hadvw

Note quite. Let's define 3 operating conditions: cold, warm, hot. cold is cold start, temp gauge pegged at the bottom (let's call it 6:00 o'clock, even though it's really not) warm - coolant has warmed up enough for idle to start to drop, temp gauge at the first "warm" marker, or a little past. hot - coolant gauge firmly at 9:00 o'clock. cold is fine hot is fine that 60 to 120 second cold-to-warm transistion has hesistation, misfires, stumbles and occasionally stalls (when idling) in traffic. Btssm shows knock events, cylinder misfires, etc. But only when ambient temp is below approx 65F (which is October-Feb or March here in NorCal). During the summer, this does NOT happen - at least not as noticeably, and no stalling. So the colder ambient temps make it worse somehow. Now, it looks like I might have the occasional knock event as well when hot, thanks to btssm logging. But, as bad as it sounds, I don't really care about it that much. Not stalling/stumbling in rush-hour traffic is my #1 concern. I just got an updated tune from my tuner, haven't had a chance to try it yet. Will flash that tonight, and log some more.. Thanks for helping.

I recently checked the throttle body hose again - ever since I installed the Grimmspeed TMIC, those hoses have been popping off regularly until I REALLY tightened them down. O-rings are a definite possibility, though..

125k miles. 60k+ at stage 2/3.

Yeah, it was a short log because something went wrong with logging today. I'm seeing misfires and noticeable stumbling (car shudders, sometimes stalls) when transitioning from "cold, enriched startup" to "warm, normal idle" mode. Just after it gets to the "warm" line on the coolant temp gauge is usually where it starts. Most noticeable at idle, but this year, also sometimes noticeable as a sudden lack/loss of power when pushing on the throttle.. Have gotten P303 (P304 in the past, but not so far).

Ok, thanks all. VVT was only different at idle. Fuel trims were +25/-25% as max/min logged by BtSSM. It's possible that the jerking action of hitting boost dislodged the USB a little. My OBD plug's always been a little finicky. Will try to look under the hood tomorrow for anything obvious. Will also try to get a continuous log, hopefully it comes out ok..

AFR seemed to go pretty high when getting off the throttle (i.e. coasting) - is that normal? LV was posted a couple of posts up - interestingly, IAM was 1.00 there.. So, this is a vacuum leak, AFTER the MAF, right? I checked the infamous "T" piece a couple of days ago, that seemed fine. I've had the turbo inlet under suspicion for a while. Was going to wait until after SMOG (in a month or so) to try again to put in the AVO inlet I bought. Dang..

More knock events, and logs attached. Edit: dang, looks like there isn't much data here. BtSsm just randomly stopped responding a couple of times today - wonder if I was overloading it by displaying/logging too many parameters.. Guess I'll have to cut back for tomorrow's run. Shouldn't IAM be at 1.0? Why only 0.875? I last reset the ECU about a week/100 miles ago when flashing the latest ROM where I tried to adjust the idle RPM to avoid this problem.. Also, it seems the right VVT was 2-4 during one of the vents, while the left was at 0. Coincidence? Got a brief misfire on cyl 4 today.. Is it normal to see fuel correct % hit +25% and -25%? KNOCK DETECTED at 2016-10-11 08:39:49 AM AFR: 13.4 Boost (psi): -3.70 Boost Target (psi): -0.4 Closed loop: 1 FKC (deg): -2.11 FLKC (deg): 0.00 Fuel correct (%): 6.1 Fuel learn (%): 1.22 IAM: 0.875 Injector DC (%): 7.9 Injector PW (ms): 4.9 Intake (degF): 80 Load (g/rev): 0.88 MAF (g/s): 28.41 MAF (V): 2.28 Misfire cyl 1: 0 Misfire cyl 2: 0 Misfire cyl 3: 0 Misfire cyl 4: 1 O2 rear (V): 0.8 RPM: 1941 Speed (mph): 23.6 Throttle plate (%): 16.1 Timing (deg): 31.5 Turbo WGDC (%): 23.1 VVT int L (deg): 14 VVT int R (deg): 15 KNOCK DETECTED at 2016-10-11 08:38:37 AM AFR: 16.4 Boost (psi): -4.70 Boost Target (psi): -6.5 Closed loop: 1 FKC (deg): -2.11 FLKC (deg): 0.00 Fuel correct (%): 15.7 Fuel learn (%): -1.76 IAM: 0.875 Injector DC (%): 4.8 Injector PW (ms): 4.1 Intake (degF): 75 Load (g/rev): 0.61 MAF (g/s): 14.40 MAF (V): 1.90 Misfire cyl 1: 0 Misfire cyl 2: 0 Misfire cyl 3: 0 Misfire cyl 4: 0 O2 rear (V): 0.0 RPM: 1408 Speed (mph): 0.0 Throttle plate (%): 10.6 Timing (deg): 24.5 Turbo WGDC (%): 0.0 VVT int L (deg): 0 VVT int R (deg): 0 KNOCK DETECTED at 2016-10-11 08:31:51 AM AFR: 16.1 Boost (psi): -3.80 Boost Target (psi): -4.5 Closed loop: 1 FKC (deg): -2.11 FLKC (deg): 0.00 Fuel correct (%): 16.3 Fuel learn (%): 1.90 IAM: 0.875 Injector DC (%): 5.7 Injector PW (ms): 4.9 Intake (degF): 98 Load (g/rev): 0.76 MAF (g/s): 17.66 MAF (V): 2.02 Misfire cyl 1: 0 Misfire cyl 2: 0 Misfire cyl 3: 0 Misfire cyl 4: 0 O2 rear (V): 0.0 RPM: 1392 Speed (mph): 5.0 Throttle plate (%): 13.3 Timing (deg): 23.0 Turbo WGDC (%): 0.0 VVT int L (deg): 0 VVT int R (deg): 0 BtSsm_20161011_080016_knock.csv BtSsm_20161011_083057.csv

Thanks. I bought the o-rings, but haven't gotten around to replacing them yet.. Guess it's time to find time to do that.. She's needing a lot of TLC lately..

Just had a thought - this always seems to start around October, end around February (IIRC). Winter gas??? I'm in CA, and our 91 is already notoriously bad..

Ok, so, I have an '05 5EAT, and I'm getting similar things - stumble, mostly at idle. I hooked up BTSSM today (just got an OTG adapter with my VAG-OBD cable and a Kindle Fire to which I added Google Play). Works great. Here are various knock events/logs. While driving, felt the stumble/miss, and saw the misfire count of cyls 1/3 go up (I once got a P303). Cyls 2/4 did NOT go up - always at 0. If there are other parameters to log, or it's easier if I trim the logs for the relevant events, please let me know. Just got BTSSM today, so still figuring it out. Summary: car runs fine cold, but when getting close to being warm, there are 30 seconds or so of noticeable miss/stumbling where it actually stalls sometimes. Has done this for a long time, upping idle rpm helps. Once warmed up, seems much better. Logs indicate still a bit of misfiring, maybe. KNOCK DETECTED at 2016-10-10 08:57:25 AM AFR: 15.6 Boost (psi): -3.10 FKC (deg): -2.11 FLKC (deg): 0.00 Fuel pump DC (%): 33.3 Injector PW (ms): 5.4 Load (g/rev): 0.81 MAF (g/s): 19.49 Misfire cyl 1: 0 Misfire cyl 2: 0 Misfire cyl 3: 0 Misfire cyl 4: 0 RPM: 1447 Speed (mph): 6.8 Throttle plate (%): 14.9 Timing (deg): 25.0 VVT int L (deg): 0 VVT int R (deg): 1 KNOCK DETECTED at 2016-10-10 08:54:43 AM AFR: 11.1 Boost (psi): 17.10 FKC (deg): -2.11 FLKC (deg): -2.00 Fuel pump DC (%): 100.0 Injector PW (ms): 17.2 Load (g/rev): 2.89 MAF (g/s): 206.40 Misfire cyl 1: 0 Misfire cyl 2: 0 Misfire cyl 3: 0 Misfire cyl 4: 0 RPM: 4281 Speed (mph): 57.2 Throttle plate (%): 71.4 Timing (deg): 9.0 VVT int L (deg): 7 VVT int R (deg): 6 BtSsm_20161010_080033_knock.csv

subscribe..

If you're asking me - still have stock TGVs. I also replaced AVCS valves over the summer.. Driver's side was easy, passenger side a PITA to get the old one out..

Keeping a close eye on this. Ever since I upgraded injectors + turbo (bnr16g) 6 or 7 years ago and got tuned, around this time of year when it's colder in the mornings, I've had a stumble at idle for about 3-5 minutes. And specifically around 5-7 minutes after starting the car, just as it switches from "cold" (open loop?) to "warmed up" (closed loop?) mode. After it fully warms up, usually goes away. Was worst with the initial Cobb AP v1 tune. The newer open-source tune made it better. It was bad enough that it often stalled somewhere along the main street going towards the highway. My solution was to raise the idle rpm some, first using OpenSSM (had to re-do every time the ECU got reset), then editing the tune manually with RomRaider. Doing that mitigated the problem 90%. All was good for several years. Just had it happen again this week. P303/CEL, but that was the day AFTER it stalled at the light. Didn't stall with the CEL, but a noticeable shudder. No issues at WOT, and no issues with warmer temps, or when cold or fully warmed up. I just remembered I got an updated tune over the last year, and haven't updated the idle rpm yet, just the mpg multiplier.. Probably time to do that. Would love to actually diagnose it, though. Some moisture causing a partial short from the coils? Dirty injectors? I've had the DW650cc's in there for 60k+ miles now, bought used, never had 'em cleaned. I swapped plugs several times over the years, never saw anything unusual (as far as I could tell - I'm no expert). Guess I need to start logging in the mornings when driving the kiddos to school.. What parameters should I log?

Yeah, but.. it's still a BIG car, and apparently doesn't corner too well. Not really suitable as an occasional track toy, from what I hear..

PMed..

So, what happened with your wheels? 08 Spec B wheels (18", I assume?), and they still didn't fit?

(more threadjacking) NSFW: yeah, my company actually has a branch in Portland - that move would be quite easy. However, my wife's CA credential doesn't transfer easily, and if we move, she's made it clear she's retiring. If I did transfer to Portland, they have a salary adjustment for "cost of living", so we'd lose half our income (my reduction, my wife retiring). I have a feeling it's easier to live in the Bay Area for 2X vs 1X in Portland (depending on X, of course). Plus, the weather's pretty dang nice around here, etc. Since I started working from home most days, I don't run into traffic much either (it's generally possible to plan around it). The only thing that really bothers me is CARB and the "cars are evil" attitude from some officials. I love cars, so it's hard, but I guess I can manage.. There are 2 tracks within 2 hours, and a 3rd about 3.5 hours away, so I can't complain too much - I've already let the wife know I will be doing some track events in the next 12 months or so..

I actually meant me . In the same boat, but in norcal. On the other hand, have software job, wife has good job, she was born and raised here. And the weather's pretty good too..

That's really sad.. Maybe it's time to move..

That JB4 sounds pretty impressive, and at a reasonable cost. And only $25 for flex fuel hardware?? Weird about that "not available in CA" though. Do they actually not ship to CA?

Thanks. I think I have the rear gate rattle.. Totally missed that one. I always thought it was the rear suspension mounts. OTOH, I have a 2005, not 2006.. So not sure.. Will have to check..

Any other problems with rear-gate-related devices? AM/FM reception, spraying, lights (including the interior trunk lights), etc? I had a similar issue with the wiper not working at all. For me, this was due to the passenger-side tailgate wiring harness wearing out, and it led to several issues including wiper rarely working, little spray, and AM/FM reception issues due to the driver harness (I soldered this one, only 2-3 connections). I posted a walkthrough on how to replace the harness about 1-2 years ago.

Really? The ride is that bad? Can't you get coilovers or something? My Konis are adjustable, and I've gotten used to the harsher suspension. Then again, I'm driving less than 7.5k miles/year these days, so it's not so bad. I'm looking at something for an occasional track day, so I'm looking at an STI - already has most of the stuff I'd want to do to a WRX from the factory.. Am also interested in the SS, but somehow missed that 20% off sale.. Would definitely have considered it..

Sorry to belabor the point. "With a pump and injectors".. Do you mean a) if you need a pump and injectors installed as well or b) if you already have suitable pump and injectors installed. Which sidefeed injectors are considered suitable? Walbro (255 lph, I think?) an acceptable pump? $1162.50 + 700 + 125 is approx $2k. Tax makes that $2200. $950 for pump + injectors installed? Awesome!

Mike: looking at Delicious' website, I guess the basic hardware is around $600-750, depending on model - which model do we go with for the LGT? How much labor to install? 1-2 hours? And then tuning - what's required for Cobb vs. Ecutek? Someone mentioned you need 2 tunes, so is that $400+ each? Are we looking at $1.5k, $2.5k, $?? for a basic package? Some example costs would really help. Also, what about minimum supporting fuel mods? I have a bnr16g, walbro + DW650ccs. I've heard some tuners say they don't like DWs at all, so is it pretty much impossible with sidefeeds? Would I not see much benefit due to maxing out the 650s?