utc_pyro

Yep that they do. It’s done on the base of the plug.

On DW740’s look for the engraved number on them. That’s how they identify and batch them post conversion. Spray pattern is the same as OEM on 740’s.

Looking back at my log revisions I cant make sence of my "version" codes, so I included the last two versions I know weren't related to the Grimmspeed intake, and the latest Grimmspeed one. These will look a bit different down low than most. The stock tuned uses the MAF/MAP compensation table and the per injector pulsewidth comp tables to act kind of like a speed density tune. I removed all of that trying to fix some low idle issues my car has had sence the rebuild. Curious to see how this compares to what you guys have. I sent the intake off to be flow tested and it seemed close: http://www.myaudis4.com/2018/02/04/subaru-airbox-maf-flow-testing/ maf_scalings.csv

Are you selling these yet? Because yes please!

Note that the values I poseded were for my set of injectors. As they are all modified and binned, the scaling value in particular will vary from set to set. Granted you set flows 5% more than mine did, so it should tend rich instead. What load range was the lean spot in? What did you fuel learning values look like? The romraider injector tuning tool is a nice starting point, but it'll be off by ~5-10%. You can use the Airboy spreadsheet to finalize it. You can also use Mafscaling to get some insite on what's going on as well. Also your MAF accuracy matters. I have a "golden" scaling of the stock box you can try if needed. It was verified vs a flow bench. Injector tuning (beyond the low pulsewidth non-lienar stuff) is one of the simplest tuning exercises on our cars so you can totally DIY it. It's just a slope and intercept (y=(S)x+L), where slope is your injector Scaling and the y-intercept is Latency.

Yes but the outback’s rear suspension also has an almost 1in body lift. If you want to run spacers in the back, you need to put a spacer on the bumpstop as well. Not super hard to fab up as the stock one has a pretty long threaded section. Just pull it off and stack some washers under it. 59N/mm or ~335lb Wagon/sedan have the same spring rate, but the wagon one is ~10mm longer.

Preload is spring displacement with no shock displacement. So the spring has 138mm of displacement left when at full droop, and but the shock still has 133mm as it’s not compressed at all. My numbers are for swift 8k springs on a Legacy spec shock running just slightly lowered than stock. And about 200lb of crap in the hatch between the audio system and spare parts. For your outback, a swift 10” 400lb spring has 131mm recommended /167mm max displacement. Presuming your Eibach is the same, and the Outback shock isn’t more than 25mm (1in) longer than the Legacy one, you should be fine. If you have adjustable spring perches don’t run spacers on the rear of our cars. The bumpstops are on the body, and you’ll max out the shocks before fully engaging them with spacers. My rear Koni’s has the spring perch knocked off of them just from running 3/8in saggy butt spacers. The epic springs blocked out before the bump stops when going across a rut in the road causing complete failure in the rear. Spacers are OK on the front though, as the bump stop is in coaxial with the shock.

There isn't a performance decrease, but you may loose travel. It'd depend on your ride height, and thus how much preload you have. I have 9in springs in the rear at 448lb (8K) rate and 148mm of displacement before blocking out. Bilstine rear Legacy speck shocks have can displace 133mm, and I run ~10mm of rear preload. Thus the springs still have 6mm to go when the shocks top out. If I went 10in springs, what would that add? Well the linear range of the springs is only 117mm, so it's getting progressively stiffer during that last 26mm (1in) of travel on the 9in. The 10in would extend the linear range of the spring to 125mm making only the last 18mm of travel unlinear, but at that point one's probably well into the bumpstop anyway. It would also add 0.5lbs of unsprung weight per side. So all that said, if you Eibach springs are anywhere close to my swift springs you're probably good with the 10in.

Well that makes me want to order the NKGs you found and sell mine on NASIOC before they have issues. That’s a crazy high failure rate! Were they all hard fails or were they still partially working?

Yesterday I noticed the car was running lean up top. A few weeks ago I cleaned and refreshed the MAF electrical connections, and even just plugging/unplugging the maf caused covertrussian's scaling to change. So I went out tonight and did some quick MAF scaling checking. Yep, about a 4% error up top just as expected... I'll apply 65% of the correction factor above ~4 v and try it again. This put the number more in line with what I was expecting. Also looking at the logs there is an odd leaning out around 5600 RPM. From there MAF stays flat, but it richen back up by redline. So the Grimmspeed intake may have some sort or resonance in this range. Ideally one would fix this with the MAF-MAP compensation table, but in the early cars this maxes out at 3600RPM. Thus one can only fix the fueling error using the per cylinder injector comp tables and have to live with the timing error. It's only 1.5% error, but annoying none the less. I added 0.008 fuel target offset to the last two columns in the 5600 RPM rows on all cylinders so we'll see if that helps.

Thanks for the offer. I have one from a junk yard car already as it got stuck once before. I just finally have motivation to swap it. Also today: doing some pulls after installing the Aquamist check valves shows the actual AFR hitting the commanded target AFR almost dead on. This SHOULD NOT HAPPEN WITH THE SYSTEM ON as the ECU has no idea the meth injection system is there. You have to offset your open loop fueling map by the same amount your system is injection (~0.6 AFR in my case) to set the actual final fueling target you want to run. So ether I have a fuel pressure issue (not super likely) or my MAF is reading ~5% low. It's stubbornly maxing out just under 300g/sec, so maybe there is a pre-turbo leak somewhere letting in an extra 15g/sec of air. Yay, something else to figure out.

Today: installed check valves on my Aquamist nozels. There is enough pressure delta between the two jets that it was draining at part throttle, leading to inconsistent injection. Also tuned the gauge range a bit and came to the conclusion I need to raise the boost level it kicks in at, as with “6” bars at full flow it’s off the bottom of the chart when it starts up. I can’t pull timing or fueling until I get the failsafes “safe”, so the system has been causing me to LOOSE power for the last year. But it has protected the motor from the 22psi spikes during shifts, so it has that going for it.. Also the drivers side window switch broke while at the car wash. I got it to close again with some messing with but it’s probably no safe to lower again until I swap the switch pack out.

You just introduced me to a very bad website Do you have the lengths and terminal sizes handy for all of our cables? I'm probably going to have some made now that I've found this. And add in a second fuse box for all of my accessories. They have a pretty sweet fuse box configurator on there, and some of them can take high amperage fuses.

They are the Ruthenium version of the SILFR6B8 plugs used in the '10+ GT. NGK somehow convinced Subaru that the new tip design was worth while for them to use it as the OEM plugs. I run SILFR6B8's in my '06, didn't notice any negatives at least. Ruthenium is supposed to last longer. No real advantages past that.

https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/4235

Wait, you had a second black carpet? I would have bought that from you when I got the sunroof! If Tehnation doesn't want it, I'll take it.

rhino6303, I wouldn't trust the autozone guy with his hand held tester that much. There is a lot that might not show up on that. Core issue: what is the electrical system voltage under cruse? AP or Romraider can tell you. If it's more than ~14.5V start tracing issues with the alternator or it's reference voltage source. It could also still be the battery. If the cells could be massively out of balance, if so the good cells are overcharging and thus cooking. With a high quality AGM battery (oddisy ot the like) it cans till test good on the parts store tools as they are so much stronger anyway.

Today: Met up with Infosecdad to buy some parts off his donor OBXT. His car is gorgeous! It kind of made me ashamed to park my scratched dented pant falling off interior cracking wagon next to his. I've done literally zero cosmetic work to my car in the 9 years I've owned it and it showed compared to his. On the way up I realized tuning the EWG on hot summer night on urban side roads wasn't the BEST idea in the world... I couldn't get the thing on EWG boost without massive spiking. Going too slow resulted in massive integral windup and overboosting once at 100% IWG duty cycle. Too fast with hot header and sub 80F air resulted in insta-spool and again massive overboost. Going to go mess with turning up the "D" gain to see if I can use that to tame spikes. The engine took the 21.5 psi spikes like a champ, but that level of boost will eat the 5EAT in short order.

It’s the OEM BNR actuator bracket with the actuator cut off. Later non-vf40 based BNR turbos are slightly different than everything else so I wasn’t able to find another bracket that fit. The standard Subaru ones were quite different, as were the Mamba/Kinguana style ones.

Last night I swapped the Mamba wastegate actuator spring from the “10PSI” to “14PSI” spring. And checked the figment of the Turbosmart twin port actuator that’ll eventually replace it. Spring change IWG75 TP Fit test I’m getting the sneaking suspicion the $110 wastegate open box actuator is going to cost more than the $170 new one once this gets done... it didn’t come with the side fitting and the rod it a bit long before the threaded portion starts. The actuator rod I had bent for the Mamba won’t fit ether as the Turbosmart is a higher percussion deal for sealing and the shaft diameter is slightly different. Will likely need to build a mounting spacer to get more rod length to preload this thing. Anyway, on the Mamba actuator, the “14psi” black spring is far from 14psi. It’s actually acting just like the old spring, but with the boost curve offset vertically by 1.5psi. As in at IWG boost it now acts like a 10psi spring then creeps up to ~14psi at redline. It did pull the curve up at 100%WGDC just enough that I can run a flat 17psi under EWG control. Not optimally by any stretch, but it’s getting there Turbo is stubbornly not wanting to flow more than 300g/sec and VE is going off a cliff above ~6000rpm. So the smaller EWG uppipe May be restricting things more than the EWG is bleeding off. Which is odd with such a small turbo.

Not OP, but the same thing that makes everyone with this plan think it’s s good idea: sub $1000 JDM longblocks on eBay.

Depends on the use. For something like a battery connection, no you don't want to use a dielectric grease. The battery post and terminal are typically lead (or a minimal post is), and they actually deform into each other to increase the contact area. This is important as the current draw is 100's of amps during starting, and you need more contact area. In this case, dielectric grease will prevent the terminal and post from fully making contact increasing resistance to the point that it's an issue. For mechanical connections that are low current (think sub 10A) and particularly multi conductor, the contact area is quite small. Just a single minute line or even a single point. Here the nonconductive nature of dielectric grease is your friend! The connectors will mechanically displace the grease at that point of contact so it wont be any worse than it would be otherwise, but any grease that gets between the connectors won't cause leakage currents. Which would be SUPER bad for a maf where 0.01V matters. The reason you use grease is to seal out moisture and air. The connectors are plated with an anti corrosion coating from the factory, so they don't need to do it. The problem is when a connector is connected/disconnected multiple times that coating is worn away. Then you have to mechanically remove the corrosion, which further removes what's left of the coating. The grease is used to prevent moisture and excess air from reaching the now bare metal and corroding it.

Cleaned and retensioned the MAF connector terminals. Used the same method covertrussian did here http:// https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/covertrussians-05-lgt-build-thread-218363p95.html but with a diamond tip terminal cleaning set. Then filled them with dielectric grease. After that I attempted to remediate the Grimmspeed cold air intake heat soaking like crazy and not being exactly cold air. The aluminum tube heats up as it’s soaking in the hot air coming off the radiator, so the reflective tape heat shielding and fender well sealing I’ve done doesn’t do much. This is a reflective bubble wrap which will provide a real heat barrier. Unsure how effective this will be, but in a short test the temp rise was lower.

Um... https://www.grimmspeed.com/top-mount-intercooler-turbo-outlet-hose-subaru-08-14-wrx-05-09-legacy-gt/

A few days ago I did some EWG tuning and noted that boost wasn't exactly controllable still. Even with the EWG in a 4-port configuration it wasn't able to reach the target boost. My theory was the 12PSI spring on the Mamaba internal wastegate wasn't exactly a 12PSI spring, and thus blowing open I realized that I never tested the IWG at just WG boost, I had only tested it with hybrid boost control in play. So I set the initial/max WGDC to 0% in the ECU and set the spool up threshold to on the EBC to 19PSI locking it out. So boost is stabilizing around 8PSI, then creeping up to 13psi in 3rd by 6500 rpm. That creep portion is exactly why I put in the EWG in the first place. The 8PSI is the issue, as the rule of thumb on WG actuators is they are fully blown open by ~2x spring pressure. Thus even at 100% WGDC the IWG is cracking open and negating the benefits of the EWG. I found a rebranded Turbosmart twin-port internal wastegate actuator on eBay for a reasonable price so I scooped that up. Using it up in twin-port mode boost will actually be forcing it closed when the ECU switches over to 100% WGDC. Thus the EBC and EWG can have total control over the system. Edit: I also programmed in the Finale Base Fueling memory address into BTSSM on the tablet. I did a lot of tuning work on the intake about a year ago, but now it looks like it's a bit off. With Meth off, the ECU was targeting ~11.0 but the AEM gauge showing 11.2. Looks Like I get to redo that mess once I redo the MAF connectors.