Tehnation

To late at this point lol! Dice have been rolled! We will see what happens when the dust clears! The valve clearance for oem versus these cams are different, and the tolerance seems to be a lot higher.... adjusting buckets again is going to be a pita, seems like the original guy who rebuilt my heads noticed this which is why everything was so tight, and then like a noob I went and put them back to oem specs...... wtf The one thing I do want is to upgrade the tensionser. I was looking into that for a while. Everything else is in gods hands! LET IT RIDE!

damnit..... I gotta redo all my buckets for exhaust valves.... shit this sucks.... At least the intake valve clearances are same as oem.

hmm, I gotta see if the oem specs for valve clearance are the same, that was an oversight. .203mm for intake and .254 for exhaust. I might have to redo my buckets..... wtf....

Could you elaborate on that part? Add it where exactly? Cause these cams according to BC require no modification to the head at all. That's why I went with them as opposed to the GSC or Kelford. The BC cams are milder compared to the GSC and Kelford when comparing the stages. As for the springs, I used the ones that BC recommended for their cam. So far everything has been working just these small annoying issues that require me to pull the motor. But overall they seem to run fine on the street.... I'm that guy on the road lol! My only concern is its running rich to the point I smell gas in my oil, but I have some simple etune atm to break in the motor. My build was to start with my 20g turbo get that dynoed to see where i'm at, and then the next major mod on the table was a monster ATP Garrett Gen 2 GTX or GT turbo, which I could use with grimmspeed tmic using the adapter piece they sell. Then after or at the same time I would upgrade to the cobb flex fuel kit to run e85/93 octane mixtures.

BC Stage 3 with BC springs BC0600. Shooting for 7500-8k rpm, street car, anything above 400awhp. Not sure about the clearanced for lift part.

Driver side is fine. New cam comes today. So I think that cam cap which I buggered a while back was the issue, so going to use threadlocker on it, cause I'm not getting a new head, so I gotta make do. Still need to drop the oil pan, but from the looks of the oil it seems fine. Can I reuse these cam seals? they literally got like 100 or so miles on em.... i don't wanna go all the way to the subie dealership... They look like they are in good condition, whatever , LET IT RIDE!!!

I love BC.... another cam is on the way..... looks like I got another 25 cents to continue LOL! I still need to pull the cam cover for the driver side, if the same bolts are loose then its a vibration/force thing, if not it's probably an oil in cam cap threads thing. Thats what i'm thinking atm.

Honestly if you were doing a simple rebuild you probably wouldn't run into my troubles. My troubles stem from trying to go a different route than most people. Normally, you just slap on a big ass turbo and some injectors and your fine on the stock valve train. But my focus is more on higher rpms, which is why I am having a lot of issues. The stiffer springs and bigger lobes means I have to stop thinking oem and start thinking high performance. Not many people run aftermarket cams , let alone stage 3 racing cams, so don't use me as a measuring stick! Plenty people have done simple rebuilds with great success. These cams have no business being run on the street, BC said as much, you go to the website and it specifically says racing, while the stage 2 is street/strip, but I am going to make it happen regardless After I rebuilt the shortblock myself its been holding up like a champ, these last issues are from not properly understanding the extra strain from the added resistance from the stiffer springs. The reason performance companies charge big money is because they go through all this nonsense to learn the small secrets and nuances, things they don't put in youtube videos and forums, call it tricks of the trade or industry secrets. For example I am thinking I may want to torque down my rear cam caps a bit more, but not sure if the bolt can take it, therefor I gotta see how much an oem bolt can take otherwise I may look into seeing if there are aftermarket options. I am also going to add some kind of threadlocker to make sure the additional vibration forces from the more aggressive valvetrain dont work the bolt out. Ive been using oem standards but like I said I need to rethink some things.

Forgot about car part.com! Just checked, they got a ton of used ones near me for 25-35 dollars, a lot cheaper than I thought they would be, was expecting around 100, but for 25-35 thats a no brainer. Thanks for offering!

Hmmm jb weld? Which epoxy or putty could I use to fix this? The break came from the other bolt coming out and forces being applied front to back. So if I glue it back and loctite my engine/tranny bolts, there shouldn't be an issue cause the forces the starter motor puts out are left to right, and the thing cant spin. I'm gonna try a 10 dollar something before I drop any more cash, worst case I gotta pop the clutch... What metal is the starter motor? Anyone know the best way to glue that back on? Just gonna use jb cold weld, 6 bucks.

The valvetrain has less than 2k miles on it, I haven't changed any parts since I started this build, but everything was new except for several valves that needed to be changed when I had the heads rebuilt the 1st time, since then everything is the same except several buckets from when I adjusted the lashes. Will drop the oil pan, I don't think contamination occurred, the break was very clean, like brittle metal just snapping, so I don't think there were many extra particles, but your right better to be safe than sorry. I think oil in the cap cover bolt holes gave me false torque readings, add that with the extra forces and bolts backed out allowing the camshaft to bend under load.

I think the stiffer springs and bigger lobes are putting larger forces on that camshaft which worked out the cam bolts. Going to clean the bolts and bolt holes out with brake cleaner to make sure there is no oil, and put a dab of loctite blue this time around.

Not seized, car was running fine on 3 cylinders (not fine, but could start and drive), until my starter motor bracket sheared and basically fell out. So the part about it not starting again was unrelated to the cylinder 3 misfire, but does tell me that the overall vibration of the motor/car is a lot more and I am going to need to loctite blue everything.

Im vibrating bolts out everywhere, the cam cap bolts, my starter motor bolts, and some other things I noticed when pulling the motor. I feel like I own a harley davidson lol. I'm just glad I don't need to pull the heads. I emailed BC to see whats up, hopefully they send me a new one like last time. And now I need to find me a used starter motor as well.

Oh it snapped cause the rear cap bolts came loose, the cam caps were very loose, like I could wiggle them, to the point where I am going to use loctite on them this time around, probably was oil on my bolts or in the threads. Going to inspect the driver side some time as well. I know they were torqued to the 14 or 15 ft lbs. Motor is fine, camshaft snapping is actually a positive lol! Cause as soon as it snaps valves stop moving so no interference, just hope all that backed up pressure, oil and fuel didn't bork my piston rings, but I doubt it, seems like it was just pushed back into the intake manifold.

I can't make this shit up..... my exhaust camshaft snapped just like I had suspected...... my cam cap bolts for the back caps for both the intake and exhaust were all loose as well. My starter also snapped and thats why i couldn't start. I don't know wtf is going on at this point. Everything was torqued to spec cause I snapped a bunch of bolts to learn that lesson, so I know it was torqued to spec. Is this increased spring force causing issues? Who knows!

If i'm doing a leakdown.... like you said motor probably has to come out. So pulling the motor today, not even going to bother troubleshooting anymore, somethings fcked! I was moving the car into the spot in my driveway where I work on it, then it just died and wouldn't start, like the starter lost all its teeth. Just hoping its the head and not the block.

..... your 9 year old is right. More i'm thinking about it the engine is gonna have to come out.... cylinder 3 is dead and has spark and fuel, so its either a valve, or my rings which are letting everything blow by, but a ring wouldn't make that sound, and the tapping points me towards the valves... maybe I burnt or bent a valve? If thats the case, it will probably happen again i'm assuming... My turbo doesn't sound like its hurt or sound like a piece of shrapnel hit it. What else coulda happened... snapped my camshaft or valvetrain exploded .... who knows... gotta put this on the back burner while I get my truck back on the road.

Oh yea, and what are we in the 20th century? No speakers for your desktop? Come now, let's be civilized! What are we barbarians? No smartphone?

hmmm, that video sounds completely different from the way it was running several days ago when I made the 1st post. I think I might have 2 issues, something electrical and the valve lash. I'm just pissed atm and don't want to look at the car so I will get at it tomorrow.

I have b25 heads, I didn't see any shims when I was rebuilding the heads/motor, just buckets. Do the b25 heads have shims? I have a bunch of extra buckets from when I did the lashes last time. Hopefully its just the lash and nothing more serious, I meant adjusting the lash by changing buckets. Will probably check the timing and tensioner as well as try and see if the valves with a borescope, I lost all the adapter fittings so I can only see straight ahead and the valves would be behind it so it will take a bit of maneuvering.

Hmmm, I can adjust the lashes without pulling the motor right?? Seems like it would just be a pita, but a hell of a lot easier and cheaper than pulling the motor. I'm wondering why suddenly its happening and why it didn't happen from the get go when I first adjusted them? Guess I did a shit job adjusting the valves.....

I think I got a valve/timing issue, I posted a video, that tapping isn't to good..... Got spark and fuel.... i don't feel like dealing with this.... I gotta check the timing and pull the valve cover.... not sure what the problem is, just hope it isn't something I need to pull the motor out. Could it be my lashes? Probably should do a leakdown or bust out the borescope..... time to go jump off a bridge.... 20221003_102739.mp4

Can you use any of the noid bulbs? Or is there a specific one?

Think I coulda bricked my ecu? After the flood, my obd port wasn't working for a day or 2, so water got to the ecu now that i'm thinking about it. I have an extra one laying around somewhere, I'll try it tomorrow. Waiting on the testers from amazon, should be here Sunday, fell asleep and ordered to late, coulda got em tomorrow. .... sigh, I took my truck off the road to do some long needed maintenance cause I thought the suby was finally working, now i'm carless... these things happen at the worst time.