frank_ster

haha i'm in newton iowa for a few days !

nothing for 08-09 thus far .. sorry

yea i dont get why subaru did that 1.1 reduction for the front diff..

well it could cause extra wear on the clutches depending on what was wrong with it.

You could just unplug the solonoid for the reverse lockout but then be carefull !

there is also a light click from the shifter it self when you go over about 5 kms. its a lock out, when your traveling more than 5 km/h you cannot put it in reverse or park. could this be what your talking about ?

^ just cut and splice in new wires where its goes through the accordion .

fwiw i run cheap oil and never had a problem other than parts exploding from way to much torque.

can you take the old one apart ? clean it and reinstall it ? it would help us understand what the root cause. the pedal and throttle body are made in a way they dont wear out. the only thing would be contamination that would make it not work.

wow .. love the fuel mat ! need that for my 76 k10 pickup that i converted to efi

Could it be gear change ?

not sure what you are describing.

3.0r 5eat is the same as 2.5gt

yea the spring may be in the diff.. i remember something like that .. i have a spare axle at my farm . there is nothing worng with the spring and good luck changing it if its in the diff.. just put it back together right and it will be fine.

Its a spring clip on the end , after you pop it in you wll see how deep it sits . Thenyou can doubble check it with a pry bar and try and pull it out again with light load . Has anyone taken the alex out before?

Happened to me twice Makes the trans feel like its slipping. Took me a while to figure it out . To get it fully seated i un did the axle nut and used a dead blow hammer

I am working on it. I have all the parts and figured out how to do it but i am driven by nessisity and i havent needed to do it yet . I have a thread called stand alone tcu that has the info that i have.

Only real solution would be stand alone tcu , as of yet no one can change dramatic varibles .

in a stock car its very idoit proof. you can do pretty much anything and wont cause issues. up shift at rpm you feel like accommodates the acceleration you want. down shift at rpm that best accommodates the enginbreaking you want. letting off throttle when shifting seems to confuse it , so try not to do that. just accelerate the rate you want and when the rpms reach whatever shift up with out changing throttle position. it has all kinds of safety that prevent you from shifting in a gear that would over rev the engine. if what your doing is heating up the trans to much it will disable manual mode. i doubt you could make that happen even if you wanted to on a stock car.

Well there is a screen before the valve body. So there would be very few particals And i have blown up 3 center diffs and still on the original valvebody i just pulled the metal bits out of the oil pan and put it back together . The only dammage i had to debris related was the front speed sensor that got a tooth stuck to it because its magnetic and it got broken off when the reluctor wheel past by it.

few more pics

It took me a long time to get the economy up. A lot of it is cold start and such i go closed loop 25 seconds after even cold start. Injector timming is very important also there will be a sweet spot . I run about 400 deg advance. When your adding timmng you will find a spot where the engine will run bad thats the reverse pulse shock wave just after the valve closing. Some people like to inject in the reverse pulse wave . But like my engine has shorter intake runners the gas spills into the next cylinder . My engine i am injecting just when the valve is opening . The gas tank evap is also a huge game changer , i took this vacuum regulator thing from the stock motor and just pull vacuum to the tank when ever idle and cruise. More than that it just closes the valve . Its a mechanical thing with no wires. Also i have external wastegate that allows you to pull a vacuum to to open the wastegate fully for cruise and even wot. It makes a huge difference in higher throttle load like when pulling a trailer. As with out it the turbo is trying to build boost the entire time, this just makes more backpressure and the engine has to work harder. Dont forget the car companies spend millions on the tune. How did you get the fuel flow calculator? In tunerstudio? I think i only seen it in megalogviewer. Im usually about 5 % duty cycle at 120 that would be about 3 ms pulse width on 65 lbhr injectors

Well its a work in progress but there is 100 000 km on the swap to its functional

Imagine i waited nearly two years and rebuilt my ej twice before doing this swap. Oh on compatibility i just connected my cam signal to the stock ecm finally . For 4 years i had to hold the key cranking position for an additional 1-2 seconds to get the ecm to put it in sort of limp mode .this was nessasary for the ecm to keep the fuel pump running and the cluster to work. I didnt do it earlyier because i wasnt sure what the ecm would say about 1 pulse per cam revolution ( from older subie engines) to the 3 pulse per rev of the varable intake cam timming. But it works ! . I just need to know the timming of the events and the guy who made the card can add the correct cam timming also. But i have a good freling if i disable the troubble code for the left hand intake cam now i can even get the cruise to work and cel to turn off !

And wow just noticed 156 000 views to this thread !