Tehnation

What's the name of this bullshit shop? Are they Subaru specialists? After pulling my motor several times and dealing with several shops for rebuilding my heads, I have come to the conclusion that I will only go to a shop that actually has a lot of experience with turbo ej's. It took me several tries just to rebuild my shortblock, 1st time I had someone do it, and it ended up blowing a rod bearing within 1 or 2k miles, then I rebuilt it myself but had nothing but cylinder head problems. These motors are really god damn finicky. The machine shop I go to now for any work happens to be close by my home and the owner of the shop drives a 4th gen lgt, nuff said for me lol. Only a scumbag shop would take 10's of thousands from a customer and then leave them stranded in the gutter. If they don't have enough pride in their work to even look at it after the fact or honor their warranty says a lot. They legit basically told you to go fuck yourself? They didn't look at the car or drive out to your home to look or offer a tow truck? Just took your money and said it was your fault without looking at anything? My god, whoever owns that shop is probably a junkie or gambling addict and is squandering the shops money, cause I'm assuming they must have had their ducks in a row for you to even approach them.

I'm curious about that oil filter tool and that undertray. Ive long lost my plastic undertray and run headers now and I need something to keep it from getting wet and steaming everytime it rains/snows, that looks nice and simple and easy to remove and install. How much you pay for it if you don't mind me asking. Figured I would check amazon, they got those oil filter cutters for like 30 bucks or so. https://www.amazon.com/SAVYSPEDY-Filter-Cutting-Replace-77750/dp/B09XJVBKSM

I didn't know it was so much cheaper online. If you go to any auto parts store your easily paying 35-40 bucks for a gallon, I paid 80 for a 2.5 gallon jug I believe from autozone. 25 bucks free shipping is a no brainer lol.

Amazon has gallon jugs of Rotella T6 5w40 for 25 bucks! https://www.amazon.com/Shell-Rotella-Synthetic-1-Gallon-Single-Pack/dp/B01LH7L0KS

So I was thinking I need to stock up on some Rotella T6 and found Amazon sells gallon jugs for 25 bucks, so I ordered 3. Considering I pay the same for a jug at Autozone for cheap dino oil this is a nice find. https://www.amazon.com/Shell-Rotella-Synthetic-1-Gallon-Single-Pack/dp/B01LH7L0KS

I just did another check, and it seems this oil temp sensor setup I have might also be leaking some oil. The oil pan his this basket on the inside around the bung, and my adapter oil plug with the thread through the center for a sensor doesn't have enough room. I think my oil temp sensor is hitting the basket inside the oil pan and not letting it seal properly cause it can't go in all the way. Or maybe I should use more plumbers tape to try and make a better seal. Shoulda cut that basket off or drilled a hole in it when I had the oil pan out..... This is a problem for future me, I am not going to throw away this expensive oil I just put in, will wait until its oil change time to deal with it. For reference, I am using something like this, not sure of the inside thread but its for whatever my oil temp sensor is. https://www.killerbmotorsport.net/oem-to-1-8npt-oil-temperature-sensor-adapter.html.html

So I decided to try the sealant again because I realized that the oil in the pan seems to go to the top of the pan, maybe not when level but my car parks on a incline, which seems to make the oil raise pretty high in the back. I think when I used the gasket it would slowly seep through. There are different materials for gaskets for this motor, I have been using the cheap shitty paper like ones recently which I didn't like cause I think it was seeping through, but the 1st time I used a gasket it was made of a more rubber like material which sealed great and got me hooked on using them, but I have no idea where I got it or what brand it was. So if you do go the gasket route on this car use the gasket that has some kind of silicone or rubber. I have tried a cork one as well I believe but hard to remember the results, but I think it was better than the paper style. I literally pull the motor like an average of 3-4 times a year at this point, so I go through a lot of stuff, I got like 4 5 gallon buckets filled with oil that I should get rid of at some point.....

So I did it RIGHT this time! Looks like no leaks, and on another note, make sure u have oil and oil filters before you pull your car apart drain the oil and toss the filter lol. I'm like whoops, guess its time to use my jug of Rotella T6 that I have been saving for after break in and I was able to find an extra oil filter I had stock piled somewhere. My car seems to like the T6!

I will say using the gasket does allow you to rock and roll immediately...... its supposed to snow tomorrow so this kinda sucks lol

Guess I will wait until it dries, then add oil to see if there are any leaks before I put this header back on. The me of tomorrow will worry about getting the header back on LOL! Oh yea, easiest way to get the sealant off of the pan is to just smack it with a wire wheel, I was scrapping for a while, then hit it with my wire wheel and it was all clean in less than 5 minutes.

lets try it again. using the sealant the right way this time ..... Now I can't get my header back on.... its so easy when the motor is upside down, but from the bottom its a pita, cause I gotta pull it apart a mm or 2 to get it to go on both sets of studs at the same time....

yea i fucked that all up.... maybe I should have actually looked at the fsm lol

I remember this from the early days I believe. Its not that the fsm way is bad, rather it's just better to smear it evenly around the entire lip of the pan if I recall correctly. See how the sealant didn't work its way to some of the bolt holes, which I am assuming is where it was leaking. It was literally pouring out the oil pan when I topped off my oil. Found all this sealant crap in my oil pickup..... i'm just done with it lol. Now I gotta clean all this crap off my oil pan, which I am not looking forward to.

So I am remembering from a long time ago that following the fsm sealing procedure was bad and you should smear it all around the oil pan including around all the holes..... i followed the stupid fsm and laid the sealant in the spots it showed..... you can see the big spaces around the holes.... gaskets ftw! Is there some kind of magic trick to get this sealant off? God I hate glue....

Those back screws are so hidden, I don't see how you can get them out without jacking the motor up. I am trying to fix it now, and I raised the motor like an inch already and those bolts are still a pita to get to. Gonna have to use a swivel while blind.

I used a screwdriver to screw them in to avoid that. Is over torquing the bolts a common cause of oil pan leaks? I just thought over torquing led to the bolts snapping?!

I'm thinking my gas soaked oil is eating away at that sealant.... going back to a gasket this time.

aftermarket headers, i have the maperformance 4-1 el version 1 headers. It curves right over that low spot on the oil pan making it impossible to remove the pan without removing the headers, and the inside nuts that bolt the headers are in such an obscure spot so its a task trying to get to the bolt even when the motor is on a stand.

How do you normally get the pan off with the motor in the car? I believe all you need to do is raise the motor a little, or can you without raising the motor?

I'm like where is my oil going.... then I see my oil pan is spewing oil out..... I finally decide to use sealant this time and it definitely sprung a leak. omg, i don't want to pull this fckin motor again, but I can't get the oil pan off without removing my headers and these headers are an absolute pita.....

WTF, efi logics doesn't do tgv deletes anymore? Oh god...... more bullshit to add to my plate. 1st they had me get a catted downpipe, now this., I really hate emissions and tree huggers...

I looked in that little panel under the rear passenger side for that junction, but it seemed fine to me. Didn't notice any leaking. The level hasn't dropped since I topped it off, or maybe its very small and will take a while, so I have to give it some more time to see if its a leak or I just forgot to top it off at some point after bleeding the brakes.

I don't think the seal should be air tight, cause air has to be able to go somewhere I thought?

I wonder if jacking my car up on jack stands in the front only caused it to leak, shouldn't be an issue cause you gotta change tires.... but doesn't need to go that high to get a tire off versus a jack stand. My suspension is lowered and stiffened as well so might make for a steeper angle. Guess I will keep driving and find out lol!

hmm..... maybe I bleed it and didn't refill. After topping off the 1st time, hasn't dropped since, but I haven't really driven anywhere. I probably drive 10-20 miles a week. I will try some hard braking next to see what happens.