utc_pyro

True. And for simi-off the shelf offerings just about any '08-'14 WRX/STI front housing will work and the rears can be be adapted from normal bolt mounted shocks if you change the bushing to 14mm ID. Also add to the list Fortune Auto and ICS for the tiwanesse guts but OK ish options we can still get. In the cheap crap caragory I think raceland, godspeed, megan, OBXracing, ect are all still avalible. Those places use the same damper for every single one of their kits and just use bolt on parts kits to make them fit whatever platform, so they should be avalible for a while for the stance kids. Edit: I think JDM STI Pinks are still avalible new as well spring wise. I'm seeing them still listed on exporter websites.

Add Ohlins to the list, we can still get them.

Well THAT would do it on the rear. [emoji15] But I’m going to have to take apart both the fuel system and meth injection system just to get to the connector to check the front... Also if any of you ever have to price out sensors: Bosch (who made our ABS system) sensors are about $25/each, at the dealer they are $55, and at a general auto parts store they are $150+ Edit: it’s all working now! Cleaning the front ryno6303 suggested fixed that one

Those codes didnt match, but the ones on this thread did. C0106 - Rear Left C0108 - Front Left C0115 - Catch all code for SS issues So how does one tell if it's the sensor, or the magnetic ring on the bearing causing the problem?

Last night :All four wheel bearings finally done, plus coilovers adjusted 6-7mm lower. Both fronts had some noise, and one of the rears was really bad. Today: drove to the dealer to get some break parts. Car is finally quiet, but.... FML. Is there any way to see which speed sensor isn't reporting properly?

Dom 1.5 would get you there, but your transmission won't live through the experiance unless the torque curce is extreamly conservative. +/-300WHP is considered about the "normal" limit for the 5EAT, but it's really a torque limited device. So if you want to go down the big turbo route you'll have to clamp torque down low at or below your current level while adding it up top. Your car wont FEEL any faster if you do this (you preceve torque), but it'll extend your power band to redline ish. Edit: Also you'll NEED to be open source tuned so you can tell the TCU that you're making that additional power. Cobb does not have access to that table.

Apparently PB blaster brand penitrate is the key. Ran through an entire can of Liquid Wrench trying to get these things out, and as soon as I switched they came out. So the last two days went like this: Whaling on them with a hammer chizelign the sides of them with a screwedriver Putting a bolt back into the housing part ways then waling on it with a hammer heating up the knuckles with a propane torge untill paint starts graying (x5) Using an entiry can of Liquid Wrench on them Breaking a wood chizzel hammering it between the bearing housing and backing plate Whaling on them with a slide hammer for half an hour using a metal chizzel around the bearing housing/backing plate interface Applying REAL PB Blaster And then a little more slide hammering and chizzeling. :spin: With all of that abuse I'm worried about the health of the ball joints. I found this Astro Pneumatic Subaru Ball Joint Puller for $27 which appears to work like the $75 Company 23 tool. Ordered one just incase. Hopefully the one last rear one wont be that bad.

Struts are back in (was using this as an opertunity to change springs). Slide hammer obtained. I've heat cycled each hub probably 5 times with a propane torch, and given then at least a dozen goes with PB blaster. These things are stuck TIGHT. I'm about to the point of ordering new knuckles, but I'm worried about getting the ball joints out from the old ones. They are a super pro roll center correction kit, so not cheap to replace if I kill one.

Ok, so how the hell do you get the wheel bearings out of the knuckes? I managed to get one of the rears off, but even after beating on the fronts for two hours they are still stuck hard.

BCA Bearing WE60548 Front - Ebay Deal Link - MFN BCA Bearing WE60998 Rear - Ebay Deal Link - MFN

First of the BCA wheel bearings got here today (ebay vendor shipped them all sepratly, by diffrent shipping companyes ). Unfortnatly they are NTN USA made instead of NTN japan, but the OEM ones are also NTN USA so they probably the same. Just for $73 instead of $250 from Subaru. The lip where the wheel centers on them is coated in some sort of high-temp paint just like the OEM's. Most of the other aftermarket options are just bear metal which can cause wheels to stick. Now to wait for the other three to show up. And the dealership to get the rest of the parts in.

You're overcomplicating your failsafes. We have a built in failsafe function in the ECU: Ground the green plug (same you use for flashing). It back out all of the dynamic advance, cuts boost to zero, and reverts to the high knock fueling map. Your fuel pump will sieze within a week. It's NOT compatable with water at ALL. There are hundreds of sub $50 options on ebay if you're trying to go cheap: https://www.ebay.com/itm/bayite-12V-Diaphragm-Water-Pump-1-5-GPM-5-6-L-Min-100-PSI-12-Volt-DC-Fresh-Wa/223673870034?hash=item34140066d2:g:KMIAAOSwqPddhTK4

Yep, because the newer FXT was the only Japan made car to use breaks big enough to need it sold here. Outback/Legacy are USA made, and the STI uses something completely diffrent. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/en_b13/type_96/brake_system/front_brake/illustration_2/ Remember kids, Subarus are Legos. The modern global platform is STILL based on our cars from roughly the b-pillar forward. And FHI is poor and reuse the same parts as often as possible. So cross check Japanese/American versions (ends in an "A") of everything to see if you can get a better deal.

Four NTN wheel bearings, four wheel nut, new mounting bolts, new front dust shields (they are in bad shape), and a 32mm socket ordered . Now what else am I missing that I need to do while I have all that appart... We just got word that we probably wont be in the office again until June 1st, so if it takes a few days no big deal. Note for any one swapping dust shields on our cars, 26290AG010 is about a third of the cost of the one the parts catalog suggest, and it's the same thing just made in Japan instead of the USA.

The noise chances when turning, but it's not what you;d expect. It more changes in tone and gets QUIETER while turning. In tight turns at low speed it also has a trick where the rotors will touch the dust shield or the guides on the calipers will start rubbing across the groves in the rotors. But any shop that's looked at them has said they were fine. I'm almost at the point of saying screw it replace all 4. There is at least some noise from three of the four while air driving.

Just found a YouTube video where they did it by disconnection the front strut. I've been wanting to change the helper springs on my PSS's anyway which would be easy to do at the same time, so maybe I just bite the bullet and do the front one as well. Guess the only question now is do I touch the front one that WASN'T making any noise.

Checked 1 and 3, both were fine. Didn't directly check 2 but there isnt any rotational play between the rear wheels and when I put the stereoscope on the rear diff and didn't hear anything there other than a slight hum. Didn't check for in-out play in any way though, and with the more extreme angle at full droop any minor issues in the outer joint would lead to noise like observed. The car is really loud inside now on the highway, almost like a window is open, which lead to this testing. Symptoms SEEM to match, except there is ZERO play in any of the hubs. Found some NTN (OEM brand) replacment bearing on eBay for $55 each so I wont be out much if this dosen't fix it. I'm hoping the front driver side isn't also bad as I have no interest in separating rusty ball joints. I wonder if there is a way to get the hub off without doing that.

Yesterday, but: [ame= ] [/ame] Wheel bearing? There isn't any play, but this also does not sound like the breaks grinding ether. Ordered the parts to replace it. Also the ABS computer is now all pissed off because one of the front wheels decided to stop spinning during the testing. Need to figure out how to reset that....

The TGV rod holes aren't great for this as it's hard to do maintenance on your jets. Particularly the one right next to the turbo. If oyu think you can make it work I want to see it though. The FXT fuel pump and pressure regular isnt a great idea unless you run 100% meth, water will kill them. 100% meth isnt great for charge air cooling, it's more a think DI cars do when they max out their fueling. A standard sureflow pump isnt expensive and has a built in pressure regulator. Industrial sprayer tanks are also not expensive. Direct port has been done on WRX's and STI's, and what they did on the WRC cars. It works best if you do it in combination with at least one main post IC jet. That will give you the best pre-cooling and the best in cylinder cooling. The best spot for the jets would be in the intake manifold itself, ether drill and tap as is or use plastic weld rods to build up areas and install bungs.

K&N RX-4990DK prefilter on an AEM 21-203D-XK dryfilter. It worked really well for three years even with the fog lights removed to allow direct air to the filter, and a LOT of water gets in there during heavy rain. Never had MAF issues until February when I guess it finally degraded. They are only rated for a year, so it lived a lot longer than expected. Oddly when my MAF was maxing out at 350g/sec the AFR's were staying stable (though offset by a little). Turbo maxes around 330, so probably need to raise the limit.

Cleaned out the garage enough to pull the car into it the first time. The car didn’t really fit, but it was pleasant out so no issues. Changed oil and the Grimmspeed intake pre-filter as the MAF was maxing out in the rain. Then while looking for an exhaust leaks found this fun: The EWG input v-band appears to be leaking, and the whole thing looks roasted. This thing is a massive pain in the ass to get on/off with the catted downpipe so not looking forward to trying to fix it. Though at the same time I’m not sure what can cause these to leak like this? It would explain why I get so sleepy driving, this is right next to the outside air intake. Yay carbon monoxide poisoning...

It reduces pressure drop across that sharp 90* bend without having to fit flow directors into the pipe. Then the taper helps to smoothly accelerate the air before it goes into the turbo. Or at least that would be the theory without modeling it. I think they also designed them to take 3in I takes without the drop down to 2.5in at the coupler, but I’ve never seen someone hook it up like that. The large smooth bend that covertRussian has on his is obviously superior though. I just wonder about the sharp flow transition from 3in to 2.4 with that offset coupler. Not that one has much of a choice on a stock location turbo due to the way Subaru laid it out. Well, unless we can convince Covertrussian to try and build a rotated turbo setup and buy a 3in turbo compressor cover to test. Which I would totally toss some money in the pot for. Edit: I’d actually love to see a 3in stock location turbo cover test. Which they make one for our cars. Which I’d also be willing to toss some cash in for.

APS 3in hard inlet. It’s about $240.

harbor freight oil separators on the crank case lines going to the turbo inlet is the cheap fast test. Do they fill with oil? Piston it is. If not, turbo bearing.

If you're going to go down that path, use the alternator status output signal. It goes low when the alternator is running, and is in the OP connector already.