hadvw

Wow, looks almost exactly like the "prototype" I worked up about a year ago! I think we found the same C-channels at Lowes! I think you even did the 1 C-channel inside another one like I did! Have you been sneaking around my garage?? http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/bolt-up-turbocharger-upgrade-119177.html?p=2921454 The only problem is: there is no clearance on the driver's side of the LGT layout to put the bolt that would go closest to the front. I kinda got distracted with lots of other stuff (and then rain!).. But, if the passenger's side (the one I have working) is the one that mostly fails, then I'll just put that part of my prototype onto my actual TMIC, and let it be..

Wouldn't/Couldn't 0xFFFF be, in essence, a NOP (i.e. no exception handler installed for this exception)?

You are correct: a nibble is half a byte (i.e. 4 bits). Often useful for embedded/control systems where you only have a few bits to set/unset..

I did my fair share of basic (TI Basic, TI Extended Basic, Atari Basic, Atari Basic XL, GFA Basic, Waterloo Structured Basic) back in the 80s and early 90s... Since then, mostly C/C++, Java, Tcl/Tk, shell and a bit of javascript. I'm sure I could figure out PBasic, if it's based on Basic..

I might have a connection at Renesas and a few other places (Tyco, etc), if there's a need for specific info that's not readily available. I work for Synopsys, and we sell our software to a bunch of the companies that make these chips...

Here's my position regarding this: -if I was 15 years younger (just out of university), I'd be all over this project, trying all kinds of things to help this along (I'm a programmer). Of course, I probably wouldn't own an LGT either Demographic for the LGT seems to be a bit older, more established than, say, WRX... -if I had embedded experience in this area, I'd contribute it -learning all the embedded stuff might not be as hard as I think, but I'd rather OVERestimate the difficulty than promise stuff and never get anywhere.. -as it is, I'm a husband/father of 2 young kids (2 and 4), and while I'd pay $250-500 for a good shift control system, these days, time is at an absolute premium, even moreso than $$$ (this was NOT the case 15 years ago) -I suspect there are several people in similar shoes: willing to pay, having skills that, while somewhat related, aren't an exact fit and don't have huge amounts of time to donate in order to improve the skills needed for this project -I know that GIAC tuning reverse-engineered the Passat Tiptronic shift system a few years ago (see here: http://www.giacusa.com/programs.php?mpid=222 ). Perhaps we can pay them a few $K to do one for us? Bottom Line: I'm VERY interested in a solution, and might be willing to kick in $200 to a fund (or pay more for a finished system), but I don't have time day-in, day-out to contribute to this. At least not without neglecting stuff that needs my attention much more. At the end of the day, my car still drives, and I NEED it as a daily driver.

I tried sending him an email, pointing him to this thread about a year ago, but never heard back. However, it probably wouldn't hurt to try again..

I've just finished doing my 2nd set of plugs, and IIRC, OEM didn't have anti-seize. And I certainly didn't put any on set #2. It came out just fine after approx 32-34k. Then again, no salt in CA may have something to do with it?

I believe you're allowed 1/4 inch difference in circumference between tires. I was VERY lucky that my (full-size) spare was exactly the right size when one of my tires developed a bulge..

I just did plugs for the 2nd time about a month ago. A couple of them got pretty hard to turn for a bit, but they did come out. Not sure exactly how hard "really hard" is for you. For me, I definitely couldn't turn them by hand (trying to turn the extension on the socket). Needed the ratchet for a bit after loosening them. Worked out ok. Not saying yours aren't cross-threaded...

Ok, it happened again last night. And I tried to pay more attention to it. It sounded exactly like when on previous cars I had a muffler bouncing off the rear trim on acceleration. Then it clicked: there's a bit of a dip on the onramp compared to coming off the turn, so I'm essentially flooring it in the middle of a dip, while turning right. And the sound is coming from the left, which is the most compressed side of the suspension. So, it sounds like my left muffler may be hitting the body/rear bumper. I did think it sounded like it was coming from the rear wheel at one time, but I couldn't imagine the rear wheel spinning/hopping without noticing some other symptoms such as a bouncing feeling. Has anyone else has rubbing/bouncing mufflers? I have Cobb sways (on soft) - could it be hitting those? I took a quick look in the dark yesterday, and it didn't look like it would hit the sways, but I'll take another look tomorrow for signs of rubbing. Then all I need is new/stronger hangers. That's very relieving - I think I figured it out. So, back to cracked/broken ringlands: if all you get (maybe) is knocking, why is it so bad? Does it drop compression (I would imagine so)?

Thanks for the info, TRSCobra! Will stick with the colder plugs!

So, what is the sign of a bad ring land? I'm starting to wonder if the following mean anything, or they're just random minor things not to worry about. Warning: I've recently diagnosed myself as a hypocardriac (I'm always thinking something's wrong with my car..) Background: '05 5EAT with BNRevo16g, DW650 injectors, Walbro (are they all noisy?), gutted UP/DP. Car has 74K, 10K with BNR mods, around 30k at stage 2 before that, etc.. No CEL, APv1 reports no DTCs at all in thousands of miles.. Will soon be doing: Killer B oil pickup, belts and pulleys (incl. timing belt). That's the reason I'm asking: if I need more extensive work, this is the time to figure it out.. Symptoms: -changed the plugs 1k miles ago. Old plugs (30k miles) seemed to be possibly carbon fouled. Old and new are LFR7AIX (one step colder) - I might go back to LFR6AIX for the next set. Plugs made no noticeable difference. -passed smog in CA before I did the plugs. Both values were around 30-50% of max allowed values. -hesitates/stumbles a bit when cold. Once revved up a bit or warmed up, fine -lumpy idle. Especially noticeable when cold - sometimes feels like it will stall if A/C is on when cold, but has never actually stalled. Even when fully warm, still lumpy. Can feel the car vibrate when it misses/stumbles. Could this be a tuning/injector issue? -runs great when starting from a stop, will hit 16-17 psi in 3rd, 20-21 in 4th, etc.. Will pull strong to redline. Cruising on the freeway, hit WOT and it takes off like a shot. Once in a while with 1/4 to 1/2 throttle, doesn't kick in as fast as I think it should, but WOT always makes it "go". -there's a particular onramp when leaving from work where I make a right-hand-turn (but not 90 degree turn, it's curved) to get onto the ramp. The ramp itself is mostly straight. I'm often coasting around 20-25 mph until I get on to the ramp. If I floor it at that point (not aligned with the ramp yet), I seem to get a reproducible "wump wump" sound that seems to be coming from the left side of the car. It happens 2 or 3 times, no more. I've had it happen maybe one other time when really getting on it. Unfortunately, things are happening pretty fast, straightening out the car, WOT, etc, it's hard to really pin things down. I'm wondering if this is tire spin/axle hop because the car is still turning somewhat at this point? Or if it's detonation/knock (something I've never really encountered before, not sure if I even know exactly what it sounds like)? Would a bad ring land cause detonation? Would a bad enough knock event register as a DTC? I'm afraid to try to reproduce it because I don't want to constantly be knocking. -last oil change, it was noted "may have a head gasket leak". Do we have 1 head gasket or 2? The only head gaskets I have experience with are inline 4s, where they would run really badly at idle, but when floored, they'd still run ok. That's why my idle stumble has me wondering - although it's been there since the BNR upgrade and hasn't really gotten worse. Thanks for any feedback. TL;DR - I freak out every time my car does anything slightly unusual. Maybe I should take rao's advice and never drive it again

What are the symptoms of "binding on turns"? I recently had a tire develop a bulge, and my spare (I traded 2 used RE92s for 1 used MPS A/S, same as the 4 I had). I went to get the spare shaved to match, and the guy said it was within 1/4". However, hypocariac me (always think something's wrong with my car ) is now wondering if I'm having issues due to this..

Seems weird.. I just did plugs, and only took out battery & air intake/maf air pipe/hose.

I have a VAG-Com cable.. However, I got tuned via ProTuner (stage 2.5: injectors, fuel pump, BNRevo16g, STi up). I don't have any knowledge (or time - it's my DD) to build a whole new opensource tune..

Anyone know if I could do this with my APv1? Can the Street Tuner software do it? Then again, I got ProTuned - can Street Tuner read ProTuner files? Can the v1 Street Tuner software still be found anywhere?

But if you do, put a pointer here so I can find it!

Wait, so if we picked up one of the "floating" valve bodies and shipped it to TransGo, they'd be willing to work their magic on it? Wish I knew more about who can do this kind of work around here.. I'd be all over that..

Did you try manually shifting the gears? I don't even mind the stock shifting for regular driving, as long as it would "SHIFT_RIGHT_(*&@#$_NOW" when I hit up/down, instead of waiting for a consensus from the characters in Herman's Head..

Any idea if AccessPort has a similar table? I currently have an AP tune..

Please keep us updated! I wouldn't mind paying $250 to get total control of the 5EAT! I would LOVE faster shifting...

Well, the translation isn't too bad, aside from a few words the original author misspelled, and a couple that I'm not 100% sure of what they mean (my german is based on my childhood, and is missing some technical terms). These days, most germans speak fluent English, so you probably won't have any issues, but I'd be willing to help translate if there's a need.. I'd offer to get involved (I'm a software dev), but I'm already 2 days behind a major release at work, and have another high priority project coming up after that. I don't know how far my wife would drop-kick me if I told her I committed to helping with more software, after already not spending enough time with her and my 1 and 3 year olds.. On the other hand, I would be willing to make a small donation if someone else wants to get involved and needs a VAG COM cable or such..

BIU? Hmm. Can we scan the CAN to see what commands it sends, and then send our own instead? :-)

Cool. AWD Clutch Torque is possibly the torque sent to the viscous clutch used to distribute power between front and back for the 5EAT? IRRC, the AWD system used with the 5EAT is slightly different in that regard to the 5MT/6MT AWD system.. Wonder if this would let you put the car into RWD (FWD?) mode?