Bobsyouruncl

Entertaining any offer at this point.

bump

That actually sounds good, I like the tone. Is it droney on the highway? Here is that dyno plot... bad pic but it was all I could grab in a hurry that night to get out as they went past close to finish the car. I think this was the boost and AFR. The boost curve has changed since then to more like what I described in the post but you can see the max HP number was 351.7. If I get it back on the dyno I'll post better graphs.

Haven't posted for a while as I've been working through some frustrating issues. The car ended up developing some hesitation and was seeing knock all the time and pulling timing. It was real intermittent and hard to pin down a set of circumstances to help find a cause. I had not checked the valve lash after bolting down the heads and didn't find out until later that's when it needs to be done. I was concerned that this was a contributing factor so I decided to have it checked and after stewing about it for a while ordered a blouch 380xt which was recommend to me by Dom my tuner. I didn't have time to do the work myself so I had the local shop where I had my tuning done do it. They checked the lash and it was within spec but the cams had some strange wear on the tips of the lobes that, while within spec, may have indicated a problem with the head itself. It was suggested to me that they be changed and the heads sent out to a machine shop to be re inspected. I opted to have them replaced as they were another question mark concerning the source of the knock problem. So the heads got sent out and they ordered Kelford B cams for the car installed those and put on the new turbo. I also had them relocate the IAT sensor to the throttle body side of the intercooler. I went to the shop to watch the car get dyno'd again and while there Dom pointed out that my stock intake hose from the filter box was kinked due to the aftermarket turbo inlet tube being longer than stock. They asked if I wanted to throw a Cobb intake on to solve it so I opted for that as well. I had them put the box on it too having heard it can keep inlet temps lower. They threw the car on the dyno and it had an intake leak when idling. They had to fiddle around with that and found it was in the tgv to head seal. They were running out of time as it was getting late, I needed it to drive home that night. So rather than pull it into the shop and tear it down Dom tuned the boost portion of the car and got it safe to drive home. I had to take it back in to get the intake leak fixed. So I opted to get the IAG TGV deletes installed as I had done a home made job and it was another point of possible failure and running issues. I had Tier One do the work again and Dom brushed up the tune on the road. I got the car back and the car ran great......for three days.......then it went to crap again.....was getting pretty frustrated with the car at this point. To be perfectly clear Tier One and Dom were great. No one ever told me they were gonna magically fix the problem with money and parts, they were very honest and upfront about what things could maybe possibly do and what the problem might be but now way of knowing for sure until we try it. I completely understand and don't regret any of the work I had done nor do I hold them responsible for my choices. At this point the AP starting cutting out under load while doing a pull. It would blank out and reset. So I decided to take the car back in to see if that could be fixed and asked them to drive it for a while after to test it. So they did some digging and seemed that bad grounds and electrical noise could cause that and maybe was another symptom of the knock issue I had been having. So they freshened up the leads on the battery and ran a bunch of other grounds. The mechanic and Dom both drove it for quite a while and couldn't repeat the problem so it seemed solved. I picked it up and on the way home on the freeway matted it in 4th, the damn AP cut out again and it threw a CEL. I pulled over and checked the code...it said boost limit exceeded. I wasn't sure why it would have done that so I cleared it and kept driving home. The car ran like crap again. The acceleration was all over the place. The tac needled would like jump up then slow then jump up like it was hesitating or missing. At this point I was getting so frustrated I almost decided to just unload the thing to stop bleeding money. I just parked it for like 2-3 weeks I was so pissed. So I email Dom and ask him if he will take a spin with me so I can show him what I'm talking about and he can tell me if I'm crazy, not knowing if it's normal or if I'm doing something wrong. He said he would. We end up linking up at Tier One and he hops in the car with me. On the way there the DAM had dropped again and was doing weird crap. We drive around for a while and he makes some changes. I do a pull, he logs it and it's perfect. He says that the car should have driven smooth as glass but it was lurching and not smooth at all. So knowing I'm not crazy and there's something not tune related to the car we head back. He has me park and makes a change, then he notices that the front O2 sensor doesn't warm up for a long time after the change despite already being warm. He says, "that's weird." We get back to the shop and he makes another change and I restart the car....it starts misfiring on a cylinder. He goes, "huh we may be seeing a sign of the problem." So the knock and timing issue feels a lot like a misfire or weak spark. He asks me how old the coils and O2 sensor are. They looked like OE so I say that and he says that he generally changed them out at 125000 miles. I ask about suggestions for next steps and he says he would try coils and that O2 sensor since it was acting out of character. I thank him and head out. They suggested that I contact Cobb support about the AP in case it was faulty so I sent it off to Cobb to get checked out. Fast forward a couple weeks, I get time to change the parts out (side note: I was nervous to try and change the coils as I've heard it's a pain ..... It was really easy, I truly don't understand why people complain about it). I change the parts, take the car out and.......runs like a dream. Not a single hitch smooth as butter. I really don't want to hope at this point but I think the problem is solved. It makes sense as when they pulled the heads there seemed to be a lot of carbon on the Pistons despite the motor only being about 5k miles old. Dom had said it was acting like it had a weak spark when he was tuning it once and he has seen AP's reset when using certain plugs ,ie an ignition related problem. The AP is at Cobb so I can't test it out but I think that if I had it it would work fine now. Now I'm waiting to get the AP back and do a few logs to send to Dom to see if it needs to be returned or not. Part of why I'm relating this is to toot Dom's horn....this guy went way out of his way to help me out and spent a lot of time emailing, communicating, and tuning my car to try and work out the issue. He cut me a lot of slack on cost of his services and I'm pretty gratefull for his help. So if you ever need a tune around this neck of the woods he's a good guy to go to. Getadomtune.com is his website. I'll post a pic of the dyno graph when it first got the 380xt but had the intake leak. It spools a couple hundred faster than the 16g and made 352hp 381tq. It boosts to about 23lbs and carries out to redline at about 20.5lbs. The car is pretty wild and I'm pretty happy with the turbo. It's got stock catback exhaust. One day I'd like to put a new catback on it but I don't want a lot of noise. I'd like to go up to 3" for flow and some better spool but don't want a loud annoying car. If anyone made it to the end of this post and has an idea of a good cat back setup that's not a whole lot louder than stock and flows better let me know.

Bumpski

Bump, BNR 16G still for sale, make reasonable offer.

The Vf46 is sold but the BNR is still kicking around.

bump

Hey sorry for the late response, been busy and haven't taken time to get on here. I wanted some more spool and this one seemed to spool a bit slow, after getting the new turbo is it's not much different so the issue seems to be with the car somewhere. In hindsight I'm thinking that I should have stayed with the BNR but it's already out and replaced. It's still available.

bump

Like I said before, I'm open to reasonable offers on either item

Sorry for the delay, I just got the car back and here are the pictures of that 16g. Like I said it has all of 5k miles on it. Just turned out it wasn't my cup of tea.

I'm waiting for the car to come back from the shop from the turbo swap. I will have the BNR then and can post pics of it.

This is the VF46, like I said it failed on me so needs rebuilding. My camera bezel got cracked and I haven't fixed it yet so there is some blur in the pics.

Lol good point threw it up late one night and didn't think to add pics, will do so later.

I'm open to reasonable offers

I've got a failed VF 46 core that I need to get rid of. I'm not really sure what to charge for it so am taking offers. I've also got a BNR 16G with something like 3k miles on it. I wasn't happy with the performance so I decided to try something else. I'd like to get $700 obo shipped for that as it is essentially brand new. VF46 Core SOLD BNR 16g SOLD

I tried to buy that pan from that dude and almost got scammed. I don't know of he was involved but there is something really fishy going on with that post.

So my DAM dropped to .35 and the car was pulling timing like crazy. It was also running like crap on the low end before boost came on.....hesitating and what not. It happened right after it was originally tuned. I thought maybe that was normal but it kept eating at me.....I finally sent a log to my tuner and he said ya the motor looks pissed off. I ended up finding a vaccum hose from the fuel pressure regulator to the Intake I had not zip tied because I never touched it in the build and didn't know it existed. It had blown off. So I fixed it and it drove like a whole new car. I actually hated driving it before. It was hard to launch it from a stop. Throttle was inconsistent and had bad rev hang and shifting was always weird. So I thought maybe it had been tuned that way and the tuner said we better fix it....looks like the timing is too advanced and fueling is off. I took it back to the Dyno. He worked on it a bit and it had the same afr and same boost profile....so it seems it blew off after it was tuned but.....it made more power by quite a bit. 309 peak HP and like 325-330 peak torque....the spool is still garbage can crap but the car runs great, has no knock and seems to be happier I'm still debating what to do about a turbo, probably gonna replace it someday sooner rather than later. I'm just not happy with the spool. I highly recommend anyone NOT buy a BNR turbo....wish I would have known before I bought of their bad reputation and went another way.

I Just put raxles on my rig both fronts. They seem fine, a lot of people swear by them for remans. In and out is normal. They are meant to elongate at the upper joint. I've heard upper join wear can cause vibrations in the wheel and lower you will hear clicking and grinding. You can reboot them but you have to be sure you put all the innards in the boot back exactly where you took them off as they wear into the cup over the years and will certainly vibrate or fail if you swap the bearings back to the wrong races.

I heard the upper axle joints can cause this as well

Read this: https://crawfordperformance.com/blogs/tech/everything-you-need-to-know-about-your-subaru-engine Call the guys at flatirons tuning and ask them what they think. I bought most of my parts from them and spent a lot of time with them on the phone and they were always very helpful. New short block, pull heads and take to good machine shop for cleaning, machining inspection and replacement of valve train parts as necessary.

Correct me if I'm wrong but 350 wheel is a wild build with a top mount. Anything more iirc requires going front mount. Then your talking more than just "bolt ons?" You really need to start with your budget and work from there. Think about doing things that require pulling motor or trans while it's out. 350 is about the threshold for an OE block iirc anything under that it can handle just fine from what I read. I'm not expert tho so take that with a grain of salt. You can do 300 with stock manifolds, up pipe (catless which you should have),aftermarket DP, stock cat back, new TMIC and a "mild" turbo: VF 52 or equivalent. You will be stretching the limits of stock injectors and pump. Your 18g should do 320-350ish with Injectors, fuel, DP, new TMIC from what I've seen. The turbo is a sizeable chunk of your budget so if you can use what you have and it's in good shape you may as well. That 18g can potentially get you close to what you want. You don't "need" an AOS, many people run without one but they are nice and can potentially mitigate some knock and oil consumption risk. They are $400ish so not exactly cheap. I highly recommend IAG street from my limited experience vs my friends with a competitors. Shooting for 300 whp might put you between 9-11k all said and done. When I did my build I went full send on replacing almost everything down to the avcs cam bolts. You don't have to do that but you should clean everything oil touched very thouroghly. If you cant open it up, clean it and put it back together you should replace it. This was my experience https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/new-07-spec-b-owner-possible-turbo-failure-need-education-286096.html

Ya all of these seem to come on boost much earlier, with similar builds.

seriously doubt that ported heads cause a 1000 rpm swing in spool. I was told these turbos aren't great and the evidence bears it out in my opinion.