All_talk

It does sound fuel related, I would not continue to through parts and guesses at it... measure the fuel pressure. Tee in a test gauge between the fuel damper and the connection at the manifold. I have run the hose out the back of the hood and held the gauge face down to the windshield with the wiper, so I could see it as I drive. If the pressure is good you can rule out pump and filter issues.

I have also formed shields out of aluminum sheet and attached them with hose clamps. Even small air gaps can be very effective, look at some of the stock style underbody shields above the exhaust. In this case we are not looking to contain the heat and move it far away, we just need to shield the radiant heat in one direction to get a little better life out of the boot (inner boots are pretty cheap and easy to change). A wrap should work, but if you drive in wet/dirty environments it will likely hold moisture and road salt/chemicals. I like the idea of a factory style shield that clamps/bolts around the pipe, but there is no readymade solution and it takes a bit of work.

Maybe something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Design-Engineering-010450-Titanium-Shield/dp/B00CF2RGHQ/ref=asc_df_B00CF2RGHQ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312634019511&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17290036058774426000&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1027784&hvtargid=pla-570074197162&psc=1 I'm going to have to solve the same problem once my 3" downpipe goes in. That location is a problem even with a stock downpipe, its always the first boot to go.

Looking for knowledge and opinions... My stock TMIC is starting to weep. It's not a measurable boot leak at this point, just the typical oily corner down by the turbo. But I'm planning on going stage 2 and want to deal with it before I do. I know an aftermarket TMIC is not necessary for my power goals but I wonder if it might not be a good idea from a durability standpoint? I don't trust bulletproofing an intercooler that is already weeping so my choices are a new (or good used ?) stock IC then bulletproof it. Or an aftermarket with stock fitment like the AVO or Perrin. If I go aftermarket it would be used, ($800+ is not in the budget). It looks like there is some debate on weather the aftermarket option would require a tune, what the current thinking on this? Would there be any disadvantage at stage 2 power levels? Gary

Front aluminum arms added to first page. Gary

Rear aluminum arms are sold. I have a set of front arms available, I will get pics up soon. Gary

My vote is bad radiator, but you may now have other issues from the repeated overheating. The rad can look fine from the outside with no external leaks and still be bad. It is common with Subaru's for the tubes in the rad to plug. To check this, bring the car up to temp, make sure the thermostat in open and let it run for a bit. Shut it down and feel the radiator core top to bottom (reach through the fans or pull them first). If you find sections that are cold or much cooler than the rest the rad is bad. First check for bad head gaskets is bubbles in the recovery tank. Gary

Is the vibration the same at that RPM in any gear (speed)? If so, it is likely engine, convertor or input shaft related. Otherwise I'd be looking at driveline, drive shaft or wheel balance first.

I agree with Marvick, I don't think there is any thing to worry about. I have found my GT one of the easiest cars to fill, no jacking or other tricks required, just a simple, logical procedure. With both caps off, fill the radiator tell full, wait a few minutes, refill, wait, refill. Usually after two or three times and about five minutes it wont take any more. Put the rad cap on. Repeat the fill and wait routine for the turbo tank. Now with the cap still off the turbo tank start the car and let it idle. The level will normally go down once things start flowing, top it up. For the first minute or so of idling keep adding coolant as needed, but don't bring the level up to the very top, leave a little room, maybe 1/2" or so. After a couple of minutes it things will start to warm, the coolant will start to expand, and the level in the turbo tank will start to rise. Once the level comes up to full (where the bottom of the cap will sit), put the cap on. Get in the car and check the gauge, it should start moving at this point. I normally run the throttle up and down a little as I watch the gauge come up. I don't know that it makes a real difference but my thinking is more flow might chase some air out. The gauge should come up to normal and the thermostat should open, now you have flow through the whole system. Let it run for a while, check for leaks, and fill up the recovery tank. I find that the system will draw in a little more coolant after the first heat cycle (with full cool down), so I "overfill" the recover tank by any inch or two. Now take it for a drive and keep a eye on the temp gauge. When you get back check for leaks and look at the level of the recovery tank, it should be where you left it or slightly higher. I find if I do it right I can refill the system and end up with the recovery tank right where I want it without spilling a drop or opening a cap. Its become a bit of a contest for me at this point. Wow, that got long, sorry. But I hope it might be helpful. Gary

I didn't know any of the EJ engines were single point. It might be the same as the previous EA SPFI engines? Might expand the the options if it is.

Yes, funny you brought them up, I meant to get back to you earlier this week. The arms are out, but the drivers side went the hard way on the rear bolt, ended up cutting the bolt/bushing. Arm is fine and I figured the bushings need replacing anyway. Passenger side could be used as is, I had no alignment issues, but at 305K miles? They could use a little clean up, (sand blast would be my choice), lets say $150 for the set (4 pieces).

I guess if I don't leave the cluster display on the clock screen I will never know its not set right. I bought a JDM bezel so I guess I'm going down the tablet road. Does anybody know if any of the non-dealer SSM tools have access to the BIU settings? BtSMM, FreeSSM or maybe this tool? https://www.vxdiagshop.com/wholesale/vxdiag-subaru-ssm-iii-multi-diagnostic-tool.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwn8SLBhAyEiwAHNTJba1gtoO2OIdWmp6mk_4KPquz4McprKxJlplSB9ZNlxG2AxJC-n8DZxoCd9UQAvD_BwE

Double Din sized JDM bezel in the classifieds right now... https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/subaru-legacy-outback-jdm-navigation-bezels-h0017ag915-h0017ag932-286986.html Gary

I thinking about removing the factory Nav from my '07 Spec B to install a tablet. I hate to loose the integrated functions and settings as I use some of them, but it might be worth it. Most of the settings I haven't changed in many years so not not a bid deal, but the clock needs to be updated at least twice a year? I'm assuming all the setting could be accessed by the dealer with the SSM, any other way? Gary

Totally understood. But I'm looking at it like a cat-back exhaust, lots of us don't need it at our power level but we still have it because we like the sound.

Your wife's wagon sounds like about what I'm looking for, what intake is it running? I drive 500+ miles a week, the last thing I want is to ruin the Grand Touring usability, it's what I love about the car. But it could just a hint more feedback when you give it the beans.

I think I've found the right balance on the exhaust with the A'pexi WS2, great tone, a little louder than stock when you are on it, no noticeable change from stock when you go easy or at hi-way cruise. I'm just hoping there is a similar "balanced" setup for the intake.

OK, I guess I deserve that, but that is not what I'm looking for. But you kinda made my point for me, too hear any of the fun noises with the stock setup you have to turn the radio off and drive around in second gear. Subaru did a great job making the car civilized, as a good GT car should be. I'm not looking for showy and I don't need anyone outside the car to hear me. I prefer my cars to look stockish and any mods to look (or sound) as if they could have been a factory option. I just find the stock setup a little to subtle when I'm in the mood for a spirited drive, for me it more about driver engagement. My ideal would be stock sounds for normal around town and hi-way cruise, but wake up a little when you are deep in the pedal. Maybe this best or both worlds in not possible with the intake?

I haven't, I read that removing it make the tone pretty droney and doesn't really add much of the good turbo sounds. But maybe I should try it?

Hey Joe, How did this affect intake sound? I'm look for something that will let me hear a little more of the spool and blow off but not a lot of suction drone. How would it compare to stock?

What aftermarket intake or mods could a person do if they wanted to hear a little more of the spinny whooshy sounds? I realize that I don't need a new intake for my power goals (stage II) and I'm not looking for super loud or droning suction, just a little up tick in the fun noises. Options? With or without changes to the tune? Gary

More items sold, updated first post.

I'm not gonna be your guy for offroad mods (never done any to a Subaru). On the engine, start with basic service/maintenance. If you don't know when the timing belt was last changed you might want to do that. And don't skimp, on the quality of the kit, the cheap ones have garbage idler pulleys that will fail in short order. And do the water pump while you are there.

Not sure who you are asking but I’m always down to share knowledge that keeps old cars alive. Gary

Technical note; the type of LSD is different between the GT's R160 Viscous LSD and the Spec B's R180 Torsen LSD (gear type). Also the (US) Spec B gets traction control (not sure about the '06). Other cosmetics not mentioned yet; chrome on the side skirts, Momo steering wheel with radio controls and factory Nav.