Th3Franz

5.0 xt-r? Isn't that too big for a stock location turbo?

I have an 05 stock intake box sitting around. Might be missing a couple bolts though.

Front diff and center diff are totally different. He was asking about adding the front diff to the Spec B trans, which is totally doable. DCCD = driver controlled center differential. I have read mixed comments on running an STI center diff without a DCCD controller. I'm running an 11 STI trans with DCCD. I haven't adjusted the DCCD setting much yet but I can definitely feel the front diff working when cornering hard, even on winter tires Also, the taller 6th gear the Spec B has would be good for highway cruise, but I really like the ratio going from 4th to 5th on the STI 6-speed (07+). I think my new 5th gear will be a blast on the road course compared with the LGT 5MT 5th gear -- I was exceeding 4th gear mph at RA.

I had goodridge lines before too but had to change them.

If they are DOT approved, then the supplier has gone through the process to have the DOT certify the product and they would be able to put the yellow "DOT" tags on them. I think it's just paperwork. As long as the lines are tested and quality made, I don't see an issue with non DOT approved lines. We can't run standard brake lines because you need to have a 3AN end on one side to use the NPT to 3AN fitting the Wilwood caliper comes with. An alternative is to rethread the hole on the caliper to accept the banjo connection, but I didn't want to do this. The WRX lines are 14 in. long, so they are way too long for the Legacy.

This is the Dynapro rear kit I bought. It's for the 02-05 WRX. Wilwood # 140-7006 The other option is to get the Forged narrow superlite rear kit, Wilwood # 140-12878. I chose the Dynapro to maintain front brake bias with the Wilwood 4 piston caliper with stock size rotor. If I upgrade the front to a true BBK 6 pot, then I would have gone with the larger Superlite kit. I bought the Dynapro kit from Eric at brakeswap for around $900 with the WRX line kit. The Superlite is also nearly double that, around $1600. I haven't gotten the bill from my mechanic yet who did the rear brake install, but I think it will be a few hours of labor for grinding the "ears", removing the dust shields, and machining the caliper to fit the allen head machine screws that sit flush. I worked with him on the install and figuring it out. I don't have a detailed parts list at this time, but the main thing is finding a company that can provide the 10 in long 3AN brake lines to work with the kit. I had mine done by a local race shop (Pegasus Auto Racing), so you could order lines from them also. They are not technically "DOT" but they pressure test each line they make and they are great quality, so I trust the lines. This setup is doable if you have a good grinder and access to a drill press. You need the drill press to countersink the holes on the caliper to fit the flat head allen screw so that it clears the upper part of the knuckle. With the larger Superlite kit, maybe the extra .75" diameter will help it clear, but I doubt it. So, total invested in just parts for the rear brake kit is $900 for the kit + $60 for the custom lines + $20 for additional hardware. Figure 3 hours or so in labor if you have all the tools available. If there's interest in a group buy, maybe we could order a bunch of kits, do the machining (we'd have to open the boxes), and then send them out. If I can find a source of "DOT-approved" brake lines with the correct length, then it would be pretty easy. Eric and I were trying to work with Technafit on this but they weren't being very responsive.

More pictures. 1. Special 10 in. long end to end brake line. Probably could have used a straight, but I opted for a 45 deg. fitting on the end to fit the 90 degree NPT to 3AN fitting on the caliper. 2. Shot of the top of the bracket. 3. Brake pads line up nicely with the outer edge of the rotor. You can see the 90 degree brake line fitting the Wilwood kit comes with. 4. Clears stock wheels no problem. damn, I should have gone even bigger. I'd say the brake bias of this Dynapro kit matches nicely with the brakeswap 4 piston front kit with stock size rotors. Oh, and the overall pedal feel is amazing with fixed calipers all around.

Just wanted to say thanks to the original guys who first started doing the 6MT swap and contributing to the thread. I'm breaking in the new engine and rebuilt trans and so far am very pleased. I have tested the handling of the car a little bit and it's pretty sweet feeling the LSDs go to work. The MapDCCD controller is functioning nicely also. I've just been running it in auto so far but will customize some preset maps soon.

Installed an 05 STI booster and master cylinder and drove around. The brake pedal itself feels amazing. When I hit the pedal hard though, the brakes feel weaker than they should be. Any suggestions on adjustment? We adjusted the rod toward the brake booster and it seemed to have improved it somewhat.

Did more troubleshooting tonight. Checked continuity for the cam sensor. It's good. Disconnected the oil control solenoid valve on the side giving the most problems and the car ran the best it's run yet. Plugged it back in, and it started acting up. So, I'm either going to use the other pair of used ones that were in working condition with 95k miles or buy a pair of new ones. I think I'll buy new ones. Opposedforces lists two part numbers.. can I use either one? Are driver and passenger side the same? 10921AA020, 10921AA080

Still had to step down the wire size a little bit but the pins worked.

My fuel pressure regulator gauge was bad. The old gauge was only reading 30 PSI. New gauge was showing a spike of 58 PSI fuel pressure at idle after doing this mod. Oops. Fixed that now and dropped the duty cycle. Much better!

http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=10052 I posted a video on that thread also. I am going to try adjusting the delta values in the map and see where that gets me. The throttle response on the car now is amazing.. probably causing the idle to overshoot and undershoot it's target so it just oscillates back and forth.

I didn't change much in the new map, just reverted my idle air flow settings since I didn't at first realize the problem was the cam sensor. Before the cams my car would have a flat line AFR and manifold relative pressure. I'll post a separate thread about that on RomRaider.

Replaced the sensor. Reflashed a new map. 2 run cycles later and the car is running the best since dropping in the new engine. Both sensors are reading 0-1 degrees at idle like they should with my map. I noticed a Mitsubishi logo on the sensor.. that's the problem right there! Anyway, idle is not as smooth as I'd like but it's much better. I'm hoping to dial in the cams some more but the manifold pressure is oscillating right now. I drove the car on the road for the first time with the new build, and it drives pretty well now! Screen shot of idle right now. any thoughts? I think adjusting idle stability may help.

rear kit is on. Took some finessing but pleased with the result. Still need to bed them in but I drove on them and didn't crash into anything.

Looking back I'm quoting your post for me to reference later. Check continuity between all 3 wire combinations to each other?

When I ran xp8's on stock calipers those squealed like crazy. XP8's are a track pad.. can't expect them to be quiet no matter what caliper they are in.

I'll take a log tonight after we replace the sensor. Nothing changed with the harness or pinout.. do you still think I should check that?

I installed my fuel pump hard wire tonight and ran the car. The new pins fit in the stock fuel pump harness. 12 awg wire is a good fit for the pins I posted. The seals were a tight fit though and I also had to trim a little bit of the white plastic piece that goes on the plug to properly recess in place. I didn't upgrade earth wire from the FPCM just yet. Going to measure the voltage tomorrow. I'll upload a couple pics once I clean it up a little better. Just wanted to get the connections and test done.

Fuel pump rewire is done. New spark plugs are in. Car is still misfiring on 1 and 3. Logger shows the advance angle at 53-54 again with the original cam sensor. I am putting a new sensor in tomorrow.

Fuel Pump plug only. I didn't look into the FPCM pins, since they need to be spliced/tee'd anyway. Correct me if I'm wrong, but you still want +batt power to the FPCM for proper PWM manipulation of the ground wire.

Very nice SBT. Using your diagram for a quick reference when I do my install tonight

I'm installing the DW kit later today. The relay looks decent enough with pig tail wires. Solder and heat shrink the other wires and go.

Rewiring the fuel pump this evening and will run the car with new spark plugs. Will log the cam advance angle and see how she runs.