hadvw

I was one of the first to upgrade to the BNR 16g - December 2009, IIRC. Still going strong after approx 60k miles. I upgraded to the IP&T oil kit as soon as it became available, but ran on stock oiling for a while as well. Always synthetic, changed every 3k, usually adding 0.5-1 quart between fillups..

Wow - seems like I made the right "mistake" when going with used DW650s (they were cheaper) for my bnr16g, rather than bigger.. I now have a hexmods as well as a throttle-happy adjusted tune. The car can absolutely rip off some amazing runs, say rolling at 20 in first, rev near limit, shift to 2nd, hard shift, keep revving, etc.. Sadly, it doesn't do it all the time - half the time, I get vague hunting, maybe almost slipping, etc. Going from NA or S/C manual cars to auto turbo is like going from a well-trained army (yes sir, right NOW, sir!) to a group of guys with guns who like to shoot stuff (wait, you want me to do what? Are you sure? Really? Ok, I guess..). There are some really good runs in there, but it's so hard to know if it will happen this time, or if you'll bog down for some reason.. Definitely considering MT for my next car..

Ok, thanks, Brian and Mike. Good to know. I'm sure it's useful info for others..

Hmm. I thought the Cobb OTS tunes, for example, were acceptable. So pro-tunes needs to be pre-vetted?

Just in theory (I'm probably done modding the LGT), but: -get bigger injectors (at least 850) -get a Cobb AP3 tune (I currently have an OS tune), whether OTS or protune At that point, just throw the kit on, and it's good with the same tune? So if I need to smog, just take it off, keep the same tune, and after I pass, put it back on?

I understand larger injectors will be needed. However, I currently have DW650s on my '05 with a bnr16g, so I'm thinking DW850 sidefeeds SHOULD work. I'm curious about how much work to install/uninstall this would be, so as to pass smog. Converting to a whole new fuel rail doesn't seem like a "take it off in an hour or two" type of thing..

Does it require upgrading to '07-09 top feed injectors (or '05-06 LGTs)? How much work to install/uninstall?

Thanks. Guess I should look into tuning my '15 Town and Country FFV Seriously, though - the 3.6 pentastar's pretty nice..

Just found this. I looked into flex fuel 2-3 years ago for my '05, and the answer I got was "nothing really useful available". Now, she's getting a little older, and I'm not sure if I want to spend the $$. But, I do want to keep up-to-date and know what's happening. Any idea if the FF kit will make one fail a visual? Still gotta smog the beast every 2 years..

Sure, I can see why you would have that opinion.. I can't find the exact statement anymore, but Subaru did officially state at one time that they have never used Takata airbags for any driver's side airbags, so unless they were lying (I suppose it could happen), I feel relatively safe that the recall won't be extended to the driver's side.

CR, you seem like such a knowledgeable guy. I'm surprised you'd go with pulling the fuse for the whole system vs. just disabling the passenger-side airbag..

Exactly. Don't need legal troubles just for trying to help out..

Yes, the passenger airbag can be disabled - I did it, and I've explained to a couple of others how to do it and still keep the rest of the airbags working. Requires 2 2-ohm (yes ohm, not kohm) resistors. PM me for details.

Anyone actually tried with OEM LGT wheels?

I'm running Pilot AS3s (before that, AS/AS+, before that other decent tires). For pads, I've liked the Carbotech Bobcats the best - better (IMHO) than Stoptech, and WAY better than HPS. As for calipers - my main reason to want an upgrade is that even after replacing both fronts a few years ago with rebuilt units, I'm still getting a bit of pull now and again to the passenger side under heavy braking.

Were you already on 18s? Or do the Brembos fit under 17s?

Not fitting on stock 17s (even with spacers) kills the interest for me. Car is 11+ years old. Hoping it runs another 2-3. Looking for a newer semi-DD/track toy (thinking used cts-v) with lgt as backup. 18s + this would be $3k easily - car isn't worth $3k. I did just pay $2k+ to repair front diff + add hexmods f1, but that wasn't really an 'upgrade', more a 'keep it running' cost.

Wish I'd known you sold upgraded gear sets instead of just bushings. They said my gears were fine when they installed my bushings - I don't launch much.. Here's hoping they hold a bit more.. I just need another 3-4 years and another 30k miles or so..

I hope you get everything fixed. I had a similar issue a couple of years back: car stalling at idle just after warming up (esp with AC on!). Tried a few different things. I believe I ended up replacing one coil pack. And then, I switched from a "pro-tune" (which, honestly, seemed a bit unprofessional to me) to a TA e-tune, and after that's it's not been an issue. Another thing I did while I had the problem: use FreeSSM (at first, with APv1 tune) and then romRaider/ecuTune (with the TA tune) to bump up idle rpm. With FreeSSM, it got reset whenever the battery was removed, and the rpm at idle was high enough to be a little annoying, but at least the car didn't stall anymore in the middle of traffic when stopping at a light, which was much MORE annoying/dangerous. I'm sure by now you've got confirmation that cyl #2 is bad, and all that, but hey - if you're willing to try something simple to save a few $K...

subed. If they fit OEM 17" wheels, would be amazing. A little confused that the adapter kit page says '13-15 ATS calipers, '04-07 CTS-V pads.. Are the pads of different thicknesses, and that's why '13-15 ATS pads won't work? Or are the CTS-V pads better material?

Subaru stated (in the NHTSA recall bulletin) that for the Legacys, Takata airbags were only used for the passenger side. No idea if the '99 will eventually join the list.

It was really easy (less than 10 minutes, after waiting 30 minutes after disconnecting the battery) on my '05. PM me for details. I've had the recall done already, didn't seem like they messed up much, just a couple of smudges on the windshield that wiped off easily.. They also removed (as per my instructions) a no-longer needed aftermarket antenna without any complaints. My cubby already had a crack in one part, so I can't blame them for that. Car also smelled of adhesive for a couple of days, but nothing too horrible. Overall, quite satisfied. I had it done at Carlsen Subaru in Redwood city. The only hitch was that they needed an extra day and got me into a rental (extended-size Yukon - talk about a boat ) and I had to drive back and forth a couple of times.

I'm almost at 120k, with stage 3 (bnr16g) since 63k. Just had front diff rebuilt, new axles, HexMods F1 + bushings and rear diff bushings done. Fun to drive again, and this gives me hope I can get 175k on the block. Always changed the oil around 3.5-4K with synthetic. Driving much less now (used to be 12-13k/year, but now I can work from home a lot, so maybe 7-8k/year), so 175k would be another 5-6 years from now.

Really? Hmm. I switched to Amsoil the last time around (1k miles ago). We'll see. I have gotten a couple of things that maybe felt like slippage (not sure - my first auto car) in 3rd, although it was doing the same thing in 2nd before the flush, so maybe it's just holding the gear a little longer than expected - hard to know for sure. (I have throttlehappy's torque-adjusting tune, so that also adjusts shifts somewhat)

I think he usually keeps 2-3 on hand. I just got one from him 2 months ago when my front diff died and I needed the trans dropped anyway.. He had it ready to go to me in a day, after I made my decision..