All_talk

Bump up from the dead. I'd like to get rid of the body shell before the snow flies. I could use the space and hate to just scrap it if someone could use the panels.

Don't mind us grumpy old men... Seems like we got started on the wrong foot with a new forum member, shame on us. Most of us Legacy guys are into these cars because they are under the radar or more grown up, but don't let us stop you from doing something fun. Its your car, do what you want, if somebody else doesn't like it, F*ck 'em. And yes, these cars are old and have their quirks. Some would have you believe they are some kind of temperamental time bombs, they are not. It sounds like you have a good knowledge of basic maintenance, beyond that, read up on some of the common problems these cars have and keep a lookout. Otherwise, do repairs when needed, use quality parts and do quality work and you will be fine. Have fun!

I'll add... As you noted, wheel bearings, specially the rear. Keep an eye on the coolant temp, sooner or later it will need a radiator. And if you have the engine out inspect the turbo oil drain line. They can get hard and weepy, and are much easier to change with the turbo/engine out.

If fuel pressure is the issue I wonder if you could bypass the FPCM and run the pump a 100% just to see if it solves the problem? Do Cobb or open source tunes have access to the ECUs output to the FPCM? Looking at the wiring diagram (included) it looks like there are two wires from the ECU to the FPCM, one or both of them must control the pump voltage (PWM). At the least we should be able to monitor the signal during the stumble and see if something correlates. FPCM.pdf

Our cars have a variable speed fuel pump controlled by the Fuel Pump Driver Module (22648AA081), I think the fuel pump voltage is varied based on a output from the ECU. Maybe there is a issue with the pump volume/pressure in the transition between open and closed loop fueling? Anybody ever monitored fuel pressure through this issue? I wonder if watching the fuel pump voltage would tell us anything? I know that my car (OTS stage II Cobb tune) struggles with the open/closed loop transition to boost at times, it would nice to have a solution. Gary

Thank you for the info, I think those are going to be a little to stiff for me. Obviously the springs could be changed, but assuming those are the B14 coilovers, the damping is going to be stiffer than I'm looking for.

Interested in the Bilsteins, any info on specs? Spring rates? Damping rates? Ride compared to stock?

Warped rotors are not really a thing with modern cars, as you suggest, it is likely the pads imprinting on the rotors. Can you see marks in the shape of the pads on the rotor face? Re-bedding the pads can help, but unfortunately I have never found a way to repair the rotors short of turning or replacing them, maybe others have? The typical cause for this is holding hot/overheated pads against the rotor after a long/hard stop. Stock pads have a limited temperature range and enthusiastic driving will find there limits (personally I have never met a stock pad I could not overheat). I have gone to "performance street" pads (with new rotors) and shudder is a thing of the past, but these pads have their own compromises. Gary

The can also be very helpful when installing the belt, once you set the timing position/tooth count the close guide will keep the belt from jumping on the pulleys. This is particularly helpful on the drivers side where the cams are up on the lobs and like to jump around.

I have a black carpet out of a '07 SpecB, but shipping cost would be outrageous, better to find one local.

Yes, the front arms are still available. They are Subaru, originals off my car. They are in good shape but I suspect you would want to change the bushings, they have a lot of miles on them. I good DGM fender would be great, maybe we could workout a trade.

I'm going to bump this to get any fresh eyes on it. I'd like to get the body shell gone before winter to free up a parking spot. If you have any interest let me know I'm sure we can come to an agreeable price. Gary

Stock rubber is the right choice for the comfort level you are seeking.

I know I have one, just cant remember how nice it is. I wont be able to check until this weekend.

The tube is 10mm ID x 12mm OD. Looks to be typical vinyl tubing. I have included a picture of the connector at the lower end and a view of where it exits the body from the inside and outside. I hope that helps.

Front or rear tube? I have a full sunroof assembly out of my parts car with tubes, I could measure one. I won't be home until this weekend but I could do it then.

What does it take to get these on a '07 GT? Is there a thread somewhere?

I would start by removing the guides and looking for mating rub marks.

I think longevity is the real downfall of the poly, the WhiteLine kit in my steering rack was blown out at less that 12,000 miles. WL was great about in and sent a replacements for free, but I drive 25K a year, who wants to do that job every 6 months. I'm running stock now.

I wish Subaru and the aftermarket would publish spring and dampening rates, it would be much easer to compare options. On my SpecB I would like to drop the front about 1", the rear is good where its at, tho I suspect it has sagged some to get there. I think the stock SpecB is a great balance between comfort and handling. I would not want to go softer and I could live with slightly firmer. Most of the comparisons I see are based on the standard LGT which is slightly softer than the SpecB so its hard to know how they would feel. Another issue is all the lowering springs are designed for the standard LGT struts which have thinner top hats, you wont get the rated drop on the SpecB front hats. I don't want to spend the time and money to try several setups, so for now I've left it as-is.

Yep, its the internet so its always all talk And I don't really hate all ATs, is just not for me.

I read as far as "automatic transmission", then I didn't care anymore. All that work and they didn't start with a manual or convert? AT = auto tragic.

I will propose the idea that an AOS night be useful to extend the use of a high mileage engine. My original engine went to 305,000 miles (all stock) and was retired due to knock caused by oil in the intake. I did not have the AOS at the time, but I suspect that it would have helped.

As they said, not worth the effort. The wiring harness alone requires gutting the entire dash down to the firewall, included the whole HVAC system.

I think you can get to the cable under the finder liner, but without sacrificing the cable I don't know there is much you can do from there. I would start with the suggested latch lubing and have someone push on the hood as you pull the lever.