xt2005bonbon

Many people remove these as they can disintegrate and potentially mess up your turbo. They replace it with a 2.2kOhm resitor to avoid cel.

That's right. I have a bung there and a wideband on my shelves. Still have not installed it

Our cars has only two 02 sensors. The other sensor in the upipe is an EGT sensor. I actually think that the o2 sensor placed right after the turbo will be more accurate for tuning.

Just received my brand new heater core. What a cute little thing.. Also bought this. Hopefully it will help..

Don't rush too much though. Check and recheck, and re-recheck every single connector and stuff. At least that's what I do

The turbo will be different. The tune controls the opening of the wastegate so as to achieve your boost targets. I am pretty sure the turbo that came with this engine has different characteristics, performance, and wastegate actuator. Therefore, the wastegate tables, boost targets and other related tables would have to be adjusted for this different turbo. As for the CAI, are you reusing your MAF sensor?

I don't think a loose port would cause no cel info. Are you sure the port is loose? It could just be that the port is not securely affixed on that lower panel. Have a closer look.

do you know for a fact if your tuner has adjusted your MAF scaling? Also, I can't remember: do you have an aftermarket intake or stock filter?

You need a way to look at the ECU parameters, something like the BtSsm app so you can see what your fuel trims are. That would be very helpful.

Not sure about Gates. I've always used OEM parts for timing. As for the radiator, I first replaced it with a 'TYC 13091' back in 2019. 70$ shipped! I had the OEM one fail on both cars within a month of each other. Crazy! I still have that TYC radiator on one car and is working just fine. On the other car, I upgraded it to a Koyo.

Oh yeah, those as well. I got these too when I rebuilt mine.

You may want to get a new oil pump, oil cooler, thermostat, maybe water pump, timing belt kit (with OEM tensioner -- don't cheap out on that one!). If your radiator is still the original one, it may be time to replace it as well. They tend to split at the seam between the aluminum and plastic ends.

Have you been carefully comparing your actual AFR to your target AFR when MAF range is between, say 15 and 65 g/sec?

Is this a turbo outback? Have you checked for vacuum leaks?

Why didn't you put the intake manifold on it before putting the engine in? Your back is going to hate you a bit I think.

Been having a leak on my Radium AOS too, on the 'drain side'. Quite annoying.

I remember applying whatever the usdm manual said.

LOL. Sorry mate.

I think JMP is still at it. PM him. Site vendors, don't even know if we have any anymore . I just bought most of my stuff off eBay believe it or not (still genuine parts).

Glad to see you back! I went with a type RA block and it has been great. Almost 50K now. VF52 JMPed is a great option too. Still running stock injectors. You could always send yours for a cleaning. You may want to consider the cylinder 4 cooling mod. I also have a GS intercooler and am very happy with it.

I bled the system last week and tightened the brace a little more. I do admit that pedal response is a little better now.

What's wrong with it?

Thanks for the info. I am about to remove my cracked dash and replace it with a new one I have. Will also replace the heater core and clean any debris I can find on the evaporator core (fan is blowing weak with or without AC). In any case, trying to figure out in which condition I want to bring the car to the dealer for the airbag swap. I may bring it with the stuff you mentioned removed. Now, let's get back on topic :).

3500$!!! What the heck man. Yeah, you 'gave' it away that's for sure!

So, is the engine in??