Tehnation

But I don't want to touch the cam.... hmmm I think I need some dye, toolmaker's dye, you spray it on the journals and let it dry, then bolt the camshaft in, spin it and you can find the high spots or where its touching, depending on that result I may or may not be able to work some magic. I'm actually a mech engineer, so I am familiar with a lathe and machine work.

At that point might as well just get another head. Might be easier to just polish the camshaft for that tight journal.

https://www.mcmaster.com/4424A571/ https://www.mcmaster.com/4424A509/ This guy might do the trick. Need to think about which grit to use, 600 or 800 grit I think is the right thing, just needs a polish.

I'm now wondering why I pulled the intake manifold back off... Now that I think about it I didn't have to.....this is what happens when you work to many hours and you work on your motor half asleep..... Hmm I think I can get a 1 inch or so hone kit and hit it with a drill, anyone know what's the journal or camshaft diameter?.... might be the easiest and simplest way. I wonder if they come that small, I would think so, time to search!

Its the rear cam cap, the same one that's been causing me all sorts of issues. It's just tighter, as soon as I took it off it was able to spin freely by hand. Why can't I sand the cam keepers? Isn't it the same concept as line honing/boring just not as accurate? Its all the same metal I believe, I don't think the contact surface is different from the rest of it. GP?

Contacted BC about the issue. Seems the cams might be on the high end of tolerance and my heads are on the low end which is causing these issues, which makes sense. They want me to measure the ID with the cap torqued down, they will then cut the cam to fit accordingly.

I'm assuming this is why I have been having all this cam trouble. Hmm, what grit would be good for sanding my cam journals? At this point I'm just going to do what I can, i'm not pulling the heads and doing a line bore, I would rather just do my best and run it til it explodes and start over. God I hate overhead cams..... I love me some single internal cams!

after I just did the timing.... and put on the intake manifold... at least I didn't put the headers back on..... back to the drawing board... peas and rice.... I'm just going to hit it with sandpaper until it works....

hmmm. all my cams were like that at first, not just the exhaust one. So i figured it was by design, cause eventually they all get easier to turn.

On another note, after finishing my buckets and bolting down the cams I realized that everytime I installed the new cam for the passenger exhaust it was always tight. For example, i can't spin it by pushing on the lobe with my hands, I have to put on the cam gear to get the leverage I need to rotate it, versus my other cams which I can spin without the cam gear. I'm assuming the cam needs to grind or wear itself down some before operating correctly. It does say to run for 20 minutes at idle, I assumed it was to harden but it may be to seat the cam properly. Wondering if thats by design or an issue?

Looks like I need to put it in the fuel, all the gunk is in the combustion chamber, either on valves or top of piston.

Hmm actually, I think I have a can. This stuff?

New buckets finally came, and I also dropped my oil pan finally. Everything looked good no flakes or debris! Tunes really rich so I want to clean the cylinders cause I know there is buildup and I didn't pull the heads this time so I need another solution to clean out the sludge. I hear seafoam does the job, anyone familiar with this seafoam?

Its gotta be, you can't have an exhaust like that on the street lol, well you can but..... I also don't see an ac compressor. Interesting setup, though from this build I'm thinking if you spin the turbo 180 degrees and rotated it so the exhaust was pointing straight up, you could fit two turbos in that same space, and exhaust it through the hood. If there were two smaller turbos , could use smaller diameter piping, maybe get it to streetable. Not saying op should do that, just my thoughts in general, cause this is awesome, and Ive been contemplating an h6 twin turbo after i finally get through my high rpm build. Lots to learn from this!

Thats gonna be loud! What are you going to do about cooling?

American muscle has really made a comeback, especially with these vin diesel movies and the brotherhood of muscle campaign from dodge. Ford has the new crazy coyote motors, GM has the LS and LT motors which both can take well over 700 hp reliably, then you have Dodge and their crazy ass hemi's which is in everything, I think they are discontinuing hemi's next year. They all can make tons of hp on pump gas with reasonable gas mileage. Seems like the last hoorah before electric and green takes over. Then you have all the regular cars with these super automatic transmissions with like 10+ gears, which makes you second guess a clutch cause yea basically they are faster lol. So much easy horsepower out there these days, and its not only the hp, its these new transmissions with all these gears and technology which makes a motors hp several times more efficient. The same motor on an old tranny and one of these new ones will make a world of difference.

Not my fault lol, I say a streetcar cause have u seen what cars are doing from the factory!?? M this and AMG that, Turbo this and Supercharged that.... even electric... 20 years ago 300-400 at the wheels was enough to rule the streets and highways..... now they are putting that out straight from the factory lol. I'm not looking for extremely high hp and high rpm, just high rpm with anything above 400awhp. More so highway driving, nothing but highways and interstates in this area, so I want top end power not low end.

Scroll up to around october 24th posts, it has all the specs. I overlooked the valve clearance specs for the aftermarket cams, I did oem, which aren't what the cams require. OEM is like .2 intake and .35 exhaust with a wide range of tolerance + or -, My cams say .20 for intake and .25 for exhaust, so I had to change them from oem to BC specs. The number on the bucket is the thickness in mm, so a 490 bucket is 4.90mm thickness. I use mm so its pretty straight forward. like a 4.90mm bucket with .30mm clearance means I need a 500 bucket or 5.00mm to get it to .20mm clearance.

Redid my buckets, seems like I need to order 4 more. Exhaust are at .25mm and intake are at .20mm. So this time around I didn't bother using a micrometer. I realized it was kind of pointless when my feeler gauge is highly inaccurate, ie .20mm, .23mm, .25mm .28mm.... with those kind of readings there really isn't any point measuring the buckets with all that discrepancy. So I just measured all the clearances with my feeler, pulled the buckets, looked at the numbers and adjusted it purely on the numbers on the buckets. This made it a lot faster and easier. I put em back in and my driver side is perfect as it can be with my feeler gauge(basically .20mm worked and .23mm didn't or .25mm worked and .28 didn't) so basically up to +.02mm of inaccuracy , passenger needs a little work, I can force it but might as well just get 4 buckets.

Damn, that brake booster delete opens up a lot of room! Wondering if that would be the way to go if you would want a two turbos? Anyway you can take a picture of that area? Mainly the steering shaft part.

I hear ya, but thats why its annoying, domestic and more common motors have tons of published information..... which is why ejs/boxers suck in that aspect lol. 100 years and no real published material other than this motor is flat and works like this lol? Domestic/Common motors have like 100s of these John Ronkowskis. But it makes sense, from a business point of view why invest r&d in a minority market with a low amount of performance enthusiasts, when you can invest that r&d into something more common like a honda, Honda makes at least like 5 times more cars yearly than Subaru to put it in perspective. Larger audience, more parts to sell. On top of just needing so much effort to work on the car makes everything expensive. Like a rear engine car, these cars are a pita to work on which equates to more money in labor charges compared to other cars. If you wanna do ANYTHING, gotta pull the motor lol. Most cars you can pull the head without much effort, and all this fuckery. Instead of paying someone for some headwork you gotta pay for engine removal AND the head work. Thats why all these turbo subarus get tossed in the garbage when they break.

interesting! I'm not to informed on Porsche, I wonder what rpm those flat 4 turbo motors make?

Couldn't say, but a flat six is vastly different and they use a timing chain. Are porches high RPM cars? I'm not sure, but I think only the really really really high end porches have high rpm.

True but how much r&d goes into such an obscure motor? Domestic motors have gone through all sorts of testing both by normal consumers and companies, compared to boxer engines its leaps and bounds ahead in the research department. Subaru motors are like an extreme minority when it comes to the world of engines, I would say the only thing more obscure is the rotary engine from mazda. V8,v6, inline 4, inline 6 .... compared to those wtf is a boxer engine? Thats why u have so many variations for a v8 motor or even a honda motor. I wouldn't say its cause of design, I would more so think it's more along the line of who is putting in a bigger cam for just higher rpm and not hp and who has done the actual proper research and documented it? Everything I have read about cams for a subaru is basically armchair, nasioc is cool and all but its also poisonous in my opinion. Nobody's really doing the research cause, why bother? Not that many turbo subarus and not that many people who give a shit about those fine details like spinning to 8k cause they can get it early. I don't even see useful articles or posts about stage 3 cams .. its all armchair bullshit. Has anyone in the import scene done an article like that for the ej25 motors? Ive searched the internet and tbh subaru motors are just lacking in the information department. You have motortrend and whatever magazine doing crazy dynos to get results for anything and everything domestic meanwhile everything boxer or subaru engine is tight lipped and obscure. Its a pita setup to even work on , a god damm 4 cylinder with 2 heads and 4 cams? Eww! Might as well get a v8 at that point lol. I just think the engine has not really been explored and documented. All you see are forum posts about he said she said, where are the professional journalist when it comes to cams and subarus? The world doesn't care about turbo subarus cause they aren't really the common mans car imo. Anyone can get a v8 or I4 from the junkyard and make tons of hp, compared to ej motors which are a lot more rare. And with that comes very little data and information.

TY, I will need it! So the reasoning behind going with the stage 3 bc cams wasn't to make disgusting amounts of power but to just move the power band to right. I don't want 400-500hp at 5-6k rpm, I want it 7-8k rpm. From driving the car so far on this crap tune all I can say is it's a lot more fun when you move that power to the right. Of the line its blah, cause I'm not dumping the clutch but lets me just cruise around 3k-4k, after 3.5-4k rpm its all business. And I have a fuel cut at 6 or 6.5k rpm for break in reasons so I haven't even given it the beans, and its obvious its still making power at the cutoff, like someone walks in on you and your woman and you are rounding 3rd and about to score a run lol. From my knowledge moving the power curve to the right isn't simple with these motors, so my theory was to just find cams with a lot more duration for more air, but not so much lift, from my experience duration is more important, and from what you said lift is obviously a bigger pita, ie you gotta modify the head to take the added lift cause of the taller lobe. So short of having a custom cam made, I went with mildest(lowest lift) cam with the most of duration. I could slap on a bigger turbo and get more hp, but that was never my real goal! I want a wider power band, hp is the 2nd goal. I don't need earth shattering hp, I just want my max hp to come at 7 or 7.5k rpm.