hadvw

Ok, decided to bite the bullet and just go for it. Turns out the place I took the Grand Caravan to is a STAR Test station. Anyway, WOOHOO - I passed! In an out in approx 10 minutes. $40 later including certificate, and I'm all good. Definitely the NEW test (no sniffer). Mods (that would affect SMOG testing, there are some others) BNR16g DW650cc injectors gutted OEM DP catless UP (with EGT fix, IIRC, but also DTC disabled in the tune) hybrid TA/throttlehappy open source tune He took 1 or 2 quick peeks under the car, a quick peek under the hood, revved it a couple of times and checked for smoke, and all good. Wow, I can relax now, and be happy keeping my car for a few more years. I'm just starting to REALLY enjoy it now that it's old enough that I can drive it a little more like I stole it without worrying too much about breaking anything.. 10 years (almost 110K miles) is a little on the low side for a car these days, but not atrociously bad :-) Thanks to johnnyb from nasioc who confirmed that he passed a smog with a Cobb stage 1 tune, which gave me the courage to go try it. Such a load off my back! If anyone needs a place that's cheap and usually has no waiting (near Santana Row) with a coupon for $31.75 + $8.25 certificate, PM me..

After some more reading, I think I'll reflash my not-as-good AP1 based tune so that I keep the same CalID/CVN as previous SMOG test, and try to pass that way (after sensors are ready). If that doesn't do it, I'm SOL and will have to go back to stock. Most of that is easy, except for the injectors..

Just found this - can't imagine I've missed this for so long! 10 year old '05 wagon, only problem so far is radio reception. Will have to try soldering.. But, who knows about "looming disaster"..

Will probably be me.. My smog is due by Jan 18. I guess I could put stock pipes back on and adjust my 650cc tune to re-enable various CELs if needed..

True. I currently have gutted pipes (UP and DP), 650cc injectors and a bnr16g (and walbro). I've passed 2x this way with no issues. However, this time, they're doing the OBD2 scan, instead of the sniffer. As long as I can pass the scanner part, I know I can pass the visual. After I pass, I have a CNT DP ready to go in (and a grimmspeed as soon as it ships).. Yes, I know, I'll have to swap it out again in 2 years, but.. I think I can live with that..

Not that I know of. But, I'll be in the same situation in a week or two.. Trying to figure out what to do..

Sounds like the OBDII system said "not ready" due to not enough miles between ECU resets. Happened with our '08 Caravan 3 months ago (1st smog check) which really surprised me, since we had 600+ miles since the last ECU reset. But, a couple of tests weren't passing (Car gauge pro app confirmed this). After looking up drive cycle, I had to idle for 10-15 minutes at 2000 rpm, then drive with no accessories for 15 minutes, etc. An hour later, it was ready and passed during the re-test. My LGT is showing ready (and due for smog - just got the notice). Hopefully that's all it needs, and won't check for disabled CELs...

I have a (passenger side, I think) rear end clank/click too. Mostly noticeable over small bumps in a parking lot. As long as it's suspension (i.e. worst case, it eats tires) and not the rear diff spider gears or something - I'm ok with that. I already bought Moog endlinks (cheap via Rock Auto) to replace the totally-dead Perrin endlinks I bought used a few years ago..

I do see LGTs on a regular basis, but I'm usually pre-occupied with not getting into an accident during rush-hour and only see them very briefly.

Makes me glad I got my 16g BEFORE that. MUCH less worry about passing SMOG with something that has the proper labels vs. "BNR".

I guess that's the cool part - as long as it's mostly working, you should be able to print replacement parts for a bunch of things quite easily.. Buy "cheap" printer, print a bunch of upgrades ==> better printer..

Also, as per Grimmspeed, there will be an LGT specific kit, including splitter!

I had it happen briefly ('05 wagon) when my daughter played with the headliner cover and jammed something (I don't think this was the only problem). Rubber trim piece joining the front deflector and frame got stuck, and something snapped. Also ended up breaking one of the resin rods. When the front part of the resin rod connection jammed into the front of the track, it did this. After pulling out the front clip, it seems to work as before, except that the deflector no longer goes up and down, just stays down. I'm going to try to get a resin rod replacement (there's a TSB about this - search), and just leave it as is. I don't use the sunroof that much, and the deflector going up and down isn't worth $1K to me.. Anyone know if there's a cheaper fix for just the deflector?

Just curious - which shop?

Just to further elaborate: perhaps the new frame could take the louvers from the existing bezel/frame, and then add kind of a slot for the tablet to slide in from the top when removed? Maybe 1/2" thickness or so that we can pad with foam tape? And have the slot stick out 1/4-1/2" from each side? Not sure I'm being clear, but that was my idea, anyway. That way, I easily have a starting point for a tablet install and don't need a case for it plus L-brackets to mount it to "something". Basically, take off the vents, and add an "L" to each end facing inwards running from bottom to top, with a stop at the bottom. The first part of the L would be parallel to the vents, from front (of the bezel) towards the back, and then the second leg would be from outside to inside, so the L's face each other. I'll probably have to draw a picture, but the idea is: take out the whole bezel/vent frame, slide the tablet in from the top, maybe with a bit of foam since not all tablets are the same width, and then drill/cut holes into the L's where you need to get at stuff.

Where did you get $35 delivered?

Any chance to make: 1) a cheaper "info panel relocation bracket"? $100+ from japan seems a little insane 2) a cheaper double din console panel (i.e. a new version of the cubby frame that makes it easier to mount a tablet)? http://www.avojdm.com/product_info.php?cPath=26_54_60&products_id=108 Just some wild ideas.

Ok, so how does one get 4 hubs from Detroit Axle for under $120? I see them as $67/65 (front/rear) EACH on their website - that's $260 total. On Amazon, $95 for pair for fronts, $85 for pair of rear - $180 total. Better. Ebay: $95 for 2 fronts, $69 for 2 rears, $165 total or so. Got it. What's the installation procedure for the FRONT? The rear seems doable based on above instructions (I've done brakes/rotors several times). Any more difficult for front? Any special tools needed for either one? Special chemicals/lubricants? How easy is it to mess something up? Wouldn't mind doing all 4, since I'm getting random shaking while braking, and I suspect it's rusted old hubs + worn bearings at this point ('05 108K miles).

Well, either you have a clutch, or you don't. If you have a clutch, here we call that the "5MT" (5 speed manual transmission) - some later models have a 6MT. Otherwise, you have the "5EAT" (5 speed electronic-automatic transmission). Does that help?

So.. Is this something that could also be tried on old valve covers ('05, 107k miles) that have started leaking? Or is it just time to replace them at that point?

Aha! Wonder if that's why I keep getting vibration on my brakes when cold, and it eventually goes away when they heat up? Does that sounds like these bushings? Maybe I should just throw mine away and try to re-bed? Or a new set of rotors/pads? The brake shake/shimmy on this car has been the worst of any car I've driven. Not saying the braking power itself is that bad with the right pads, but just annoying as hell. A couple of times I've replaced rotors/pads just to try to cure it, and it's helped for a while, but it always comes back...

Thanks - good to know! Someone already checked my car awhile back and reported leaking valve cover gaskets, so I'm assuming that's what it is, but I wanted some corroboration that it could cause the smell.. But, I should probably also check the PS pump.

Thanks. I couldn't remember which thread this was on (saw it briefly). I have exactly the same issue, including the slight bit of smoke at times, and the bad smell - been using the recirculated air setting for the AC for months now... Great to have confirmation! Guess I'll get to working on the valve cover gaskets..

Don't think I could take the commute.. I work near 237/101. Don't know that much about Tracy though - I've only been "through" Tracy on my way to elsewhere

Yeah, I get that. We live next to my in-laws, which is great with small kids. Where have you relocated to?