whitetiger

no, but the OE formulation has its limits. most OE subaru pads are for comfort and cost savings. overheating them will cause the deposits which can last a long time and will eventually warp the rotor. a more performance oriented pad will solve this since it can take the abuse. +1 for the stoptech sport pads mentioned. just put a set on my outback and they transformed the braking of that car from the centric posi-quiets it had previously.

re-bedding the pads will help, but that may not work so well with a crappy pad. brakekleen wont do much. you have to clear away the pad transfer layer on the rotor. re-bedding the pads will do that, or a resurface of the rotor, but 9 times out of 10, the rotor is not warped. Motorbreath, your mechanic friend is 100% correct.

be sure its warped and not just pad deposits on the rotor. OE pads are usually garbage and will leave deposits if overheated.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caminito_del_Rey [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZmDhRvvs5Xw]El Camino del Rey [High Quality] - YouTube[/ame]

those numbers are garbage. they just set the front toe and sent it off. f your alignmenr shop.

OP said he had whiteline camber bushings(which would be for the rear). again, equality matters more than reaching specific camber/toe numbers. (within reason)

rear toe should be 0 with 0.0000000 thrust angle -most important. front and rear camber should be max negative but is one side is more than the other, back that side off till both side are exactly even. front toe should be 0, with both side exactly the same. the name of the game with alignments is balance, not hitting any particular camber number.

^ who's man is this?

Some aux cables don't play nice with phones in protective cases. If your phone is in one, it may prevent the aux cable from fully engaging the phone. Take it out of the case and try that way.

either way, its a deal!

FWIW rockauto.com has units for cheap. ~$90 per caliper, and a whole kit with rotors, calipers and pads for under $400 https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,2005,legacy,2.5l+h4+turbocharged,1430733,brake+&+wheel+hub,caliper%2C+rotor+&+brake+pad+kit,14204

why not just go get a cheap electric 1/2" drive impact gun and uggadugga it off. if you dont have one, its good to have in general in your tool arsenal. my cheap ryobi one will take them off all day long.

man, i hate being right. it was the same problem with the CVT wrx.

MAF scaling isnt needed unless the MAF housing itself changed diameter. This doesn't change that, so its just a bolt on. its really no different than putting in a K&N drop in filter.

instead of getting more from the rear wheels, maybe find a way to get less from the front wheels.

3 years with a girl = AIDS?

^

yeah, thats not bad at all. service it and drive.

Hawk Street performance 5.0 Pads and any centric cryo treated blank rotors. /thread

yes, its a standard r160. Case rust is normal. pull of the back plate and check the gears. if its clean inside and not making noise, dont replace it, just service it.. If you do replace it, you can use any late model VLSD r160 with the 3.92 gears. IIRC all 5eat trans cars use a FD of 3.92. besides corrosion, what makes you think its not a R160?

https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/9.5156 -with grease fittings. make sure the bushing brackets are in the size range the of the studs on the car. i picked this part# from memory. verify before purchase.

tryin to think what SCCA autox class that would be in. F-Prepared I'd guess.

all you need is the calipers, and 2004 STI format rotors with the 5x100 bolt pattern. thats for the front. Id go for hawk street 5.0 pads, not EBC. the rear needs a bracket, and an adapter rotor for your rear parking brake which you can get at KNS i think.

thats pretty good for that chassis, particularly a wagon.