Bobsyouruncl

Can you define "big boost" and "street car," I keep hearing that but wonder what a "safe threshold" might be. Crawford says that it's one of the #1 causes of ring land failure, I know there's some marketing hype there but i don't really know.

So I ordered an invidia catted DP cuz it was in stock. Most people I talked to said the same thing....not a lot of differences and most reputable brands are perfectly fine. I've been reading up on air oil separators. I'm wondering about people's experiences with them and without them. I've read they can help mitigate pre ignition and ringland failure over the long haul. That appeals to me but how much "better' over stock are they really? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Still waiting on my parts to ship...getting pretty antsy

I love that you said "douchey" haha

Do you guys have any DP recommendations? I went with 1050cc Bosch injectors a new aem 325lph fuel pump, a GS TMIC, might as well keep blowing cash at this point ..... I'm wondering about divorced vs not, catted vs catless, brand differences and anything else that pertains. I had a friend that had an ATC Street stage 2 clutch kit for $450 which was $175 less than retail. I found out I can put an 04+ STI flywheel on this car so I ordered a new one. Ended up going with the BNR 16g Evo turbo, called and talked to him and appreciated the time he spent educating me and the service he provided so went that route for not much more reason than that. Heads are at the head shop waiting to hear back. At this point I'm waiting on parts from flatiron, it's all ordered less the misc crap I'll find as I rebuild, coolant and vacuum hoses and what not. I'll post pics as I rebuild and pray I don't eff it up. Bryan at BNR gave me a contact for open source etuning and I'm debating doing that or going to tier one here. I don't think I want to spend $700 on an access port but am not decided yet. Any input would be appreciated.

TB hose available? I'm interested

Apparently right before I bought it the top cap on the radiator exploded, I'm assuming it washed the whole engine bay!! The water pump and timing set are new. I'm wondering what everyone thinks about reusing the timing belt. It has less that 5k on it, I think even less but that's conservative. I'm not enjoying the price tag.

Ended up having to compress them, file size was too large

Do you still have the pan and pickup? I am interested in them if you do

Do you still have the inlet tube? I am interested in buying.

Here are some pics The pic of the car is from the day it died, I went for a drive up to the lake lol, the rest are just tear down pics. I have the heads off and they are in the shop, I'm about to blow my wad on parts today..... I think I've landed on a TGV detletes, a new TMIC and injectors at this point. I have a catless up and have read there are not much differences from an aftermarket piece and it seems I can upgrade the rest later pretty painlessly. Well apparently I can't upload pics now.... some security token thing...frustrating

I think I've exceeded the 15 posts requirement, I started a thread asking for information regarding the build. I may be up against the time requirement. I'm wondering if that can be lessened?

I've got the same issue. I'd like to post to express interest in buying some thing as I'm rebuilding my motor. I'm wondering if the process could.be sped up so I don't miss the opportunity to purchase some items.

Anyone know about the secondary air delete? Also, if you do a tgv delete do you cap off the connectors?

Ok

Why an STI flywheel?

That's kinda the mystique of the gt or spec b imo, love that sleeper aspect. Unassuming but capable. I have a friend I do long road trips with. I really just want a fun car that I can be in the middle of nowhere with and rely on for the next 150-200k miles. Another question, is there any market for my short block and blown turbo?

What do you guys know about deleting the oil cooler? A builder in town mentioned it, he said it's just a contaminant catch. I called flat iron and they recommend going 255, no difference but piston dish size but it's only $90 different so I'll probably go that way for piece of mind.

Can anyone speak to this definitively? The ej257 is generally $1000 cheaper but I don't want fitment or compression/pre ignition issues from getting the wrong short block. Seems to me from what shralp says, on stock fueling and mostly stock bolt ons stock clutch should be ok? Does anyone know what model years wrx and STI have direct fitment with legacy gt and spec b of my model year? Is there a wiki of direct crossover"upgrades"? I ask because, shralp, you mention having a WRX flywheel. Makes me wonder where you can save some cost over aftermarket by going oem of a different model?

Thanks for that I messaged him, I'm wondering what the difference between the ej255 and ej257 are? In the limited time I have, I've got the motor just about ready to pull out and it's about time to start ordering parts. I tried searching for a perrin version but couldn't find anything. Anyone have any recommendations on injectors? not sure I'm gonna do them but It seems a pita to get them out later and if I am I may as well now. Also I'm gonna look the clutch over but suggestions on clutch would be helpful as well. Like I said I'm not looking for crazy power but want that door to be open. Correct me If I'm wrong but stock can do fine up to 300is whp? Not really shooting for that just wondering the threshold, or if there is a reasonable upgrade what might it be?

Does anyone know any other TMIC offerings than grimmspeed?

Thanks guys, I appreciate you taking time to reply, you've given me a bit to chew on and I enough to at least start in a direction. I'm more of the "play it safe" type and will most likely head in that direction. I have a good mechanic here in town that I have used for years and talked to him today about the head work and short block. When I hear back from him I'll have a little more to go on. I think my upgrade aspirations may need to be shelved a bit for the moment budget depending. Like I said though its not too much of a letdown as I don't have that high of ones to begin with.

Couple questions: What is a TGV delete? Would you guys mind posting part links or numbers? Pleides, when your car crapped out what extent did you go to in the rebuild with the rods bearings and cams? From what you guys say VF52 is the ticket but I've read that people are unsatisfied with the boost taper at higher revs. I've read that the BNR turbos hold boost longer and have similar low range response. The 16G is supposed to be a bit milder but have good low rpm uptake and holds boost to higher revs. I'm wondering if anyone can speak to the differences and weigh the pros and cons here. The reason I think I don't want a new stock turbo is because I've read that it is undersized for the potential of the motor and mostly because its a poor design that's prone to failure. Is that an accurate statement? Just to clarify, I'm not looking to make a bunch of power here, and based on what you guys are telling me my options are dwindling. I really didn't mind how the car drove stock. I don't race around town, I'm too old for that, and I'm not going to the track with this car. I primarily bought it for a daily and for long road trips. My primary concerns are a reliable fun car that I can wring out on some windy backroads when I find them. I'd like to find a little more power over stock and have maybe the potential to amp it up one day when the wife wrath over the rebuild subsides. Again, I'm not interested in doing fuel upgrades right now, I want to stay with TMIC indefinitely as it seems the cheaper option long terms and horse power limitations are satisfactory to me. I also don't want to have to upgrade clutch at this time and won't dial the car up to a point I would need to do that until sometime in the future, if at all. My car supposedly has a catless UP and I'm wondering if I have to replace that because of something to do with mating to the VF52 turbo or if its just to wring the most out of the turbo. I guess to sum it up you guys are telling me that at minimum I replace the turbo, clean out the motor, roll the dice on the cams and rod bearings. Since the motor is at 150k maybe I need rings soon. Or, maybe it spins a rod bearing, the cams bearing surfaces fail or the turbo blows up and I'm back here where I started but really only out the cost of the turbo replacement and the motor flush? The downside being I'm gambling that it won't all go up in smoke in 10k miles. Or, I go all in and rebuild or replace the bottom end, reman the heads and valve train, replace the turbo and have peace of mind knowing that everything is basically new and not gonna fail for a few thousand miles. Am I off base or does that sound accurate? Also, again if anyone has tuner and mechanic recommendations in the Spokane, Wa area that would be helpful. I might be willing to pull the motor and bring it to Portland though if I can't find anyone reputable around here.

I've read through all the stickies and the tech thread. I read them all before I posted.

Drained the oil and coolant today and this is what I found.... didn't have time for much more. Oil from the filter. The pan oil looks similar but a bit less full of metal.

Hello, I recently bought an '07 Spec b with 150,000 miles. To my knowledge its all stock. Shortly after buying it it developed a bit of a hesitation under acceleration. I wasn't sure what to make of it and was trying to work through the problem. I was still driving the car and was out on some back roads for a drive when I suddenly lost power and there was a "whirring" sound when I would try to accelerate. I stopped the car and the motor was running fine no sign of drivetrain issues I was sure the turbo had crapped out. I was out of cell service and out in the woods a ways so I had to limp it 10-15 miles to a safeway parking lot where I parked it for the night and got a ride home. I came back the next day with a flat bed and towed it home. I'm going to start tearing into it today but need some direction. I've got moderate mechanic experience and plenty of aptitude but have not dealt with turbos much and feel a little daunted by what I've read in some of these threads regarding turbo failure and its possible engine failure consequences. I'm also a little overwhelmed with all the tuning options available and am not sure where to start with replacement parts. I also have no idea where to go to source particular parts. I've done some reading up and I have searched here for information but would like some pointed advice. I know I don't want to go back to the stock turbo, I daily drive this thing and want it to be "streetable." I like driving fast but I don't need a race car or a drag racer, I like tinkering, when I have time, and enjoy upgrading to a degree so would like to have some future upgrade potential but at this time don't want to change fuel components or full exhaust if I don't need to. The car may need new headgaskets as I have been told by a mechanic that they are "weeping but not leaking" and to keep an eye on them. I have a budget of 2-3k but prefer 2k. My intent is to max out performance on stock fueling and clutch at some point but want to balance power upgrades with handling upgrades. Right now the main focus is using what budget I have to get the car running with some peace of mind that I did my due diligence to ensure as much future reliability as I can. So I guess the question is.... Would it be wise to pull the motor now and go through it? All gaskets and seals, with part recco's. How critical is it to replace the oil pan and cooler and flush the motor and how wild do people go in trying to see if turbo debris is in the motor? What turbo would people recommend given my stated criteria? I have been looking at the BNR 16g with their in house oiling solution and would appreciate feedback on that particular turbo and suggestions of others. What upgrades to turbo oiling are necessary and available? What intake and exhaust mods are good at this point and what are the plus's to replacing them, with part recco's? Should I replace the TMIC now and what are good parts? If I just replace my turbo and nothing else do I need a "tune" and what does that entail? Do I need a COBB access port or some other tuner or can the ECU be flashed? Does anyone have tuner recco's for Spokane, Wa area? I hate just taking my stuff to someone I don't know. Basically I need knowledgeable people who have experience with these things to tell me what to expect if in my situation and help steer me away from pitfalls and problems.