Th3Franz

Yeah I put them in a post on the previous page. I'm planning to finish wiring it all up on Wednesday. pin: Sumitomo HX|SL|DL Sealed Series 090(2.3mm) 1.25-2.0mm2 Female Terminal [Copper/Tin] 9882 http://www.newunitedracetech.com/shop/sumitomo-hxsldl-sealed-series-09023mm-12520mm2-female-terminal-coppertin-p-9882.html?cPath=19_658_676_681_931 Sumitomo HX/HW/DL/SL Sealed Series 090(2.3mm) Wire Seal 1.7-2.4mm2 [Green] 5mm Dia 10057 seal: http://www.newunitedracetech.com/shop/sumitomo-hxhwdlsl-sealed-series-09023mm-wire-seal-1724mm2-green-5mm-dia-p-10057.html

I see now that Turkeylord tried what I had in mind. No doubt the capacitors would keep the relay latched after the key is turned off. So, I'll tap into the black/red wire. I was just looking at a possible easier/cleaner way, but I know better now.

Kit is going on this week. Had to get a little creative with countersinking the outside of the caliper and using low profile tapered allen bolts. I'll post pics once the install is complete. I'm also sorting out small issues with the new engine build, but getting real close to having a road worthy car again.

The factory fuel pump relay is in the passenger kick panel. Might be trickier to run the wire from there to the FP, but maybe not. You still have the problem of the voltage drop through the FPCM harness. Has anyone experimented with running the PWM voltage+ signal from the FPCM straight to the new relay sense input? Most relays have a 25ms delay so with a high frequency PWM signal, the relay should stay latched and not care. I am considering trying this out first. I ran the 12AWG wire from the battery to the fuel pump area. I'm going to perform this experiment this week with extra long wire in case it doesn't work out. Also, a small shunt capacitor could be added to level out the PWM voltage if the relay doesn't stay latched closed.

Spark plugs are fouled on the side where I ran the car briefly with the cam sensor disconnected. Oops. New spark plugs are going in and I will see how the car runs with those first.

Haven't had a chance to install them just yet. Possibly today. I pulled the factory pin out of a spare harness and the mating portion of the pin is the same dimension as the 12awg pin.

It's erratic based on the logs. I can send you the logs later. New GSC S1 cams. I reused all the stock wiring harnesses from the car and reused the original cam sensors that appeared to have no problems prior. I'll check the continuity too. Thanks

It jumps straight there from 0-1 to 53. Driver side is behaving normally. I'll swap them like you said and see where that gets me.

My passenger side cam sensor is reporting 54 degrees of advance intermittently at idle (supposed to be 0) per my logging the VVT advance angle of both sides. I'm going to start with replacing the sensor. The car is idling very rough right now but I'm addressing low fuel pressure and misfiring also.

Received my 12 awg pins today. Will work on hard wiring the pump tomorrow.

Hoping to be there at the end of the month once my new engine is broken in and I am done tuning it.

A bracket was there stock on my 05 LGT. I bought the STI spring and f it its perfectly with the bracket. Straight, looks like the right amount of tension on the spring.

I ordered some pins and seals to try to route the new 12 AWG wire direct to the plug. I pulled a pin out of a spare connector I have for the fuel pump and it looks identical and measurements check out. The ones below accept larger wire. YMMV. I will confirm once I receive the parts. pin: Sumitomo HX|SL|DL Sealed Series 090(2.3mm) 1.25-2.0mm2 Female Terminal [Copper/Tin] 9882 http://www.newunitedracetech.com/shop/sumitomo-hxsldl-sealed-series-09023mm-12520mm2-female-terminal-coppertin-p-9882.html?cPath=19_658_676_681_931 Sumitomo HX/HW/DL/SL Sealed Series 090(2.3mm) Wire Seal 1.7-2.4mm2 [Green] 5mm Dia 10057 seal: http://www.newunitedracetech.com/shop/sumitomo-hxhwdlsl-sealed-series-09023mm-wire-seal-1724mm2-green-5mm-dia-p-10057.html

This is the spring PN: 30546AA060 The bracket PN I thought I saw somewhere in this thread, but it is eluding me.

New Driveline is all in. The LGT bracket for the clutch return spring looks like it works just fine with the 11 STI 6-speed. I bought the STI bracket also, but didn't see a reason to use it unless I'm missing something. Just need to finish wiring up the DCCD controller and put the interior back together. The downpipe bracket fit great, although the threads in my rebuilt trans were stripped in one of the mounting holes. Just wondering, has anyone sheared those tiny bolts that connect the driveshaft to the rear diff due to too much powerrr?

Received my custom brake lines. Should have the kit on the car by the end of the week.

Discovered that the STI shift linkage coupler is different. The trans I bought didn't come with one and neither did the new entire linkage... There are some versions of the STI short shifter linkage that don't have the coupler rod and new joint. So here are some part numbers to keep my sanity and maybe help someone: 35035AG030 x2 633046020 023508000 35046FE010 015608600 35041AE010 35044AG030

I know Mike likes Clutch Master clutches. I have no personal experience with that brand, but he likes to recommend it. I'm running full Group N mounts. If you don't launch the car hard, they are a nice upgrade. I think the Cusco mounts are more aggressive with polyurethane bushings and will hold up to hard launches and abuse better but will add a lot of NVH.

Yeah not meaning to insult you or anything, but your car's peak torque number is inflated quite a bit for those mods and that boost level, even if you are running E85. So that said, a full face ACT XTSS will more than fulfill your needs.

I bought my spec B rear axles from Heuberger Subaru. They had the best price I could find. What turbo are you running? E85 fuel? Trying to determine if your 440 wtq number is inflated or not. The ACT XTSS full face is rated for 510 ft lb of torque at the crank with the 6 speed.

Ah, yeah I was just thinking about the gear determination table.

You can change the revs/mile in the ROM for the ECU.

Started the install of the rear Wilwood kit from the WRX. The LGT upper control arm gets in the way of the bolt going through the adapter bracket. But, the caliper itself is beefy so we are going to tap that directly. The brake lines are too long, so I am going to get some -3AN 10 in. long (end to end) lines made up.

Called it. Do I get a cookie? And yeah.. how'd they mess up the ball joint?

Check the coilovers and ball joints.