BoozeRS05

Yeah I’m sure a lot of it is the angle adjustment, but I live in a rural area and if I’m being blinded by another car it’s a newer Legacy or Outback 75% of the time. Newer Ford pickups are great at it too.

The newest Subaru headlights are waaay too bright, it’s absurd, Outback’s and Legacy’s..

Load up the stage one tune when you get your Cobb AP, in my opinion it’s better than the OEM map. If you add a downpipe, which I’d recommend, you can go to the stage two tune without much concern for reliability. I feel like the Cobb off the shelf maps are quite safe. Go slow would be my advice. Don’t just focus on power mods. A short shifter and rear sway bar are as much fun to me as adding more hp. A cold air intake and BOV are worthless when starting out in my experience. The car is 16 years old so I’d recommend starting with a full maintenance overhaul. Go over the fluids, spark plugs, coil packs, hoses and gaskets, drivetrain, suspension, all bushings, control arms, brakes, etc.. Do these things before trying to make it faster in my opinion

What do people think it’s worth? I had a conversation with a couple Subaru guys today (one of which has an 05 WRX wagon) and a well kept turbo manual wagon seems to be working their way up in price. I wonder what mines worth all the time.

If you view the side glass windows at certain angles you might see water spotting that doesn’t come off with traditional cleaners. My wagon has it pretty bad and I’ll definitely try some of the products mentioned. I can’t comment on the windshield specifically bc mine just needs replaced it’s so badly pitted and weathered. I finally removed the frozen UP sensor from the Cobb UP boxkitty sent me. Replaced some studs, and a Perrin UP blanket I got from hicksta waaay back. Hopefully have it installed soonish.

I read about an interesting work around for the TGV issue. Literally have them wired up and functioning, but located somewhere in the trunk of the car. The car will think they’re present and functional, bc they will be technically, but just not in the engine bay. At which point you can run whatever TGV and top feed setup you wish.

Thankfully I have all of you guys and the best Subaru forum on the planet in my back pocket if I run into troubles! I don’t think I’d be too far behind on the investment if it goes sideways Aaaand that went poorly. They put it on a lift for me to inspect and I drove it less than 2 miles before turning around to take it back. Misfires on all cylinders, haggard acceleration, aftermarket wiring all over the place, mismatched tires that don’t fit, it’s in bad shape.

I’ve heard their stuff is great. One of the better all around products in most reports. I looked at an 08 STi hatch today, but it’s priced low bc it’s in rough shape. Maybe take a chance on it for the right price though…

I’ll eventually try flocking the dash that I remove. Once that haziness takes over the dash will start to crack around the thin areas (near vents, cubby and odometer). It’s not pretty. I’ll fill the cracks and maybe remove the top layer that gets sticky. In the meantime I got a CoverCraft dash cover, which I think looks great, but is an average bandaid at best. I think it was $60 on sale

While I was driving my wagon every day the dash was pristine. When I stopped driving it and started garaging is when my dash got hazy and second stage is cracking. Even when I start driving it during the spring thru fall it goes back to looking like new again. Except for all the cracks it has now. About two years ago I got a total from the local dealership of $1000 for parts and labor replacement. SoA offered me a $500 credit, which I put towards a new dash to install myself one day.

I sold my 04 STi to purchase my LGT wagon well over a decade ago. While my wagon doesn’t have a 6mt it’s very fun to drive and the 5mt is a great transmission like Jonny mentioned, capable of 300whp all day. I’ve driven an LGT STi 6mt, and with an STi or specB 6mt the LGT or OBXT wagons would be an absolute blast. Adding some bolt-ons and suspension, it would be comparable to the STi in my opinion and 300whp is relatively easy to achieve. Also you’d have something completely unique and I bet you’d love it. Cost wise, you’ll be waaay under a newer STi. I’d 100% say go for it, and I almost guarantee you’d be very happy with your decision. We are pretty (very) biased here about our cars so take all of this for what it’s worth. Also your auto insurance cost will be cut in half or more.

I’ve done work on BMWs without complaint, but to be fair I’ve never wrenched on an Audi or VW. I just look at Subaru’s as big kid Legos. Everything seems obvious and simple, and it’s all been roughly the same for decades. When tribeca parts fit an outback, and STi parts fit the legacy and foresters, etc, it all seems so wonderful to me.

Most of the modding on a Subaru can be done with a basic wrench set. Buying specialty tools seems like adding insult to injury. I think my buddy had to remove his BMW motor to fix a coolant leak or something. Audi and VW seem excessively complicated too.

I don’t understand why any sane person would go from Japanese to German engineering. Seems like a massive headache unless it was truly worthwhile, aka a Porsche.

Meet up in the middle and grab a late lunch or something. I’ll keep you posted depending on how my day goes

Supposed to rain heavily the next two days (wash away the salt) and then be 60* on Friday. Already excited to pull my wagon out of the garage, maybe even wash it for no reason

You have the right idea in my opinion, keep it near stock and enjoy the car around 280whp. I don’t see local regulations and EPA issues going away or getting less restrictive anytime soon. So passing inspections and not becoming absolutely reliant on tuning needs seems like a good idea into the future. I will say if you’re doing all the fueling stuff I’d maybe consider a fuel pressure gauge too. Also I was able to find a used AVO high flow fuel pump, which is a drop in unit and doesn’t require modding/hacking the OEM pump. They aren’t cheap, but seems like an good fix for me.

Cryotune performance in Arvada. Dave’s a long time member here and I’m sure he can help with your questions/needs

Rockauto has one set of aluminum mevotech front control arms on close out, ~$50 each.. I was gonna grab them as backups, but seems overkill

I can see pics now, but you can do better than that. Get some interior pics, undercarriage, rear arches, engine bay, etc.. I’m headed to NYC in two weeks, maybe I’ll scoop it up on my way home

I’d suggest posting your location and pictures. I’ve stripped and sold one of these in the past. You have to put in SOME effort, but I got everything I needed from mine. I’d buy it depending on price, location, condition

I was gonna say the same thing. Hold the gas pedal to the floor while cranking and it won’t turn over. I also do this if my wagon has been sitting awhile, like it has the last 6 weeks I did recently buy some of the Co23 vacuum T kits to replace under the intercooler and reroute the BPV line.

Oh damn. I did my entire cargo floor, like every square inch of it. I put pieces spaced out in chunks like you’ve done, but only inside the door panels.

Stock MC, but I do have a GS brace, which I feel is worthwhile for the minimal cost. My wagon comes to a blistering halt I didn’t get mine repainted, and I’m regretting that bc they could use it

You’re going to be so happy once it’s all done. LGT brakes are good, but I absolutely love my Brembo setup.