utc_pyro

12v-5.2v converter powered off ACC/IGG1. OTG y-cable plugged into that, and a second set of wires directly to the hub. Yes I know that creates a ground loop. Battery is normally at 90% or so once the thing fully recovers.

For those with Nexus 7's in dash: Do any of you find when you get in your car your tablet is off? Particularly that it's off, then boot loops twice (gets all the way into the OS then says "shutting down"), then finally behaves? I'm trying to debug some odd issues. This thing worked great on my bench, but is falling apart in production.

Pressurizing your gas tank. What covert did left left the main valve in place, so the ECU can control evap burn off and close this off once in boost. He just removed the circular boost controlled one that doesn't do much.

That looks a little bigger than the old electric motor, but nothing like the Prius Prime which has two motors that also run the transmission. It could just be an artistic interpretation, leaving out the front motor/generator, but it looks a whole lot like the old system.

There isn't a port, you'd have to tee into the fuel line.

I'm interested to see how the plugin XV works. They said they are using Prius Prime tech, which is a step up from the previous way they did it. It'll probably be more robust then there current CVT's as well. From the rumors I've heard they are going volvoish on the next major platform refresh at least for bigger/performance platforms. Rear electric axle with ether dual motors or electronic LSD. Then a single motor/generator on the front drive train set up FWD. Possibly the 2.0L or 1.6L turbo motors up front. Prius derived front drive train modified to be longitutal, then Highlander derived rear. They could use the driveshaft tunnel for more batteries. Though maybe they are actually doing that on the XV, the Toyota Highlander did the electric AWD thing for a LONG time so there is plenty of stuff for them to borrow from the mothership.

It should be pretty easy to get more then 300hp out of this thing with a tune, but I worry about the transmission. Though in reality it's also not the transmission being an issue, it's Cobb being stupid. The Subaru CVT's actually all have the capability of handeling the power you see on stage 2 CVT WRX's. I was doing some reading today and the FXT, which tends to blow the CVT more, is mechanically identical to the WRX unit. In operation it runs a lower max secondary/line pressure though. This is the pressure used to squeeze the two pulleys together on the belt, and proportional to torque handling. This neatly corresponds with the calculated torque values in those ECU's. That is a loopup table the ECU uses to estimate it's power output which it tells the TCU via canbus. So, just like we found on 5EAT cars, you need to bump the calculated torque up with your mods so the tranny dosent eat itself. Unfortunately Cobb wont get their stick out of their ass and add it to there definitions files. Thus tune this thing at your own risk.

Yes the JDM switch plugs right into the USDM harness. You need to add the four wires to the harness to make it work though. you can rob one of those from the existing harness if your car dosent have VDC (black-white stripe) That is a JDM switch I added a USDM VDC button to. Yes you can use the base. Or the JDM mirrors are adjustable enough to use them as is. The USDM plug on the door side is missing the fold wires, so all this wiring is to add those.

When I has the intake flow benched it was only off by maybe 3% up top, so The G/sec is less arbitrary then people give it credit for. The reason everyone is chasing their rears trying to get a AFR they expect has to do the the crazy number of compensation tables our ECU’s have, non leaner injector flows, air/fuel resonance issues, and even combustion effects that change the measures AFR. Some people have found timing and AVCS effecting their wideband reading. Timing can’t change now much air the motor is flowing (beyond provinging more turbo drive energy) TGV delete testing at last! We’re you able to get the 3” pipe lined up with the turbo center line, or did it require an offset couppling? Also noticed you have your block and head breathers tied together. Wouldn’t that cause the heads to breath in crank case gasses instead of fresh air at medium loads?

Due to Bernoulli’s principal you may just be seeing the effect of the air flow speed. What’s your G/sec reading at this pressure? You should be able to compute the air velocity at your test point and see how much pressure drop to expect in an ideal situation. That said i wonder about the 2.4-2.5” turbo inlets and if ones like the AVO or COBB with a 3” inlet gradually reducing to 2.4” at the turbo might perform better.

abick23 just bought them and got steel ones. The price roughly matches what you can get steel ones for elsewhere, so it looks like RockAuto "fixed the glitch" on us getting cheap aluminum ones. They probably lowered the price to match the new steel arms before they ran out of the aluminum ones. re: Clunking hell with arms; Bushing look fine, and so do the body side bolts. Need to get fully under it Sunday to investigate the ball joint and swaybar endlinks. One of the kartboy bushings looks kind of rough so I ordered a new one, but the noise doesn't seem to correlate with swaybar load changes. It's even popping/clunking when one tunes the wheel while stopped so I'm still leaning toward the balljoint or it's installation into the knuckle.

Is the dash recall still active? Mine has just started to show melting, one year after doing the airbag. Also if so has anyone negotiated just having them supply the parts? I need to fix some other things under the dash, and it’s make life much simpler if I did it all myself.

Update on the Aluminum “ULTRA-POWER“ arms: they may very well be junk. Car felt super solid for the first 120 miles are so. In the last week it’s developed a clunk and pop in the front when stopping or turning. Need to get the car in the air to check, but I strongly suspect the balljoints May have already gone bad. Guess you get what you pay for, just wish I hadn't dropped $500 in labor swapping them out and aligning the car to find this.

Making progress on my Nexus 7 LTE install thanks to solidxsnake and his custom ElementaX kernel enabling fixed install mode for LineageOS 14.1. Software is just about there, just need to add the automation. I rotated the USB plug 90* tonight like several of you, and applied artic silver between the CPU and RF shield, and the RF shield and heat spreader. This should help stability running at 2ghz. Then I hooked up a 5.2V PSU, modified hub, and USB switcher. Two of the hubs ports are rigged up to only activate with a 12V relay for backup cameras and the like. The USB switcher will let me flip the another hub with the wideband and OpenPort between the Nexus 7 and a tuning laptop. What is everyone doing for mounting the tablet to the bezel? As this is a LTE model with ~6 antennas I'm apprehensive about using metal brackets. Also is there a recommended anti-glare screen cover people are using?

Covert, what's are your airflow numbers for those test in G/Sec? This is the granular flow-vs-depresion results Jeff (myaudis4.com guy) got on our stock intake: 335cfm is roughly what our cars will do stock. So it looks like your improved intake brings performance back inline with what Subaru was designing toward. Does your setup have room to run one of the 8-10" long fiters that the AEM Intakes for the '08+ WRX/STI used? Also curious that the turbo drive energy reduction due to a ~0.75PSI depression reduction didn't show any power gains. But you also reduced backpressure by a lot in previous test showing little to no gain.

Potentially Bernoulli effect at the WG pressure reference port? That's a pretty high linear flow area, but one wouldn't think it's that high of a pressure drop. Where is Flinkly? He’s an ME and shoul be able to answer this. You sure the spare sensor is on good health? Pressure drop across your throttle body when the turbo is at high enough speed to create boost. At part throttle sometimes my BOV even opens due to this. In searching for MPG gains, this is an area you could improve. The energy going into compressing this air is being wasted.

I think you’d pull and plug the vacuum line going to it and check fuel trims. Or use a hand vacuum pump to do kind of a reverse leak down test. Congrats on the kid. To put your IAT sensor into the TGV’s you just need a pull up resistor between the signal and 5v+ wire. A 940-950ohm resistor will make the scaling the same as the IAT, EGT, and fuel temp sensors.

Transgo shift kit. Also adjusting the calculated torque tables will get you 90% there unless you’re running a crazy high power setup.

Any of you all run elementalx instead of timurs kernel? It looks like it supports newer version of Android. Just picked up a 2013 LET Nexus 7 for $60 and have a navi bezel on the way.

Did you check for internal leak in the break booster? These cars are getting to that age.... If you want to measure both at the same time, move your post IC sensor to your MAF sensor input and pre-IC to the EGT input. It might actually be a good idea to do this, as you could hijack some of the stock cat protection logic to reduce turbine drive energy if it starts overdriving the turbo. You'll need to disable MAF-IAT compensation, and change the IAT-timing tables. The former aren't used in the '07+ roms (even though in theory you should), the later would actually make your tune safer as it would compensate for heat soak before knock actually happens. Edit: Also when are you going to get those TGV's out so you can check pre-IC pressure with that MAP sensor I sent you? With that you could calculate your compressor efficiency and really nail down what it's doing.

ULTRA-POWER CMS80182 ULTRA-POWER CMS80181 You can find these at RockAuto (it's their house brand). The ones I got appear to be identical to the Mevotech's, but with the OEM grade vs X-force grade ball joints.

Those look to be the same as hardrace 6840 bushings. They are a Taiwanese OEM of a lot of aftermarket suspension stuff others rebrand (Megan, Godspeed, ect). Should be able to find them cheaper through a different distributor.

I considered that, but if it was busing wear would you get the exact same results on both sides? They were both 0.51 and 0.52 degrees out, I wouldn't think rubber parts would wear that consistently. The arms were replaced this time due to a bad ball joint, and already having these on hand. Bushings weren't perfect, but they were better than when replaced the first time. Interesting, but per CovertRussin's post that lead me to order these in the first place, didn't the pic always show a steel arm but it arrive as aluminum? Or did RockAuto switch to a diffrent OEM for their house brand arms and thus they are now steel?

I finally put on my Aluminum "ULTRA-POWER" arms on last week. Have to say the solid rubber bushing has a MUCH better feel than the OEM SpecB bushings with the voids in them. Turn in feels quicker, and things take less time to "settle" into a turn. After installation toe was -0.51* out on both sides, so it looks like these arms are just SLIGHTLY longer shorter than the stock ones. Also the Ultra-power arms are back down to $39 each, less than the cost of a ball joint or replacement bushing.

it looks like your CAI did intact help your post IC temperatures. The IC will mask a lot of the gain percentage though, and that shows up here. Interesting that you’re seeing zero power gains, as both your boost pressure was higher and post IC temperatures lower. For efficient intercoolers, the newer STI ones are considered the best you can get from the raw efficiency and pressure drop standpoint. You just have to change a lot of parts and build a custom splitter to get that efficiency. STI style turbo compressor, intake manifold, throttle body, BOV, BOV hose, and MAP sensor at the very least.