BoozeRS05

Installed mine today, but haven’t started it up just yet. I used Mike’s method to break the bolt free (5th gear and chocked the back tires), which worked great, but when torquing it down there’s a lot of movement. I’m a little concerned the spec isn’t accurate, but it’s on there nice and tight.

Yeah I had that issue before with a replacement bearing long ago, but CC was unusable for me at that point bc acceleration would pulse uncomfortably. It wasn’t just a bit jerky like you mentioned

Have you replaced any wheel bearings recently?

I swear all of my Koni struts have 1.5 turns of adjustment, just checked them the other day

I made a 5” horizontal cut in the interior there on each side and it acts as a panel to get at the rear upper strut mounts. I can pull it back from the seat portion and it folds open with the carpet. Hardly noticeable in the back there Little ashamed of this and somewhat proud too

199,700 miles as of this morning. OE motor and trans. Turbo was swapped at 192k bc it was pushing a little oil, but it worked great

Will I be able to trim the timing cover lip without removing it? I was thinking I’d stuff some clean towels in the cover while I cut the lip off to keep shavings and bits from getting in there

Yeah, I know I should have gotten back to you by now. If you’re around this week I’ll make the drive up, bring my wagon if the weather is nice

I swapped out my rear FA coilovers for a lightly used Koni/H&R setup I purchased couple months back. I’ve been missing a stiffer suspension and I’m much happier already. I’ll do the front assemblies once I have an alignment appt booked.

I haven’t been able to use my Primitive plate for YEARS bc the front subframe mounting bolts had come loose from salt and rust. So the other day I had a mobile welder over and two hours later it was good to go. Little paint touch up and some cleaning, put everything back together. Very satisfied for a part I don’t ever see

Idk if this has any actual impact, but I always drive with my parking lights on, and I’ll use the brightness toggle during the day on the carputer. Seems to balance the light output better on the JDM dd. Wish my Forester had the same button.

Best of luck with it! I’d buy it in a heartbeat if I were shopping for one

I was convinced I’d repaint my calipers another color (black), but yeah the Brembo gold has really grown on me. I might even go with it again once they need refinished.

The bolts are usually pretty easy going with an impact/breaker bar, it’s removing the hub bearing assembly that can be tricky. You’ll almost certainly want a bearing removal tool on hand and a sledge/impact hammer.

PCV assembly was replaced around 115k miles. Intake is pretty damn dry, just a thin layer of film forms, but nothing pooling inside the TB hose or inside the tmic. I’d need to pull the motor and do everything, but at that point I have another shortblock and B25 heads on my shelf.

199,400 miles on my wagon, getting so close… I’m very tempted to completely reseal and run it on the OE motor until it NEEDS to be replaced. It feels strong, sounds great and recent UOA was excellent, but damn it smokes a lot after about 30-45 mins of driving.

My dealership/SoA covered a large repair on my brake lines with like 175k miles and it was two years ago. My right rear line blew out coming to a stop and fluid was dumping out. I drove directly to the dealership and they fixed it within a couple days. Didn’t pay a dime. I do have a good relationship with my local dealership and the service department. I think the billed cost was around $1400. All previous recalls completed including that brake like wax. Also worth noting, I am far from stock. Rolled it in with Brembos and all kinds of suspension work and clearly modded for power, etc.

Not in the cards for me unfortunately. Two trips planned this month already and I’ll be tapped out on vacation days for the summer. There’s a big import meet at 7Springs over Labor Day weekend, which is my local ski resort, but I’ll be out of town for it too. I bet it would be a fun event though, pretty bummed I’ll miss it.

I have a Boss BV755 something or other with my JDM DD, and it’s been pretty damn solid for a couple years now. I didn’t want anything fancy, but the basic bells and whistles, which it has. The volume button sticks and isn’t accurate, but I lubed it and use the remote most of the time. I’m pretty sure it was around $150 with sales and coupons too. The thing works great for being so cheap. I’ll upgrade when/if it ever stops working.

Thanks bro! You give to the forum, the forum gives back

I’m gonna do something like that soon. My seatbelt is black so it’s hard to tell, but I’m certain it’s not clean. I did wash and wax both my cars the other day, otherwise pretty uneventful lately. Too hot outside to work on cars

It was all done before I bought my wagon so idk what the trick is, but my DRLs are off and I usually drive with all my parking lights on, the first switch. I’d love my fogs to come on with the parking light switch though.

That would be awesome, but I’d really hope neither of you have to go out of the way. Code is only 25 min from me so it would be helpful

If you’re paying attention to your data logs I’d say it’s probably fine to swap similar downpipes for daily use. Although I wouldn’t be going full WOT until properly tuned. Also when removing the downpipe, in my experience always start with the nut underneath. People struggle with it bc they undo all the others first and it puts a lot of weight on that bottom bolt. I’ve learned it’s best to start at the bottom

I should be down that way again in the next month, but if they’re taking up space and you can find them a home by all means. I still owe Johnny a chunk of change for the heads I took home, but I’m having no luck selling my D25 heads. Price is down to $950 for fully rebuilt heads, which I feel like is a good deal