All_talk

Also note the Bilstein's have a thicker top hat so you will see about a 1/2" less drop in the front that with the Koni's.

All stock engine with all stock parts can handle stock boost. Any changes that will increase power (like raising boost) will require a tune. These engines do not have headroom like turbo cars of the past, they are tuned lean for mileage and emissions and will not tolerate more boost without adjusting the tune. First mod for these cars is a tune.

No doubt, it's just that I already have a good set of Spec B struts. Thanks for the info, I'll think about it.

Would you consider selling just the springs?

Interested in the Tein springs, mileage on springs and struts? How much drop did you see with the Spec B Bilstein's? How would you characterize the ride compared to stock?

Like Berge said, check the level of the AT section. You could have a leak that is passing ATF form the trans into the diff section of the transaxle.

I have someone interested in the front and rear seats. I would be willing to split the interior set if someone is looking for just the door panels. Gary

Full wiring harness now pulled and ready to ship, see first post. Gary

You have a PM on the subject. Gary

I was relieved that he pulled it back, otherwise I was going to have to figure out how I was going to get the cash to by it.

I can think of two reasons someone would clamp off the heater hose, the most likely is the core is leaking, but if that was the case I wonder if it would still leak with the second line open. The second idea is that there is some issue with the HVAC controls and the heat won’t turn off. Clamping the hose might have been done to keep the cabin cool in the summer. I like the idea of of testing with fresh water to minimize the mess, but the core might not leak without some pressure. You could flush the whole system and run it with straight water just to test, but that is a bit more work. In any case I would pull the lower dash plastics on the passenger side before hand so you can see any leak quickly. Gary

There is sure to be a relay somewhere, that would be the next thing to check.

The Enterprise laptop is my work computer and updates are pushed from my IT department automatically, I'm assuming all relevant updates are current. The Home machine is my personal laptop and yes updates auto download, but it is set to ask me before installing. I might have one waiting at this point but its essentially up to date.

Could any of the connector pins grounded to the heat shield when the connector melted? I’m wondering if a output or input in the ECU could have burned out. Even if the ECU was reprogrammed, they likely wouldn’t have found this sort of problem unless they checked the specific circuits. I would check the wiring diagram and see if one of the melted pins was the power supply to the sensor. If so, you could use a meter to see if the ECU is still supplying power on that pin.

Just putting this out for complete information. I have successfully connected to my V2 AP from two different Windows 10 laptops, one with a fully updated version of Enterprise and the other a fully updated version of Home. I used the current version of AP Manager.

Be careful how you go about reinforcing the rear SB brackets, many of the available kits mount to the subframe bolt which essentially locks down the bushing at that mount. Not good for a daily driver in my opinion.

FYI, I am running current “V3” tunes on my V2 without issues (that I know of). Stage 1 and now stage 2 have loaded without problems.

If the nut is that tight chances are the stud is buggered anyway, I would heat the flange on the other end cherry red and pull the stud with nut. Extractor socket of good vice grips should get it done. If you have a welder, weld a new nut on and use your standard socket.

Yep, cut and replace. If you use plenty of anti-seize on the new ones you might get them off next time if it hasn’t been to long. Otherwise plan on replacing them every time.

Did you make any adjustments to the static exhaust cam timing to compensate for the lack of AVCS? I suspect the higher compression ratio might result in some knock and the ECU pulling ignition timing. Not great for performance but drivable if it’s not to severe. Note: if the ECU runs out of timing to pull it will drop boost to wastegate (about 7psi), and it will be very noticeable, and this won’t throw a CEL.

Yeah, it shouldn’t take a week. If the long first idle doesn’t get it try a couple of short drives with a couple of key cycles. If the idle is so low that the car tries to die there may be other issues like a vacuum leak.

How far does it wrap around the pipe? With the 1/2” standoff could you get one between the pipe and the firewall? I put my Perrin pipe in last weekend and am a little concerned about how close the pipe gets to the firewall, I can just get my finger between at the closest point.

5 speed I’m assuming? You should be able to pull the subs from the diff (internal snap rings) and use the male axles. You may need to change the stub seals, I believe the male axles have larger diameter.

I thought the ECU measured AVCS error, and if the requested angle was different from the measured angle by too much or for too long it would through a code. Not true?

Check the owners manual, but I think you press and hold the + and one of the numbers buttons to store the setting. Another note, on my Spec B the seat will only automatically move to the presets when the car is stopped, I’m sure it’s a safety feature and linked to the vehicle speed sensor or the sat nav.