hadvw

What do you consider "decent" mileage? And where are you finding '14s for high 30s :confused:

So, figure on some DW1000 sidefeeds as part of the cost? Group buy on those?

Yeah, Carbotech actually says: if you had Carbotech pads before, no re-bedding needed. I believe that Brembos are really easy, correct? Just take the wheel off, pull a pin and pull the pads out, new ones in. With the stock LGT, gotta remove the calipers, which gets more annoying. I'm ALSO considering getting an STI as a "fun" car. Are the stock STI pads any better? (yeah, sorry, that's a different question ) Edit: My apologies for thread-jacking - I edited this to avoid any further posts. Sgt. Gator - thanks for that link. It explained/summarized a lot of what I'd learned in bits and pieces over the years about pads. Ok, I'm done. here. Sorry again.

Do they work ok on the street, i.e. don't need to be warmed up to actually stop? What kind of "chirping"?

Quick question for those of you into racing/tracking: are there any easily-available pads that are track-acceptable and not horrendous on the street? If I want to play around with an HDPE event (my first, although I did the "Exotic Racing" thing in Vegas) and not smoke my brakes right away.. Currently running Carbotech Bobcats, and I like them best on the street, compared to the Stoptech sport or HPS pads. Initial bite after a while of not braking is much better/predictable. But, I've been told they won't last long on a track at all. IMHO, Stoptech were ok, and I didn't like HPS (I think, or maybe HPS+ - it's been 5+ years since I tried and disliked those). Would do Stoptech again if those are ok. I am planning to get rear hubs done, and it's probably time to do rear pads/rotors. So might as well get those done at the same time, and maybe swap in some new pads in the front (I have Centric cryo rotors on the front with 10-15k on them, so those should be good to go). And new synthetic fluid. Thanks.

On their website, I just see '08-09 kits. Do they support '05-07 as well? Under development?

There's a whole 'nother thread on here about former LGTers who've gotten an SS.. At least 4 or 5 people from here, IIRC. Nice to sit in. Lots of room. If I didn't have some track aspirations, I'd probably already have one. As it is, it's still on the list. But pretty far behind STI.

For $60k, I'd take a cts-v wagon or used e63 or something..

Dang, wish I could have made it. Totally want to get into racing in some shape or form. HDPE to start, but just observing at first. However, weekends are filling up towards the end of the year. Plus, the LGT needs a new front bearing in the worst way (planning to do all the bearings). After that, probably some more suspension fixes. No, not planning on driving it, just observing for now, but I don't want to be annoyed the whole trip..

Going great so far..

That's EXACTLY what was happening to me. Traced it down to a non-OEM coilpack (not sure how it got there) that died early. New OEM coil-pack, and it seems much better. Not 100% sure yet that it's fixed, but about 90% sure: 3 days in a row, including cold/wet, and no issues. StkmltS: have you tried swapping coil packs to try to isolate it? I thought it wouldn't do much, but so far, it seems to have helped me isolate the problem and solve it.

Ah, interesting. I always thought it was sending the pressure from the TMIC on as a reference. So it's actually the control signal FOR the BOV, not an output? Then the condition of the BOV itself doesn't matter (for the purposes of this mod). Any harm/loss of efficiency in teeing into it there, as I've done? And did I understand correctly that this IS where others teed-in for the FPR mod?

I had someone else do them - am I supposed to see them separate into multiple pieces when jacking up the car? Looks like a top/bottom and middle section.. (this was while replacing sway bar bushings)

Hmm. Either I am way off on this, or I messed up my terminology. Here's what I think I know: there's a 6-10 inch (roughly) air line that goes from the cyl #4 (shown capped off in one of the pictures) to the FPR, which is further towards the bumper (driver's side), and not too far from the MBC, etc. This gives a pressure reference to the FPR, telling it how to adjust fuel. This is the "not so great" source. The blow-off valve, which attaches to one of the outputs of the TMIC, has an outlet line which sends a reference PSI signal to various other parts, as well as the "bleed off boost" line, which is thicker, and goes back to the turbo inlet. I have teed into the blow-off valve's pressure reference line for my boost gauge for years, so I'm pretty sure it's correct and works. My thought was to plug my cyl-4 FPR feed into this tee instead, and move my boost gauge input to the cyl-4 feed. If the boost gauge didn't like the result (as yours didn't at first), then I might add a second tee to the blow-off valve pressure reference line to add the boost gauge back there. Did I understand correctly? Which term did I use incorrectly? BPV? Could be.. Right. I do understand long-term it's all bad. I was more worried about: "oh, something's wrong - let's check that cap in 2 minutes when I can pull over" time frame - if I blow the cap off during boost, how quickly would something break? I'm going to try my best to cap it well, but.. Stuff happens.

Yeah, probably. Although I did Whiteline LCAs about 50k miles ago. May also be ball joints. We have some horribly bumpy roads around here..

Definitely want to look into this, just because.. 1) Would doing the "$0.16 bpv mod" and hooking the FPR line up after the BPV in any way mess with this mod? AFAIK, the "pressure" reference line still shows boost, just as before. My guess is no, but wanted to ask. 2) what would happen if our cap-off of cyl 4 happened to be bad and popped off? Would cyl4 (or maybe all of the intake?) loose a little boost, so it would run a little rich, and down on power a little? I.e. a non-catostrophic failure? Or could it make things go boom? I have a gtboostdig20 already teed into the BPV line, so I COULD simply swap the two. I will probably try that first and see how bad the readings are. I have, IIRC, 5/32 plastic tubing.. Hopefully it doesn't cause all kinds of nasty things to happen with the boost gauge..

After 3 days in a row of no real issues, yeah, I'm 95% confident I got it.. Now to deal with the front-end clunking...

Quick update: got the coil pack Wednesday night (a bit of a surprise, didn't expect it until Friday from the shipping estimate). Installed Thursday AFTER the morning drive. A quick test drive, no problems. Another drive this morning (in warmish rain) and no issues. 1 misfire in cyl 4 at start, 1 in cyl 1 (the one with the new coil) somewhere in there. That's it. Doesn't mean it's solved, but at least it's showing signs of improvement. Getting this car to run again without worrying about this would be great.

Does it have to be a Legacy? Or can we get quotes on STIs as well?

Interesting aside: the nav bar tells me there's a page 5 (for my settings) with posts 161-163. But clicking on the page 5 link brings me back here (to page 4).. First bug like that I've ever with the forum software. Edit: Interesting, my post came up as #161. Not sure why it thought there were more before. Were some deleted? All I can say is: I wish I had your understanding of the tuning process, and your time and dedication for it. Stock, I got around 18/25 as claimed, sometimes 26-27 on longer trips. Stage 2 (gutted pipes) wasn't too bad either with the VF40. Stage 3 (bnr16g, DW650s), and I'm lucky to get 15/22. Mind you, I've been chasing some other issues lately (bad coil, I think). If I REALLY baby it on the freeway, I can sometimes see 25 mpg for portions of a trip (that's with the tune adjusted to show pretty much correct mpg for my injectors as measured by 5-10 tanks). 30 mpg?? In my '05? Maybe coasting downhill all the way.. I know, MT is probably +1-2 MPG anyway over my 5EAT, and I almost never take it easy, and a lot of my driving is stop-and-go with lots of sudden acceleration. I can accept 15-16 mpg for that. I'd just love to see 26-28 on the freeway sometimes when cruising at 70-75 mph. Maybe CA91 gas is partly to blame for that too.. And I guess most of my longer trips involve some significant elevations.. But still.

Immediately after start today, saw 1 misfire on cyl #3, but then 5 minutes later, 45 misfires on cyl #1. So, it appears to have followed the non-OEM coil. Just ordered a new OEM coil. Debated about doing plugs as well... Holding off for now..

Yeah, I think that's the one. No misfires today..

Ok, so swapped coil packs (1/3) today. Of course, somehow the cable fell off the #3 coil pack, so when I started it up, cyl #3 misfire instantly kept going up.. Tested twice, just to be sure, but it ran up to 80+ both times. After fixing the cable and re-starting, cyl #1 had a couple of misfires, so I'm thinking it IS the coil, but I'm going to go through a cold start tomorrow just to be sure. Interestingly, the 2 coil packs had different labels on them.. My wife didn't realize my cell phone isn't like hers, and pushing the middle of the screen doesn't take the picture. So, no pictures. By memory, the one from cyl #3 (the one under suspicion) had the label "STI" on it, and what looked like a Subaru part #. The one from cyl #1 had totally different markings on it. Something starting with F, but I can't for the life of me remember the exact name. Writing was also rotated 90 degrees, and the part number did not look like a Subaru part. I don't specifically remember replacing any coils, but it's possible it was done at some point to fix a similar issue or something. In any case, aftermarket seems to work, OEM (I'm guessing the "STI" one is OEM) seems to be failing. So, if misfire moves to cyl #1, time to buy at least one new coil.

I'm going to do coil packs first. I may get someone to swap injectors (I don't like playing with fuel related stuff, but maybe it's time to learn). If it gets to "swap plugs", I'm putting new plugs in.. No messing around with that. Btssm. Before, when I hit WOT after accelerating onto the freeway, Btssm locked up (stopped getting data) 4 times out of 5. Today, I was more gentle, didn't go for the "floor it, huge surge", but more "gently increase throttle", and it still locked up. Time to go back to RR to see if it also locks up.. Or see if I can get a refund and move Btssm to my Galaxy S6, although that would only be temporarily..

So.. Started getting temporary CELs (i.e. ones that go off after a few seconds) after a new tune from my tuner. No permanent CELs. Overall, the "really bad" period is shorter now. I noticed he changed the highest MAF g/s from 60 to 45. Seems to be missing a lot at 3600 rpm, and not many other places. (see LV) -ve fuel correction = too much fuel (losing air)? Another oddity: saw on BtSSM today where it records max/min values, that max boost target was 17.x, max actual boost 11.0. But, it seemed to be just really quickly - my Dig20Boost (hooked in after the BPV) still shows up to 20+ psi. But, again, it locked up after hitting even partial full-throttle, and much more gently. Also saw cyl #3 misfire hitting 14 - that's the highest I've seen. No other misfires (today). I feel it's down to injectors or coilpacks/wiring (at least until those are ruled out). My question: non-oem coilpacks are going for $80-90 for FOUR on ebay. I know that OEM parts are best, but.. How likely is it that these will be horrible? I'm thinking, they gotta be better than almost 12-year-old packs, right? OEM remanufactured are $45 on ebay, new OEM around $70. Trying to decide whether to go with: -compression/leak-down test right off the bat, and if nothing found, new plugs and/or new coils? Time is a factor right now.. And hey, while doing the test/plugs, $100 for new coils and the labor is pretty much free, since they already have to remove the old coils.. -slow and steady - swap coil 1 < - > 3, watch for misfire to move or not move, swap injectors, etc.. Right now, $200-300 isn't a big deal if it solves the issue. Plus, it's probably been 2-3 years since I did plugs the last time..