Bobsyouruncl

Ya I mean look at max's power curve comes on hard at 3200 and mine doesn't peak till 4300, that's terrible, and it aint my car. My mods should handle a much quicker spool and the motor is brand new. It makes a slight bit more peak power but it's pretty much useless below 3k rpm. I talked to the tuner and he told me yesterday that the "boost control on the dyno was pretty bad." He then told me what could cause that "poor actuator volume to spring ratio actuator to door surface area Excessively high back pressure EBCS issues all sorts of things. Overall, it's common on crappy turbos." I have a brand new GS EBCS and there's no indication that there is anything awry with it. The hose routing is clean it comes up on duty cycle cleanly and maintains properly according to AP gauges, not sure if that means anything or not but it's unlikely that it is the culprit.

He said "get a new turbo" He originally recommended a blouch 380xt. He said a kinugawa might be good, barring those two a vf52 would be better. I had already bought this one and he strongly advised against running it. I see now why. I didn't want to wait on back order and threw it on. Wouldn't take much to change it out.

Hey so I finally got tuned and here are the dyno plots. The power number is what I was aiming for so no disappointment there but the spool isn't up to snuff imo. My tuner told me as much before I got there but the turbo he suggested was 8 weeks back ordered. He thinks a VF52 would spool 1000 rmpish faster. I don't know what to think about the taper. With my mods I was expecting much better spool and to hold a bit more boost to redline. Maybe I'm crazy? Regardless it seems to be running fine and is much improved over stock for sure. I have aspirations to throw a different turbo at it some day but not sure when. It was also suggested to run a blend of 30%ish ethanol so an e85 kit may be in the future.

FWIW I heard they are fine.

I ended up getting the Subaru OEM flywheel for 04-19 STI, it's the single mass as well. I call ACT and they confirmed for me that this flywheel, or their light weight version, was correct for my application (6 speed) . Worst case call them or your vendor and they can help you confirm what you need on your car.

These are worth a watch.TLDR, choosing your oil pump isn't at simple as... More volume or psi is better. Seems like too high of a pump pressure on stock bearing clearances can cause the relief valve to open too often and with too much duration and cause problems as well. Not recommended to reuse the old pump out of a failed motor. One part I saw everyone recommend to replace was oil pump to avoid future oil contamination from previous motor failure. I don't know anything about the pump you bought but the criteria in the videos are worth considering when deciding to use it or not. ..

https://www.maperformance.com/products/subaru-sti-2004-2015-act-heavy-duty-clutch-kit-sb10-hdss A friend had this and decided not to use it and sold it to me for a good price so I put it on mycar. I can't speak to it's holding power yet as I'm waiting to be tuned. I can say however that it's buttery smooth and I love the pedal feel and engagement. I've also heard great things about ACT clutches from some tuners.

Price is flexible,.make an offer. Things just gathering dust on a shelf.

Ya my "budget" was 2k.....at some point I just started handing out my credit card and closing my eyes.....I was a bit of a captive audience though. It was either rebuild or sell the car. From what I understand you can easily make more power with the blouch over bnr and some say it's a much more durable piece that is fine on stock oiling. Depending who you are that may be worth the price of entry. I would have bought one and either sold or sent back the bnr if I could have. Not because I think the bnr is crap but more for piece of.mind. I have questions about it that I can't find answers for and I have read and heard nothing but good about the blouch. Its a moot point now tho. I don't love the oiling setup simply because of the routing. I would try some different hose setups to make it more clean or give me a different route but it would take a lot of fiddling and wasn't that critical at the end. It sounds like to me you would be happy with whatever setup you choose. And are you really gonna get any one of these turbos, assuming they don't fail, and wish you hadnt? Unless you have them side by side to compare how would you know much of a felt difference one way or the other. The car will be so freshened up you will be happy either way. I would pick the best specs for your goals and budget and just put my head down and go with it. If Brian is right and changing the oiling is a net benefit regardless if whatever turbo you buy, then great. If the other guys are right and it means my turbo is oversensitive but I accounted for it with a new oil line, then great I hope it doesn't blow up anytime soon.

It's hard to really judge the benefits of any one mod with the engine being new and so many things having been changed at one time. I can give you my opinion to date about the things I bolted on from an assembly and build perspective. I can say that even with a break in tune, 0 waste gate duty cycle, and governed to 4500 the motor feels strong. Things I love, IAG AOS, all the parts you need are there, the hose routing is very well thought out and intuitive. The install is ez and very clean considering how many pcv, cooling and inlet ports you have to ultimately hit. I have a friend who has a Crawford and he was disappointed with it from an install point of view. He didn't have enough fittings or hoses and had to make his own mounting bracket. The hose routing was wonky due to placement of the ports on the can. Functionally once installed he said it works fine but is disappointed in the mess of hoses in his engine bay. Grimspeed TMIC. Again, well thought out design, good fitment, ease of installation and seemingly far and away an improvement over stock. Grimspeed down pipe cuz it's shiny and sexy. The rest of it I assume doesn't stand out one way or another from and install perspective. Maybe the injectors cuz they have plug and play plug extenders which make it vastly easier to route cables. I'm don't think I mentioned that I used KSTech block off plates for my air delete and tgv deletes. They were simple and inexpensive and seem to function well. The clutch I bought from the friend with the Crawford AOS, he made me an offer I couldn't refuse and it seems like a good clutch. I obviously haven't pounded on a it yet. It has great quick engagement and feels solid. The pedal feel is stiffer and is taking some getting used to along with a much lower engagement point. It has a 300-500 mile break in and after 100 miles feels much more forgiving. I went to a braided release cylinder hydraulic line from the stock rubber one and don't know how much that did to change the pedal feel. I like the torque solution inlet hose. It seems to fit well and have good port placement. I had a heck of a time finding fittings locally in town to adapt from 1/2" on the inlet to 1/8" and 1/4" for the purge solenoid and boost controller. I like that it deleted the pcv valve sensor to inlet port because for my purposes with the IAG AOS that port is redundant anyways. I was able to completely delete the pcv hard pipe from the back of the intake, simplifying and decluttering that section. I'm not sure if any other boost controllers are this way but the way the grimmspeed mounts up above the inlet puts the ports going to the turbo facing away, and the port for the inlet facing toward the turbo. This makes the hoses unnecessarily long and requires them to loop back to where they are intended to be installed. It's not a huge deal but seems wonky to me. Nothing else really stands out. I do like the AP, the cost to entry is high but it seems like a very useful and streamlined tool. The parts I decided to upgrade were either in need of doing so based on their condition, or to support the turbo I landed on, so that it might achieve it's full potential. My other criteria for selection was future scalability on hard to replace parts should I ever choose to change the turbo in the future. Thus the over sized injectors and fuel pump. If I were you and you have the budget I would seriously consider doing the injectors and tgv's "while your at it." If you're changing turbo, exhaust, and intercooler it's really not much to pull the manifold. A few wires and hoses need to be disconnected and the whole thing pops out fairly painlessly. If I had the budget and wasn't a cheapskate I would just buy the tgv's from IAG and make it easy. It took me like 4-5 solid hours of non stop grinding to port mine out myself. I like trying things myself so it was kinda neat, the ports turned out very good and close to the ports on the heads with no oversizing in the TGV. But once in my life is enough and if I did it again I'd probably buy some. I too read the entire turbo thread, and the second one that was an extension of the first. I can't speak to their quality or power potential compared to others but someone highly suggested to me that I buy a different brand. I think that thread is slightly mis leading in that it describes the turbo in terms of a time with there were really no other direct bolt on turbos in existence for these cars aside from the original IHI turbos. From what I understand that is not the case now and there a quite a few other options that may be more desirable these days. I was told that any turbo that "needs" an aftermarket oil feed line is prone to early failure and or is to sensitive to be reliable for long term use. I read a few threads about people using some other turbos and having them fail twice then bolting on a blouch and going back to stock oiling and having zero issues. I was also told that they don't perform quite as well as some of the more "modern" offerings of the same class. So based on that I went back and forth about what to do. I had already ordered and received my turbo and kind of wished I would have spent a bit more time getting educated on the subject before buying. The turbo that was recommended to me was the blouch 380xt which I believe is a similar 16g with td05 turbine. I even called Brian and asked him his opinion about it and what a return might look like... He wasn't too happy stating that the cars are inherently hard on turbos and there's no reason not to run an auxiliary line. I wondered about all the recorded BNR failures in the thread and Brian said that he hasn't had one come back since he had people switch to the sandwich plate feed location. You can imagine, me being ignorant, all this being anecdotal at best, with longevity being my base goal, I was pretty torn as to what to do. This actually delayed my build for about a week debating with myself and looking around at turbo availability. What ultimately decided me was the fact that the blouch was 8 weeks out on back order and I wasn't waiting that long. I also reasoned that whether or not BNR turbos are "too sensitive" many of the failures were on engines that had a previous failure and were never rebuilt, or were rebuilt without replacing certain necessary parts, or were improperly maintained. I thought that if what Brian said was true, about not getting any turbos returned since the sandwich plate oil solution, then at worst it mitigates the potential for failures from not rebuilding or rebuilding poorly, and poor maintenance. And at best it's a dramatic improvement over the stock oiling supply. So I said screw it and threw it on. I've only driven 130 miles and not seen much boost but I can tell it's going to be quite a dramatic improvement over stock and I won't be disappointed. My only real concern at this point is longevity. From what I understand the BNR 16g is marginally "better" then the vf52. I have read that the vf52 falls off more at high rpm and can have a tendency to boost creep. I know nothing about the jmp rebuilds but have heard they are better than a stock vf52. Based on what you're saying you probably wouldn't care and would be happy with what you get either way. Once.i get to the appropriate mileage I will bring the car to the Dyno to get tuned and post Dyno numbers.

I will say that despite my experience, which was mostly due to my own ignorance, I love this car. It's really a joy to drive.

Definitely want to have the turbo and compression checked and buy at your own risk. Banjo filters need to be inspected. I have a friend that has a 2008 spec b with 200k but from what I understand they need some good maintenance to remain trouble free for that long. Def worth a very thorough inspection. I bought one with 150k and didn't realize the turbo was borked. I was a bit hasty and before figuring out what was wrong it went out on me and filled the motor up with bearing material. Not an experience you want to have without being prepared for it.

Perrin throttle body coupler. I bought this and didn't realize my intercooler had one so I don't need it. $60 shipped

I just went through all of this for the first time as well. I did the build myself. I bought most of my parts from flat irons and can't say enough good things about their service...multiple long, amd surely annoying, phone calls and they were always forthcoming with information and more than willing to help. My ulitimate goal was reliability but threw some mild upgrades at her to maximize my turbo's potential. It was a long and arduous process never having done anything like this before, and I learned a lot. The motor first started 2 days ago after being down 2.5 months and after 100 miles is running strong and seems very healthy. Some peep here were very helpful and I really appreciate it and would love to help as much as I can as I'm able in turn.

Finally got time to finish up my build. I was able to fire it up last night for the first time. I Pre-oilled the turbo, cranked it over without the fuel pump fuse for a bit. It built oil pressure pretty quick so I put the fuse in and fired it. Started right up and sounded great. Ran it to thermostat opening once then shut it down. I changed the oil and went for a drive. I drove it around a bit last night and today, it runs great. No leaks, no apparent problems. I've been expecting it to go up in a dramatic ball of flame but nothing so far. I ended up getting a Cobb AP and going with a tuner in town. It's on a break in tune till it's broken in. Even now with barely any boost and taking it easy I can tell it's dramatically improved over the old motor, which I suppose is to be expected. I'm pretty excited to get it broken in and tuned. Final parts list: OE short block My old heads Cobb AP Grimmspeed TMIC Grimmspeed Catted DP Grimmspeed 3 port boost controller Cobb 1050x injector AEM 340 LPH fuel pump BNR 16g TGV deletes Secondary air delete Killer B oil pickup IAG Street series AOS ACT heavy duty performance street clutch Cylinder 4 cooling mod Torque solution Turbo inlet tube I'm hearing that tuning is usually around 1000 miles. What are everyone's thoughts on that? My tuner told me a general but said he can't really advise me because he didn't build the motor or spec out the parts so can't really say definitively. I broke the bezel on my camera a week or so ago so some of the pics are a bit blurry.

I have a 16g unused I would sell. I'm considering using a different turbo.

No conditioner then?

Hey guys I tried searching around and wasn't sure so I'll ask. What coolant and do I need conditioner for OE head gaskets? Where can I get it and what kind?

Been slacking... finally getting some work done on the motor.

Cleaning parts and removed the barometric pressure sensor.... should be able to start assembling next week, going away for the weekend.

Got most of my parts, did my TGV deletes last night.

Can anyone link or give me some info on priming the oil pump? Also about heat shielding or wrapping the down pipe. I've read some stuff about the heat being hard on the boot. I really don't know anything about wrapping headers and exhaust. Also what's a typical break in look like?

Got my heads back from the head shop. They look pretty spicy. I'm looking at getting the bulks of my parts tomorrow. I've been reading and researching so much lately I wake up dreaming about head bolts and permatex ......

I also was wondering what people use as a gasket maker for things like the cam cap bracket with the AVSC solenoids in them where there is no gasket and the oil pump

Is that the mishimoto setup?