utc_pyro

(Yesterday) Installed Cortex EBC for the external waste-gate, and replumbed the rest of the boost control system. Wiring was straight forward (everything you need is behind the gauge cluster and accelerator petal), but the plumbing was a huge pain. The BNR 16G turbo has a tiny boost reference banjo that dos t have quite enough flow for all the things I want to hang off it. Banjo is M8x1.25 thread, and I found a 1/4” barb kit on eBay that fit. Unfortunately the OEM coolant line interferes with this, and the ghost of Baldwin Automotive struck again with another stripped Allen head bolt in an inaccessible location. I had to cut the bracket holding the line to the turbo with a rotary tool. Then a 10mm wrench was sacrificed to Subaru gods. I was using it to hold back the PCV hoses in that area , and it decided to drop whenever I walked to the back of the car to get the new banjo. I can’t see it anywhere and it didn’t fall out the bottom. I just hope when it does decide to come out it doesn’t get jammed in something important.

Thanks for posting this! It seems Perty generic from google translate, but none the less is helpful. Unfortunately i’m not seeing anything about recommended ride heights or anything. The design of the set is kind of odd, because at least on mine the fronts are drop limited and rears are raise limited. As in I have the fronts all the way down, and rears about 15mm past the helper springs and into fully preloading the main. If you don’t change the rear spring for a longer one you can easily run it out of travel. That just gives an even ride about ~15mm lower than stock.

This is correct. The line in question vents the crankcase while under boost. I dont like how Radium and your diagram mix it with the head vents though, because those should be flowing air into the block under lower loads. Thus you're contaminating the clean air flowing into the heads reducing the systems effectiveness in clearing out bad gasses. On my dual can setup I actually run the crank (non-pcv) vent and heads to separate cans. Then the PCV valve is hooked up like factory. This allows water and fuel to be burned off under vacuum, but stops oil vapor for clogging up the intercooler and throttle body.

Today: I replaced the Nexus 7 wiring harness and the battery eliminator circuit with one that was ground isolated. Hopefully this will solve the false dead battery alerts and shutdowns as the coulomb counter wont be as confused. The standalone/piggyback electronic boost controller for the external wastage arrived today. Just waiting on the Mac 45A 4-port valve to get here to go wire that up. I'm excited to actually have wastegate tuning by gear as the '05-'06 ECU doesn't have it. Currently the EWG MBC hits 14psi in 1st, 16psi in second, and ~18psi in 3rd. This this has something simular to out initalt wastegate duty cycle tables along with boost targets and pid peramiters for each gear, .

Those messages haven't been found yet. If you want to hook up a logger before you pull the navi you can figure them out though.

https://subdiesel.wordpress.com/ecu-analysis/can-messages/ Subaru uses a consistent CANBus message format, so the data will be in the same place as those on that site if it's available. Some fields are active that aren't in the above listed though, and some data isn't actually transmitted so the bits are left zero. The highspeed canbus (between ECU/ABS/BIU) has the most interesting information on it.

These appear to only be the ODB port can messages. The newest cars split this off from the internal buses. If you want to map what's going on between the control modules this is a good starting point: https://subdiesel.wordpress.com/ecu-analysis/can-messages/

Yes it is a direct fit. Quality from that OEM is hit or miss, but better than most no-name eBay specials. They (or Mamba turbo, which branches off of them) mor it less make Steemspeed’s turbos, though steemspeed does additional QA. BNR Supercars 16G is another option that’s actually cheaper and had USA support. You absolutely MUST get a eTune it protune to support any replacement turbo. It’s not optional.

Nope, you can flow through it. There is a yellow/white foam inside.

Really wishing I had a Cobb DP instead of a CNT right now as it’d be possible to get to the wastegate spring without dropping the downpipe. There is enough vertical clearance to get the top off, but not to get the special c-spanner in there to get the locking ring off. Thinking about grabbing the Sirhc Labs Cortext EBC for the EWG. I has the capability to do throttle/RPM based boost maps like the factory ECU, but it has gear based control and a “d” term in the pod controller. Running the EWG off this with a 4-port solenoid and 1-d table mode should work more or less like the MBC hybrid system I have hooked up now.

It's for the MAP sensor. Keeps oil vapor for hurting it, and helps smooth the air pulses.

Tonight I messed with the USBtin CANBUS analyzer I have wired into the high speed bus for the first time. I wired it in when I put in the aquamist system last year, but never had a reason to go poking around until this EWG stuff. I found this DIY Electronic Boost Controller development blog (which was eventually developed into a commercial product), and wondered if I could branch that into almost a piggyback ECU just for boost management. Instead of running a bunch of extra wires why not tap into the CANBus: Throttle position, engine speed, gears, and even shift data is already known to be there with much defined by the Subaru Diesel Crew. The only thing missing to make this work is boost pressure. The canbus monitor tool the USBtin comes with sucks, but reviewing a video I shot of it while starting the car I found what I was looking for: manifold absolute pressure! CanSource: ECU CanID: 0x601 Bit: 7 Units: KPA Update interval: 100ms It may be atmospherically compensated, as it started at exactly 100KPA with the motor off and ~55KPA. The only thing I'm worried about before investing a ton of time into this is if the 10hz refresh rate will be fast enough.

You've never tuned a turbo Subaru have you? We run at that set limit all the time on 93. If we get consistent knock enough that any timing is pulled we're in for short engine life from broken pistons. Your signal conditioner probably works great on some platforms as a way to save money on gas, but it's not a performance adder on these cars. Best case you'd net even, but you're likely to loose power because your timing will now be so far from MBT. There are better options out there. Cobb if you're MT, delicious tuning flex fuel if AT. The later is a total hack job (it hijacks the IAT sensor and temp correction tables to do ghetto flex fuel), but it can actually result in a net benefit still.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ExErl9NM77M]EWG = Antisocial - YouTube[/ame] I think this EWG thing is the most anti-social thing I've ever done. I want to get a really quiet exhaust now (borla?), because WOT will take care of any anti social urges and more... On fixing the boost taper, I've been reading about alternative ways of plumbing the EWG vs going through the pain of changing the spring. This would be super easy with a 4-port solenoid on the ECU's wastegate solenoid output, but that would defeat the whole quiet at part boost thing with the IWG. It looks like you can use a pressure relief valve on the lower port (basically what my grimmspeed MBC is) along with a pressure regulator on the top port. The pressure regulate will apply a fixed pressure to the top port the first time you go into boost, which will allow the MBC on the bottom port to essentially go negative. And if you use a releaving pressure regulator your gain stays the same as well, so you'll have tighter control and less early opening. McMaster car sells a cool panel mount back-pressure (99045K11) and pressure regulator (43275k16) valves that would be perfect for this, but maybe I should just go change the damn spring instead of mad scientisting something this time....

Ah, gotcha! Initial results from "tuning" it tonight indicate the spring pressure it too low. I had swapped in the 10PSI combo before installing it (target boost =< 2x spring pressure method), but that doesn't seem to be enough. Adjustment in the midrange was fairly linear up to ~16psi, and it kind of hit a wall. It took 3psi of adjustment to get to ~17psi. It's also tapering fairly aggressively above 4500 RPM, dropping down to 12.75psi around 6K RPM before rising back up to 13.25psi at redline. So I guess I'll try the 14psi spring again and see what that does. Unfortunately it'll decease the "gain" of the control system, so it'll start cracking earlier and have a looser set point. It's also a massive pain the the ass to change the spring....

Swap the ECU in the dealer parking lot. After you get the carpet up and the panel off it only takes a minute or two. If you decide to just swap the EEPROM I’ve done some surface mount work before. Glad to help or lend out tools if you need them.

So I did a thing lastnight. Damn tight fit with the CNT/invidia clone catted downpipe, and the Grimmspeed heat shield no longer fits. EWG isn’t doing boost control yet, that’s a project for this afternoon. IWG will stay in service, but at full throttle will be set to 100% WGDC with the EWG controlled by a Grimmspeed MBC. Keeping both will make things quieter in the 50-90% throttle range, prevent the EWG chuffing sound, and allow me trim the response with the IWG if needed. Turbo spoil and responsiveness is up just from the up-pipe change. The Tomei one that comes with their ELH is laughably oversized.

With the pistons all being cracked, did it have a meth injection failure or major overboost event?

I wouldn’t run the air tool filters long term, but for one OCI looking for oil it probably would last. Getting plastic filter bits in the motor obviously wouldn’t be good.

Hum, well as a test if it's blowby or not you can put a cheap harborfreight oil/water separation inline with both your PCV and turbo inlet line. If it's blowby you'd see it in the filter, but if it's the turbo bearing or an external leak you wouldn't see anything.

Are you running a stock or modified (in some way) PCV system? It may be you're getting more consistent blowby at highway speeds pushing oil out. Which could be due to age, or YNANSB. I will say coming form a car that used to consistently eat oil that a new block, valve guides and turbo will fix it for sure

Is that parts list everything already on it, or your build plan?

So the recent chatter in this thread got me curious, so I started watching misfire counts on the in-dash tablet. Low and behold "1" and "4" are getting some if I get into boost any real amount of time. So what is the threshold of counts that one should be concerned? The car vibrates quite a bit at idle, but I never see any misfires then.

Interesting, this is actually the first set of washer headlight I’ve seen opened. They fit the non-washer version, but obviously not these! Can you post pics on what’s inside the cans? Through the bulb hole would work, or remove the lense. I want to see if there is an easy way to modify the shield at least. These look like they are based on some of the higher end koyo projectors, so may be advantageous to find a way to make them work.