BoozeRS05

Another reason to keep your old Legacy around: https://dnyuz.com/2024/03/11/automakers-are-sharing-consumers-driving-behavior-with-insurance-companies/

Send it out to a good Subaru shop? An experienced mechanic could likely accomplish these items for a couple hundred bucks I’d think.

If @Holla doesn’t grab the exterior driver door handle I’d likely take it. And I’d snag the battery cover if willing to split them, plus the turbo heat shield

Important to note that rear bar is not legacy fit, it’s for an Impreza I know it’s in the description but I almost made the accident of messaging you before looking and it’s worth repeating

That was parts and labor, and I was able to cash in car rental costs worth about $450 of the total.

The damage wasn’t too bad, she just brushed into me as she was backing up. I’m not going to fix the fender, the car has 184k miles and some scars are acceptable to me. The damage was estimated around $3k and the doors were $1k.

Pretty off-topic, but I replaced the rear door on my Forester yesterday. Gonna do the front door another time, have to remove the bumper and fender. Some lady backed into my car around thanksgiving, and I grabbed a nice set of silver passenger doors at a local junk yard. The $2k I’m saving from the insurance will just about cover my wagon repairs, which is wonderful. Also I went to a gathering with my GF last night and her friend has a little garage. He let me drive his M3 s65, and then his STi typeRA, which is track prepped. The M3 was amazing. The STi was a monster. Great experience

I agree with all this ^ too. If you’re going to keep driving it, run another oil change or two, cheap oil and filters will be fine, but cycle it through a couple times. You’ll still be broken down in 3k miles I bet though

My cousin recently got a CorollaGR and he loves it. He has a very nice EJ20 swapped GC coupe that I doubt he’ll keep since getting the Corolla.

Oh there’s metal in other places, do a UOA with blackstone to verify (https://www.blackstone-labs.com/products/free-test-kits/). The cam gears and oil cooler are definitely not cleaned out, even the oil pan will hold metal after flushing. These will all be replaced with a new motor. Wish you the best of luck, but you have a ticking time bomb on your hands is my bet too. And please don’t try to sell it to someone else as a running car.

There’s a good bit of info on these questions just from doing basic searches online. In the long run you’ll want to understand these things for yourself and pick a setup that suits your preferences. If you want to get your feet on the ground you have a basic idea of what will fit and function very well.

Msprank has noted the stiffer pitch stops can actually crack the firewall during normal operation iirc.

You stated that you didn’t want to mod the fenders and you’re lowered. The option for upgrading which I provided is mild, and would look and fit great. If you want to go beyond that you’re more than welcome. I personally run a 17x8 +48 with a 235/45/17 and a 3mm spacer in the rear. I’m lowered with stock fenders. My wheel’s weigh 15.5lbs, and I run a 17” wheel bc my roads suck plus I like the performance aspect of a smaller diameter wheel. I’ll likely size down to a 225/45/17 tire next bc my fronts rub with aggressive loading. I’ve tried probably 2 dozen different wheel and tire setups over 12 years with my wagon.

I’ll be keeping an eye on this, good pricing

18x8 +48 with 225/40/18 would look and fit great. Or size down to a 17x8 +48 and 225/45/17.. 18” for better appearance, and 17” for better performance. Neither should require fender work or additional camber to fit. Weight will make a dramatic difference too, under 20lbs wheel weight ideally.

Nooo, I know that would never happen. It would be a crime to disassemble your LGT anyway. Hope you get the issue sorted though, lemme know if I can lend a hand.

Sounds like you should probably just part it out… Dibs on the turbo, trans, and I’ll take your wheels. Ahh I’ll just take the whole thing

A panel filter, catback exhaust and Cobb stg1 is a great place to start. I kept my first LGT sedan there (including a catless uppipe) for the first 50k miles I had it, and while I did everything else I wanted.

Does the front crossmember brace replace anything or does it just bolt-in/over the existing front crossmember?

An aftermarket/cold air intake is completely unnecessary and would required advanced tuning. The stock intake works great, feel free to add a nice panel filter. The stock BPV works great, no need to change or try to upgrade. A boost controller requires advanced tuning and is unnecessary. If you get into more power upgrades it’ll be something to consider. All you really want is a downpipe (preferably catted) and catback exhaust, then load up stg2 on the AP and run the best octane gas available in your area. It’s that simple.

They’re going to check the heads and make adjustments if necessary, but we’re not too worried about them. Rarely get misfires and I replaced the oil control valves with a lightly used set of OEM units awhile ago, VVT has always been spot on.

Little update to my wagon. I’ve contacted a local shop who’s given me a quote for an extensive list of repairs. I’ve been on the fence about whether I should take on this project myself or send it out, and I’ve concluded that I’d rather not try to do it myself. My current motor has 200k miles, but it compression tested at 150psi/cylinder at 175k miles, and I have 10 years of UOAs without any warning signs. I have a slightly used EJ257 short block and spare B25 heads that need rebuilt, but I think I’m going to let the OE motor ride with this list of repairs: Full motor reseal - head gasket, valve cover, rear main, cam seals, TV gaskets, etc. - Master gasket set to be provided PCV assembly and breather hoses - most to be provided Oil pan - new pan to be provided, basic reseal Motor mounts - to be provided Timing belt, pulleys and tensioner - to be provided, approx 14k miles on slightly used equipment Clutch - to be provided with new OEM TOB Turbo - to be provided Uppipe - to be provided. All manifold gasket should be nearly new, some are Grimmspeed New side feed iniectors to be provided Water pump and Oil pump on hand if needed I’m looking at approx $2250 for the labor, and I’m providing all the parts. The shop I’ve spoken to seems like they are very capable, Subaru master mechanic. Any thoughts or opinions are welcome.

Looks like the secondary pipe of the downpipe, goes before the midpipe. It’ll usually be accompanied by the pipe that connects to the turbo. One without the other isn’t the best situation, but it should still be very sellable to someone. It’s a quality part, and it’ll fit many Subarus, not just a LegacyGT. My downpipe is also two pieces, but I doubt this would fit with mine. It might fit other 2 piece downpipes though and it appears to be 3” the whole way through.

How many miles on the chassis and what part of PA? PMP does solid work and car looks thoughtfully put together. I’d grab it depending how close you are to me.