don't have check engine lights etc. is it standalone or piggyback, basically can I pass inspection with ecutek? How much are we talking for ecutek? I might just sell my cobb accessport and reinvest.

FUCK! Tuner just told me I need tgvs, pcv system(got that), and the damn catted downpipe which I bought cause they said I needed one, might not be good enough....... I just want to break things and curse right now..... I was scheduled for a dyno tune on the 25th, back to square one. I am so sick of this already. So my question is this, is it the actual Cobb software that these tuners use the issue, where it won't let you mess with the tgv, or is it the tuner covering his ass due to laws etc. Cause at this point if every tuner is turning into a tree hugger, then I better pay that 150 for the cobb tuning software class, and do it myself. But if the software is the issue, then I gotta go opensource. This is just stupid. Cause from the looks of it, fudging the tgv signals isn't what these tuners are looking for, they actually want to do it by the book, so playing with signals to trick the computer might not be enough, they might actually want it to WORK lol.

Might be time to move on, I know the feeling, its worse when one day you show up and you've been laid off due to cutbacks without any warning... it's why I started working jobs with more stability, like an established hospital, the electric company or utility jobs, VA(veterans association). Government/federal jobs are always a good bet. Jobs based purely on sales and customers suck ass cause its a rat race, jobs at places that don't really need to sell stuff because they are essential is working for me and my friends, ie hospitals, utilities, govt. Basically places that don't compete with other companies, sucks to be on the losing team, better to not even get on the field at that point. How many corporations and chain stores has Amazon waffle stomped at this point lol! I wouldn't work for any corporation going toe to toe with them.

Pneumatic impact gun makes short work of those sprocket bolts. One of the best investments in my tool arsenal.

ahhh, my fault, brainfart, I was thinking oil temp, not pressure. There's one in the back in the middle on the passenger side you could use like you said. My oil pressure gauge is 2 in 1, both temp and pressure, I stuck my pressure sensor in the block where your talking about and temp sensor in the oil pan, what I linked was an oil pan adapter..... wait why is your oil light on all the time?????? Is your oem pressure sensor connected or working properly? hmmm, for the aux input, isn't there a factory wire that runs from the radio to the aux input in the center console? https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru__/49311431__6022926/CONSOLE-BOX-CENTER-REAR-07MY-07MY/B13-930-04.html#92174 The bottom left, figure 830 with the A, I think that guy, can't find the part number. Did you get your radio and console from junkyard? I'm not sure if that is part of the body wire harness or just a simple cable. Someone may have the part number, but this has been done before I believe.

. what oil pressure gauge do you have? I used this https://www.killerbmotorsport.net/oem-to-1-8npt-oil-temperature-sensor-adapter.html.html replaces the oil plug, and u stick the sensor in the middle. For the aux port, you just need i85 adapter I believe https://tightfitfab.com/2005-2009-subaru-legacy-gt-outback-i85-adapter/

I also believe that the manuals on our cars have belt guides for the timing belt on 3 of the 4 corners, and the automatics do not.... not sure if its true, but I think I read it somewhere on this forum. Maybe someone else could confirm or deny.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/165734326673?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5338722076&customid=&toolid=10050 flexplate

They are the same engine manual or automatic, whats different is whats attached to the crankshaft in the back, for manual u will have a flywheel, and for automatics you will have a flexplate.... but same shit! You have a flexplate already, would have to move it over to the other motor. I doubt it will come with a flywheel or flexplate, and if it does just take it off if its a flywheel, or use it if its a flexplate. Very complicated! Plugging it in doesn't mean it works, the ECU has to actually know what to do, and our cars our single intake avcs so the ecu wouldn't know what to do with those wires, so adding an exhaust avcs means you need the ecu that can actually process that information otherwise no point. And that motor is jdm so finding a jdm ecu is another task, "OVERNIGHT PARTS FROM JAPAN!" , then you have to figure out if it can work with the rest of the car like your gauges etc. which is another clusterfck if it isn't plug and play.

you could rebuild the block for a fraction of the cost of a new one. Don't know how handy you are, but if you pull the motor and tear it apart to inspect the crankshaft, if the rod ate through the bearing and hit the crank, then you probably need a new crankshaft, if not, then its not so bad. Get some new piston rings, a new rod, new rod bearings, might as well replace the crankshaft bearings as well. Get a machine shop to hone the cylinder walls if they need it. Depending on the damage you might be able to spend 1k or less versus 2k on a new sb. If you have another car to drive and the space, why not? If the crank is good, you could get away with maybe spending 500 bucks in parts. I just don't know how much anything oem costs, a rod, or rod bearings or crank bearings, but I couldn't imagine they are expensive. You could even put in some better pistons, I just always assume crack ringland in the stock motors.

Heres a good start. sports car club of america has a bunch of events. Doesnt show anything past may though. https://www.scca.com/pages/how-do-i-get-on-track https://www.tracknightinamerica.com/events https://www.scca.com/events?categories=trackdays%2Ctrackdays-2%2Ctrack-night%2Ctrack-events

If the seat is in good shape, you can knock it out with a cheap spring removal tool from amazon for like 20-30 bucks, or company23, a hand lapping tool for like 10 bucks, and some grinding paste another 5 or 10 bucks. I like adding skills to the toolbox.

Don't they have events down south by like jersey, or more south, that let you drive an entire day for like 300 bucks. My friend ran it by me when I linked that poconos track. Said it might not be worth it, you get 10 miles in a 600 hp car, which is probably limited to some point, (he said he did one of those packages and he couldn't go more than 125 or something), and 2 -15 minute sessions in your own car, and I think poconos is just an oval. 600 bucks, might get you a lot more ride time in your own vehicle elsewhere, I will also look into it. His buddies run a bunch of those type of events, but they are more motorcycle events, some should know about car events.

Is that an extra motor ready to go in or did you already pull it apart?

Seems like a lot of work for a used motor, any warranty on that motor? A new shortblock is like 2k, plus another 500 i'm guessing for a master gasket set, and oil cooler. 'Probably need to rebuild the head or just have them cleaned, another 500 or 600 for that, maybe a lot less if you just need it cleaned. Probably want some arp head studs to go with that, or you can reuse them I think, some of those bolts and washers are one time use. ... Probably will need a timing belt so maybe tack on another 400 or 500 for misc, which I think is gross overestimate. I would use that for some goodies and miner upgrades, killer b oil pickup and oil baffle, arp head studs etc. Thats about it for the meat and potatoes, so thats like what, 3.5k, so 3.5k for new and everything is straightforward and a forum of people that been there and done that versus 2500 blind in the dark for something used that can send you down the rabbit hole and end costing a lot more money. I would rather cough up the extra 1k even 1.5k for a new 2.5L short block at that point tbh. #ynansb isn't that expensive if you do most of the work yourself, it gets expensive when you have to pay someone to pull the motor and do engine work.