bsheaffer

Yes he’s my college friend, and I paid big bucks to have the dealer certify the wiring, go through everything, fix it, etc. it’s currently certified stock wiring. (Some of his (the master part replacer) solder joints look like a 13 year olds but all looks welll) It’s as stock as it can get because you know, a little dash-camera can cause an engine running issue. Electrically stock, mechanically stock; as they won’t touch it. Curious what the 12V charging plugs and USB plugs are for because I’ve been told “under good authority” users cannot use those either, and no, not just pertaining to my issue in general you should not use those ports (insert the more you know rainbow) interesting because things like a generic slow phone charger is an “unexpected load” how much you want to bet the “master tech” who told me that has one in his car *thonk* I Twitter DM’d (SD) him a whole novel of information and haven’t heard anything. Prolly try email haha

The alternator doesn’t turn on unless it needs to, it does not run all the time for these. Also your battery is pretty old… that would be probably the first place to look….

Also for you we’ve been chasing this crazy intermittent fault with many different warning signs. I can’t remember if I mentioned it in my post at the top but last summer the “starter cut relay” would click with the frequency of a misfire, and it stopped, it has started as of recently again. I’ve been to our mechanics (known and trustworthy) and no one has had an idea. Dealership as much as I hate it has gotten the “furthest” My only main concern and I’ll have to check this, is about a potential power issue, the code that comes up is the voltage to the EGR is low. So sure the ECU could be getting browned out but more issues would pop up if that was the case… and as for that relay (and this is where I have to check) it’s connected normally closed, controlled by the ECU, and never needed to be powered. It’s just a safety relay to kill the starter if the main starter relay fails and gets stuck (cuz push to start) so again… if it was a brownout condition I would expect relays to “power off” not on, and also as previously mentioned there would be other issues if it was browning out. I think I might run some of my own little tests. And seeing what’s going on, fortunately electrical is my forté not mechanical lmao… We know it’s getting undervolted as thats quite literally what the code is… hmm…

I’m aware of the power drain issue, I have to have an AGM, I figured they did Somthing, the junkyard alternator I got for sams year and everything even if defective from manufacture it has like 6-9k miles on it so I would expect it to atleast take me back to before this problem. I’m on my 3rd dealership SOA has told me to go **** myself

Omg finally somebody kinda around my position... be careful and keep an eye on it it started with a sputter with me and has lead to multiple catastrophic engine failures with multiple cats destroyed and everything short of the engine replaced with no resolution.... I’m interested tho did you get an EGR code? P1494?

Both alternators are tested, working fine, turning on as they should, and battery is charged properly Anyone have any ideas before I have to take it back to them and pay for a new OE alternator ( cuz it has to be new!) a new OE battery to replace my 4 moth old Redtop (cuz it has to be the OE battery! Even though the car has had an AGM it’s while life) and then probably the bulkhead engine bay harness (if the engine one was $1000 hate to see how much that will be) and yet no closer........ Basically everything short of the engine itself has been replaced with new OE equipment. Coil packs, spark plugs, cat converters (x2), ECU, Engine harness, O2 sensors, intake sensors, Fuel injectors are fine, maintenance has always been overdone it’s whole life and it’s been taken care of. Showing a few age maintenance issues that need resolved but that’s kinda on the last list of things to do. :spin::spin:

Hi all so so the book length story, reduced to a long story, and now into as brief as an explanation as I can get.... I have a 2015 Legacy been having problems for over a year now just months out of warranty originally. That has lead the car to catastrophically fail multiple times to this point, I’ve spent thousands of dollars with no help from SOA being told to basically F-off and yet were further from the resolution then ever. Currently the issue is the engine is running poor, lack of power, stuttering, and generally doesn’t know what it should be doing. And a check engine code gets thrown (P1494 - EGR Line Circuit Low) which will really put it in a lower power state. Sounds like an EGR problem maybe we should replace that eh? Well the whole valve and actuator assembly is brand new OEM installed by the dealer, we even replaced the engine wiring harness for it (not cheep) anddd we even replaced the ECU... the entire EGR operating circuit has been replaced by the dealership with brand new OEM parts. None of witch solved anything. I was then instructed the Alternator was bad (which I new was false) but they gave a very weird explanation. “ the ECU reads the battery voltage and the voltage output from the Alternator. When the battery is drained, the ECU then sends signal to alternator to engage. Once battery is back charged, signal sent to alternator to disengage. Whats happening is the ECU is reading 11 volts from your battery and not getting a sufficient output from the alternator at certain times. At those times, the check engine light comes on for the circuit because the ECU cant regulate a stabilized voltage between both sources.” I have since replaced the alternator with no change with a 7k mile junkyard one (Continued in next post because apparently only half got posted)

Does anyone have any experience with the allscaner from VXdiag? I Dono, I got one because I need to do some reprogramming if modules and I’m just faced with a whole host of problems. Seeing if anyone around has delt with this crap. Firstly I can’t get it to install everything SSM4, and FlashWrite install properly but I can’t get SSM3 to install terminating in a “path not found” error I however can get the SSM3 from the Allscaner application to launch but nothing I do will connect to the car, and half of the settings like “reprogram” just don’t exist Even half hackily running SSM3 from the setup files also is just as poop. I’ve even seen it’s supposed to work with FreeSSM but it just doesn’t. It won’t show up. I’m at a total loss. FlashWrite can even find the programming files but say they don’t exist. Something ain’t right here… I had some form of confidence with this but that’s all down the pooper… I’ve tried on multiple windows machines, doing everything I can even fully resetting the one, with no avail, compatibility mode, restarts, SSM4 Wasn’t installing but some how I got it to do that. Going to try an older version they still have posted to see if anything different. But I’m just at a loss

We currently tearing into to things. Things keep degrading more and more. Cyl 2 (the original problem) is not coming up as often, it has seemingly moved to 1 (where I flip flopped spark plugs, 2 to 1) I think 2 is still messing up but not showing up. It was still acting up after the spark plug flip flop. Now it’s saying random/multiple misfires and cyl 3 I also got a code the other day (P1494) witch appears online to be an EGR issue. Decided to pull that out and it doesn’t look so good... from what I was seeing online it could be a potential problem? I’ll try to include a photo Ima flop injectors, but considering its “spreading” like a certain current disease I’m going with this EGR lead. Any other Ideas? https://ibb.co/TBLXCfr https://ibb.co/wzXDCfH https://ibb.co/QfpQd1v

Unfortunately no, no warranty, I hit 60 k in November and it turned 5 March 26th. Even though it’s only one, I’m over both 60k & 5 year... it was acting up before that point, only very minor. Where they wouldn’t of done anything anyway. But all we got to was check and flip spark plugs. It was pretty black for 3k miles of uses, even the ones replaced at 63k “were not that bad” after flipping them I would actually idle right with a coupple “normal” hick ups, but still “undrivable” I know I said I’d get to but injector is what I and a coupple friends I consulted feel Is a worthy candidate. Atleast some direction. It has been sitting a lot with all this going on, so maybe extra gummed up. But while gas was free I was running the magical shell premium. Makes me kinda hate it because it’s what I been running as it’s been deteriorating, but im sure it’s just coincidence with sitting. But it was sitting since end of the year for longer periods. Still haven’t looked into what relay. It mocks me in my sleep...

Well.. I just typed a book that got deleted because four logged me out... but here's the summery.... -don't know what relay, but swapping them did nothing, it doesn't even make sense that any of them would be going crazy inside the cabin. only the starter relay is controlled by the ECU, the IG1, IG2, ACC1, ACC2 are all controlled from the Keyless access CM. It sounds like those main 5... but not sure... the only other cabin relay with ECM control is the Starter Cut. all other is misc stuff like defrosters etc. So that's driving me nuts..... because the only relay that could affect the engine got swaped and still has issues. and if the relay was a cause it would brownout the ECM causing more issues then just one... noticed the 5th gens had a cyl 2 misfire issue after 5 years (same age as my car), been looking at that... -Fearing the worst (Bad ECM) (doesn't make sense) -Prolly have to go to Subaru and pay $800,000.69 to have a diagnosis and part run around. Plan for today, flop & inspect injectors; Flop and inspect spark plugs (99% sure not the issue), Track down Pesky Relay!, Do some o-skill-a-skating. wish me luck! now hopefully this posts and I haven't been logged out and this message deleted on return. or ima rage and you'll get a short short "Relays make no sense, then why is it going crazy, next to check injectors, hunt culprit relay circuit, use o-skill-a-scope." Im copying that sentence in case It failed to post but actually saved it wow! - copying it all, reloading page and trying again... how is it my car that runs like a potato is running better then this four that looks straight out of the year 1625?

So... definitely not coil pack. with a flip flop its still the same cylender but it seems to get progressively worse as I tough it. After the flop and a start it was idling bad. I decided to pull the plug to the injector and it made little to no difference to running bad. Ive moved on to a possible fuel injector issue. I did check the resistance per the service guide and it reads 12.1 +- .2% at 69 degrees and the manual says 12 ohm at 68 degrees (yes obviously the engine is cold, 24 hours since ran cold, I'm not an idiot) So I'm going to call that a win.I have an oscilloscope does anyone know what the signal should look like? I'm guessing a nice pwm signal. Im sure I could get it for another to compare but that takes me to my next point THAT *bad word* RELAY... I'm not giving up that it has something to do with it. scouring all the schematics and wiring diagrams none of those internal relays have much to do with the injector, yes, it does power the ECM but that failing would cause more then just one injector? Its weird because I don't always get flashing check engine and just yesterday with testing the vehicle dynamics light (one that flashes when slipping) came on solid. It left no usable code... that relay is screwing with something and it has to be part of the issue... there is no possible way its not part of it... In a bit I'm going to flip flop some relays to see what that does...

Yeah, well next thing to try. Fortunately it’s #2 and not #4 because that’s the absolute worst to get to Stupid boxer.... jk love u... but seriously hate you. These are the times I’m happy I don’t have the 6 cylinder...

Just did the op test with a wire, it’s acting completely fine, but it’s always intermittent, while driving or after a few idel hours. And I don’t feel comfortable enough to let it run on 3 cylinders for a couple hours with a wire sparking. It’s not missing a beat and it’s nice and strong.. if it wassnt a $100 part (subaru oem) I’d be a bit more happy to buy and try....

It’s definitely one of the 5 relays on the main interior box, all that is there is IG1, IG2, starter, accessory1 and accessory2. Can pull up my service manual and see if it’s attached to any of that, but also if was a fuel pump issue it wouldn’t just be consistently only one cylinder going. I did take a look the other day, and the coil packs only have a fuse, the ECM, and ground. So again, if that relay was powering the ECM, it would be more then #2. Not a loose connector because pulling it off results in a “circuit open” code. Everything does point to the coil pack, but the relay failing at the same time & really going crazy durring the misfires, makes me want to think there is something to do with that. Dono.... why I’m just seeing if there any ideas...