All_talk

That's a bummer. I would think a good used head shouldn't be that hard to find. But if you have to pay a shop to install it is not going to be cheap.

I have the IAG, I don't think they are really necessary for a street car with a stock or near stock setup. But "H" engines lack the height to separate the air-oil mix well, so it cant hurt. I did modify the installation a little, I kept the head to head crossover pipe (modified) so I could run one line from center instead of two from each head. I also only have one suction line in front of the turbo, instead of two. The air flow of the system might be a little lower configured this way but more than enough for a street car. I also changed the mount a little to get it as high as possible in the engine bay, this way I could route the drain line with a continuous slope back to the block. And the engine cover still fits!

Well for backup purposes I just save all my 2007 SpecB maps to my PC.

I'm assuming 2007+ CANbus maps are different than 2005/2006?

Very nice, I'm hoping to get at least that far. My Spec B is at 330,000 (original engine replaced at 305k).

If you look at the specs in the service manual you will see that the Spec B is fewer turns lock to lock , but it also has a shallower turning angle if you do the maths you will find the reduction in turns, as a percentage, is about the same as the reduction in steering angle. I don’t believe the Spec B rack is any quicker than the GT, just snubbed, presumably for the larger wheels.

Auto to manual is a big effort, it would be good to document for others that might want to do it, I applaud you effort. Are you swapping the wiring harness or modifying your auto harness?

As far as I know there is no issue with the lock cylinder, its the chip in the key that needs to match the ECU and BIU. If you can get you original key programed to the 6-speed ECU/BIU they I think you are good to go. I think the gauge cluster is also matched to the ECU/BIU so you will need to swap or reprogram that as well. Gary

If you cycle through the screens available in the cluster display (short press of the trip reset button) and one has the clock.

Any idea how many miles on the turbo? What other work was done with the port, full rebuild?

I see you put the tap in fuse #13 "Tail/Clearance", I believe that will only have power with the lights on. I used #14, which has power any time the key is on. Maybe that's the issue?

Check the direction of the tap on the upper right, it matters which way its installed (wire up or wire down). Yours is down and mine is up... I think one of us has it wrong (it could be me). Edit - In the correct direction power for each circuit goes through its own fuse. In the wrong direction power for both circuits goes through original fuse and could overload it. If yours is right let me know so I can flip mine If I remember right every other row in the fuse box required the tap to be installed in the other direction, ie The 1st, 3ed and 5th row the tap wire goes up, 2ed and 4th row the wire goes down. Gary

My wideband gauge required a full time power (Battery) and a key-on power source, one tap for each. Gary

If the seal has the oval cross section where its taller/deeper than it is wide, two stacked O-ring will likely be to tall and one will be too short. But a O-ring with a standard backup ring might fit. https://www.theoringstore.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=367_14

Maybe that was it, cat in the up pipe exchanged for the AIR pump.

Yep, we get the AIR pump instead.

I used "12V Plug" and "F. Fog" for Key-on and Full-time power.

Proper fix is drilling out the old and welding in the new but, if there is a good place to cut an access hole the nut could be a good fix.

I suspect the position of that "straw" is somewhat important in distributing the fuel vapor equally to all cylinders, teeing into another line may not. I'm also guessing that the small diameter of the straw works as an orifice to control flow at cruise vacuum (high), when the solenoid is open. I would try and repair the nipple at that location, or look for a good used manifold.

Unfortunately my old heat shields are rotted out. Maybe LGTmakes3 can help you out.

Seats and second steering wheel sold.

I'm going to pass on the springs, I think the S-Techs would be to harsh for me.

Door panels sold, seat pending.

You would think at that price point they would at least have a few pictures of their lights installed on a car.

Yes, Spec B top hats. I believe that all the Bilsteins (SpecB, JDM, HD) require Spec B hats. The ones from the standards GT struts will not fit due to the larger bearings for the Bilsteins. Most (all?) of the aftermarket springs are designed for the standard LGT struts, resulting in a nose high attitude with the Bilsteins, which is usually one of the problems we are trying to correct on these cars. I suspect this why the STI pink springs are so popular with the Bilsteins, as they were designed for them. Related note: The rear of these cars are not as saggy as they seem, sure in time the rear can take a deeper set than the front. But even when the rockers are level to the ground the front fender gap is greater than the rear. Turns out the front fender arch is taller than the rear. All the specs are in the FSM.