All_talk

I was just poking around the deep reaches of this site and found this post. I do miss my '91 SS, super fun car, hurt me to part with it. Back when I was deep in Gen1s this site was the center of the known world:https://bbs.legacycentral.org/

Looks like 2005-2009 are the same: https://parts.subarupartspros.com/oem-parts/subaru-trunk-lid-57509ag00a9p?origin=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1dGJBhD4ARIsANb6Odlbr4PptO4otCcNDkobyjd6lv00olctZrb_WvGI4rMP7yzxeDkkcKoaAgehEALw_wcB Gary

To answer your direct question, No, it wont cause a performance issue to over fill the recovery tank. But if it is over filled when cold, it may overflow when the engine heats up. The marked levels should work fine and you shouldn't need to overfill it. That said, I have done it for two specific reasons... One, after refilling the coolant system I find that over the next few heating and cooling cycles the level drops a little as the last bit air is purged from the system. If I start with the level a couple of inches high it ends up just right. Two, in the past on other cars, I have nursed slow coolant leaks, the kind that take days or weeks to get low. In these cases I have started with the overflow tank high to extend the time between "fill ups". Gary

I have the old stock sways, they are a bit crusty, perfectly functional but not pretty (see picture). If these will work for you maybe we can work a deal. Which WL bars do you have? Gary

Ill get some pictures when I get the parts pulled out of the rear subframe, I've just been super busy, maye next weekend. Sorry for the delay.

Tire noise is relative, what tires were you running before? I went to the Pilot Sport AS4 this spring and love them. I don't feel the road noise or harshness is any worse than the Continental DWS I was running before, but the handling is noticeably improved, especially turn in. Gary

When did you hear it? Was it just after shutting it off? Coolant continues to circulate through the turbo after shutdown and it can make some noise.

Hi Joe, Here are some pictures of the console, excluding the broken hinge it's in fairly good shape. It looks like the armrest mount has been repaired (see picture). There is also one part of the assembly I need to keep for my car, it's the bottom cover for the armrest, I hope you don't need that piece. If you don't need the electrics (switches & ports), I can keep them for spares. Hows $35 + shipping for just the plastics? Gary

No easy fix here, but don't sweat it, we have all done stuff like this, Just take a breath and make a plan. The weld nut behind there is probably pretty thin wall and I doubt there is room to tap it out to a larger size, And even if you could, you would have to modify the bushing/shift mount to fit the now larger bolt. "The right way" involves cutting and welding in a new nut (this would be my choice). If that's not available to you, your dads "nut from behind" idea is not a bad one. If I were going to do it this way I would enlarge/elongate the existing drain hole to the left in your picture, You wont need to remove a lot of material, just enough to reach up behind the weld nut with a box end wrench and hold the nut in position. I would drill the weld nut out to clear the bolt, you don't want to be fighting the old threads. Skip the lock washer and use a automotive type flanged lock nut (see pic), this style nut will be easy to hold in the wrench and not push through when you try and start the bolt. A regular nut/lock washer would require a much larger hole so you can get in there with your fingers or pliers or such. You can also use some masking take, glue or thick grease to hold the nut in the wrench. Good luck, Gary

OK Joe, unfortunately I won't be able to get more pictures until this weekend. Gary

I do have all the old suspension, at some point I planned offer the aluminum arms, but figured It would be as a set. Maybe if they don't sell as a set, after a while I would consider splitting them up. Now that you have brought it up, I may finish disassembling the sub frames and list the set. Gary

Visor pics... the little compressed spot is just where is was sitting against something in box, not permanent damage. $40 shipped? Gary

Pics of radio trim, there are couple of small scuffs on the passenger side piece.

Bad news on the console, the hinge is broken.

Gotta love road trip stories... I bought my Spec B out of Illinois 11 years ago, my wife and I flew out, and drove it back to central Washington state, tag team, about 30 hours straight. Gary

I have one, I'll get some pictures for you this weekend. Gary

Assuming your system is the same as the one we have in the US, the GPS antenna is under the dash cover above the gauge cluster. On a left-hand drive car its to the right of the cluster center line. Picture is not the right year but the location is about the same as the 4th gen. Picture borrowed from this thread: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/navigation-install-oem-244473.html?p=5324471

Hey Joe, there is one person ahead of you for the steering wheel but if you PM me your zip code I can quote you shipping in case it falls through. I do have the air bag and its in pretty good shape. I can get pictures this weekend. Price $60. Gary

FYI, the deal on the NAV and steering wheel fell through, both are still available.

I do, I'll get some pictures when I'm home this weekend. Gary

Sorry HD1925, I don't have any headlights for sale. The HIDs are on my wanted/trade list. Sorry for the confusion. Gary

I do have a set (silver), and in nice shape. I can get pictures this weekend. I don't have a good idea how to price these, cant find any current comparables. My default starting point for used stuff is normally about 50% of new and adjust for condition. But in this case Subaru has discontinued the left and wants $100 for the right, seems a bit steep. So... I'll say $30 each? Gary

I'm with Max on this one, a small leak in the system can keep the vacuum from forming as the coolant cools down and it wont pull it back from the recovery tank. If that leak is someplace like a head gasket it could explain your highway overflow problem.

For Subaru clutch jobs I normally leave the engine in place and pull the trans. You can block or strap the front of the engine up but I like to use a jack because you will likely need to raise the front of the engine to get the trans out/in and fine adjustment is helpful.

Sent PM on springs.