utc_pyro

Figure it might be time to post some of my toys as I'm trying to sell my car and leave the community. This was the latest 300 BLK build: I'm hoping the Turbo-K for this thing gets out of jail before I move. Pending 4/20

I'm moving and we have too many cars Plus I can dump an entire storage unit that is mostly spare parts for the legacy if it goes. And the wife was mentioning ordering a Model Y for me to drive, and that would very much require this thing to be gone lol

I went digging for it the other day, but I cant find the write up I though I did here. I'd send the intake to the "My Audi S4" guy, here is his writeup on testing it: https://myaudis4.com/2018/02/04/subaru-airbox-maf-flow-testing/ He also did a pressure test, but didn't publish that. Then I did some addition testing with some differential pressure sensors wired up to the TGV position sensors. I think those are buried in one of Covertrussian's threads, but I cant find them.

I keep getting this thing ready to sell, and it keeps reminding me why I put all the pain into it in the first place. Just buttoned up the interior from swapping the frankenstine modified 2008 radio with a 2009 HK one, using the speaker level outputs strait into the MS8 just like the OEM amp. Wish I'd done this years ago, it sounds amazing now What's the going rate on these things right now anyway? I'm seeing from $1500 to $12K

Keep in mind the values Les used in that thread were "typical" values. It's not unusual to see VF52/VF48's pushed into the low-mid 300's with enough supporting mods. The "bang for the buck" isn't there though, it's more money efficient to follow the recommendations he lays out and just go with a bigger turbo.

I sent a stock intake off to get tested a few years back, it's actually fairly restrictive over ~200g/sec. If I remember correctly it was almost 2PSI of restriction around the 300g/sec airflow mark (VF52 ish). THAT SAID: changing it wont gain you much on the stock turbo, and you MUST tune it at the same time to correct the MAP scaling. Otherwise congrats, you need a new motor (ask me how I know....). The intake will basically let your turbo run a lower boost ratio, requiring less drive energy from the exhaust, which really isn't a huge factor until you start choking out the exhaust housing/turbine.

I drove it for the first time in 3 months. Getting it ready to sale so I reversed some of the crazy hybrid boost control stuff I was experimenting with, and prepped the system to just run the external waste gate full time by upping the internal wastegate spring to 18psi. Guess I didn't realize how much the IWG was leaking with a 14PSI spring, because even with a full PID controller on the EWG it was hitting 20PSI in 2nd and tripping the overboost cut. 19PSI in 1st was stable, but the front end would break traction. In the dry. It feels as fast as our tesla now, so it's go that going for it I guess? It's going to need quite a bit of turning to get it "sellable". I probably can put some more timing into it and pull some fuel as well, even overboosting like crazy it wasn't knocking.

Today: I installed a spare bumper I had painted 5 years ago (lol), front lip, and finished up the grill and grill mounted fogs. Last week I cleaned up the JDM headlights and fixed the LED DRL’s. I’m finishing up projects on the car and getting it cleaned up enough to sell it. We bought a model 3 and getting back in this loud thing is just irritating. I wouldn’t mind keeping it as the Home Depot run car, but it’s just too loud and smelly in comparison. I thought about parting it out, but My garage is too short to get the engine out and driveway too steep to safety remove the carcass if I pulled the $$$ suspension and breaks.

Still need... As BBS's like this are kind of dieing in the days of Facebook, is there some off-site Facebook or Reddit group that's good to post these kind of request? Turbo Legacy GT/OBXT's are getting pulled off the road every day now as the values have gotten low enough they arent often worth fixing (unless you love them), so these kind of parts have to exist somewhere. And no, that somewhere isn't Nigeria johnrandy835.

Asking him why he's using a Nigerian ISP shuts him up really quick lol.

Looking for a Cobb catted automatic downpipe. The cat has completely failed in my CNT, and the belmoth cat location is interfering with my EWG anyway. So someone please save me from the fumes Can pickup around the south east if you can meet me at your local general avation airport, or would prefer shipping to 37408.

Quick poll. Would anyone be interested in a device that can control things (exhaust cutouts or whatever) based on SI-Drive state? I had someone ask me about doing such, and I already have something sitting around that can kind of do it with diffrent code. The question is do I just hand make one for the person, or would there be enough demand to do a real production run of them? It works based on CANBUS messages the computers send out, so it can be programed to do all sorts of stuff. IC sprayer at full throttle, overboost alarms, aux fans, boost cut during AT shift, whatever. And the 05-06 cars do have a canbus that's fairly trivial to tap into, it just doesn't have SI-drive or it exposed at the ODB-II port.

It's in the '05 ROM (I used them to find my '06 ones). He just needs to add those definitions.

Let me throw out a diffrent option: 06-07 WRX 2-pots for the rear. They have more torque than brenbos, and can be used with the OEM rear rotor/parking break. You can get remanufactured ones for ~$100 each, adapter brackets for $200 (same as pre-08 rear bremos) and just paint them gold to match your fronts. This is the setup I've been runnign the last three years (Brembo 4-pots in the front, WRX 2-pots rear) and I'be been extreamly happy with it.

id1050x's idel fine, they have low latency and fairly linear low pulse width flow. Much better than any of the modified OEM injectors ouot there (most 850cc's and lower).

Drool So, um, can you run variables like ride height diffreances, lips, ect?

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/study-hood-scoop-effectiveness-and-intercooler-airflow-262041.html?t=262041 Let me plug my IC airflow test thread. It has some real data on flow in the scoop.

Link to where he provides that? I’m willing to pay to play, but Cobb won’t add the stupid tables I need to keep the trans from eating itself.

Someone actually made progress on that? I’ve seen several people make attempts (including our very own NSFW) but never anything functional. You have to move the tables into RAM upon boot and modify every bit of code that references them, which getting the tool chain set up to even do is a huge lift. Though if anyone can make progress on it it’s you!

Which ELH did you go with?

Are these Ohlins any different than the R&T’s we can get new? It looks like the body is built into the mounting, which would fix the short travel issue the R&T’s have.

Most lowering springs have a rate only 10% higher than stock. That's not enough to cause major issues.

They aren’t exactly rebrands, but they use parts from the same OEM bins. Those bins contain different quality/performance levels and they can change/QC the dampening. I think FA’s also come with swift springs which have been objectively tested as better than the generic black Taiwanese ones, but BC also offers them as an option. I will say this though: any OEM that sells a kits for our cars with a softer rear than front spring has done very very little R&D beyond making sure it fits.

Anyone running these care to post logs? MAF IAT, Airflow, load, boost, and engine speed allong with a list of any airflow effecting mods are usefule when comparing turbos. Post IC IAT would be useful as well, but you can kind of imply that by boost vs rpm vs MAF though.

They have been discontinued for at least 8 years. Epic Engineering had another run commissioned under their brand, but they are also long gone. STI pinks are the closest still avalible.