utc_pyro

I’ve always painted my pipes first, which seems to prevent any external rusting at least. Jet Hot, Cerakote (Grimmspeed OEM coating), and even VHI flameproof rattlecan paint do a pretty good job as a rust preventative measure under wrap. My issue with the DEI stuff not just it degrading, but doing a crappy job of minimizing both radiant and convective heat transfer. The radiant heating you can clearly see with a FLIR camera, and convective you can tell because spool is crap unless you’ve been on it in the last 20 seconds. I’ve been looking at the Heatshield Products Header/Exhaust Armor line for recovering my Tomei headers. Any thoughts on this stuff? It’s a fiberglass blanket with an aluminum backing.

With Pigtail Without pigtail (crimp) <- what I used Amazingly good vampire taps I put a switch inline to disconnect the data pin while the car is getting emissions checked. If you add a filter cap you can still flash with that hooked up. You only need to extend three wires: power, ground, and k-line. On finding the flakey ground, the service manual is your best bet. Trace the ground for the things that are failing on the wiring diagrams, then look at the grounding diagram. If they share a common lug, there is another diagram that roughly shows were they are located.

Some people have found a lot of noise in the k-line pin as it branches to a lot of modules (especially in ‘05’s as it goes under the passenger side seat). The cap was between the k-line pin and ground to try and eat some of the noise. Your issue sounds like a bad ground for sure. If you’re lucky the bolt just came loose, if not it may be breaking at the connector. I added a second ODB connector up under the dash with an Openport perminatly attached. ODB connectors have a rated life of less than 1000 connections, and swapping thing around a lot tuning/flashing can quickly reach that. You can get a pack of posi-taps and a pigtailed port for less than $15

Yep, know that. I have some of their stuff on my intake. My question was regarding the works/doesn’t between their stuff and DEI wrap.

Care to share details? I need to rework my all the shielding when I swap the up-pipe with the EWG one. The DEI “titanium” (basalt) wrap I have on the ELH doesn’t seem to be doing much.

There isn't really a reason to fear running IDC's into the high 90%'s or low 100%'s as long as that only happens on the coldest days you encounter. The ECU IDC peramiter includes injector dead time, so 100% is more like 94% on other platforms. I hit ~105% on my stockers without any leaning out before I swapped to DW740's. Then went form DW740's to ID1050X's not due to needing better flow, but due to having defined low pulse width correction tables while I was chasing a stumble/low speed AFR stability issue (injectors helped, but wern't the issue). The published ID1000 data is excellent though, and due to their popularity most tuners have a set of maps already developed for them handling tip-in and such. Thus as M.Spank says, they are pushing everyone to them because they make their lives easier. They might sell is as safety or headroom, but in reality it just makes them more money.

As unclemat stated, most of the fluid sensors are a single peace toward the measured fluid. There isn't much of a way for them to break off unlike things like IAT sensors. I'd be more worried about external leaks. Also the oil galley may be more accurate than the pan, as it's showing the working temperature when it's lubricating the motor. It’s after the oil cooler/heater, but before the super hot turbo oil. The pan temperature will likely lag a bit during warmup, and show higher during operation. If you follow the oil path, the front plug is more or less right above the output of the pump. So if you wanted the MOST accurate setup you might want to put the sensor in the front galley, and a pressure sensor in the rear. Or even better, use a combo sensor in the front one. If you're interested in the combo sensor deal I've been contemplating building an interpreter module that would drive the OEM pressure switch output (coded flashes of oil light) and feed the TGV input for logging. This might make me get off my rear and build a prototype.

The JDM lights use a really soft sealiant, you don’t even need to bake them to open them. There is no reason to be afraid of prying them open to adjust something, you can do it in less than an hour. Adjusting them how you propose really won’t work because they project much wider than your car. Thus your passenger side light will still blind oncoming cars. Edit: speaking of this, I need to go take mine apart and see why the passenger side light stopped working in the last week...

I'm not sure what fotofan was trying to achieve there, the shield and projector are identical between the drivers and passengers side. So that really did nothing. You really have four options: Flip the JDM shield - This causes things to be out of focus Use the USDM halogen shield. You loose some width and again focus isnt perfect. Make a custom curved shield out of a coke can or the like. If you have the skill this is the best performing option. It's an option that requires a lot of sub mm cutting and bending skill, patience, and in-depth understanding of optical physics. I have the laster, but not the former two. Use the adapters I designed and drop in an off the shelf aftermarket projector.

I went and looked at my AVCS map and it’s already at 25* in the area I get stumble (.8-1.2g/rev 2000-3000 RPM). Maybe that is too much advance?

Yes those will fit.

Yep they are garbage. One of my ball joints went bad about 300 miles in, the other is starting to make noise. Traildogck mentioned in another thread someone local to him had one fail catastrophically while driving. So i'm terrified that's going to happen any time I drive my car (roughly 10 miles once or twice a week). Going to have them and the arms replaced next month as part of a total suspension overhaul. Going back to my SpecB arms with whiteline bushings and roll center kit.

‘08-‘14 WRX/STI are the same as us, search for those hoses. That said, there are disadvantages of going silicon. They weep over time. I’m running an ACDelco rubber top hose, with the original bottom still. Hose clamps up top, OEM clamps on the bottom. No issues to speak of.

A warm out ball joint can cause vibrations. That is what lead to me swapping in these arms the RocAuto arms which had defective ball joints out of the box.

It mounts into the body of the car just like ours. This picture is from a drivetrain/suspension model. There is kind of a frame holding everything together instead of the body. They had one of these in the lobby of their HQ when I was there back in 2014.

I’m on Tomei ELH, so even easier to add the EGT to. I considered it when i put everything on, but it was SUPPOSED to be a simple rebuild with a new turbo and ELH added while everything was out. Not this never ending money pit science project. So why haven’t I done it so far? Lack of a garage or private driveway to drop the headers, lack of a welder to put in the bungs, and lack of disposable income for the 4-Chanel thermocouple logger. If I could find someone local willing to donate a driveway and welder for a day I could probably scrounge up for the logging hardware.

I’m not sure if the theory of this being caused 100% by resonance holds true. I plumbed the fuel pressure regulator reference to the BOV line, studded was still there. I replaced my fuel pressure regulator and dampers with a Radium setup, stutter was still there. I replaced the fuel rails with Radium ones along with ID1050X’s, two radium pulse dampers, and all rubber hose and it’s still there. At least on my car it seems to corrotlate with short term AFR correction overshooting. I think this is becaus the per cylinder compensations no longer match, but I don’t have a 4-channel EGT to try and fix that.

The AD converter is actually 0-5V on the rear O2 just like the other analog inputs. I think the front O2 is the only one with special voltage ranges hardware wise. TGV’s were used in the case because if you delete them they are doing nothing for the ECU. Typically people don’t deleat the rear O2 as often, as it causes fun questions at emissions testing and was hard to take 100% out of play until a few years ago. Then Cobb put out an update slowing you to completely disable it, and the figured out the same on opensource.

So you can keep your rear O2 sensor to help with fueling corrections?

So are you basically saying we should make lower load AVCS match what we typically do at higher loads?

Won’t that break inner thread links and google search results? There is a lot of good info on here, but it’s difficult to dig though with the built in search.

Actuator was sitting on my kitchen table, WG disconnected flapping in the exhaust flow. The newer BNRs are supposedly 8cm like the Taiwanese Turbos, so that’s why I was curious.

Interesting. Out of curiosity, how much boost did the Kinugawa 16G make with the wastage disconnected? I ran my BNR without the actuator for a week while waiting on parts, and it was still hitting 12psi at upper RPM's.

Toast turbo being the one in your profile pic?

Wiring is diffrent. You can modify your USDM bulb sockets to fit, or make a new wiring harness.