Bobsyouruncl

I might have something I'll have to look. I have an 07 spec B with a custom tune but I think I have the ots maps on my PC Just saw you said 08-09.

Hey, What's the word on re using flywheels? Mines new with my last clutch and I'm wondering when it comes time to replace the clutch if re using is a thing.

ACT Heavy duty street with STI single mass flywheel . Got something like 40k miles on it. I picked it up from a guy who bought it but never installed it, so the price was right. SB10-HDSS I have a blouch 380xt making 360 at the wheels. Its basically a big 18g but I don't know how that compares to a vf52. I've never had an issue with slipping. Good positive strong engagement. I have nothing to compare it to. It's the first clutch I've put in after the stock one I bought it with was replaced.

Thanks for that, I did see those as one of the only options.

I havent been able to find many wheel options at 18x8 48. I'm wondering if anyone has a resource or knows of any that could point me in the right direction?

I ended up putting vinyl on the chrome

Thx

Roll the dice? You might be surprised by what you can do. Or you take a price hit on sale. Seems like your only two options.

Can someone explain this? I've never heard of it.

My tuner recommended moving it to the far side of the intercooler and I had him do it. He said it gives a more accurate view of the air the engine sees. I mean that seems obvious. He then tunes it accordingly.

Ok thx

What is SEM?

Is there a resource for black badging? I'm trying to get all the chrome off of the car and can find "Subaru" but haven't been able to find anything saying "legacy" or "spec b"

I'm just curious, what are the performance gains with a smaller diameter wheel? Is it just wheel weight? I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to tires suspension and their relationship to performance so i was more wondering, from a performance perspective, what is the give and take going from a 225 to 235 tire? Is wider always better if you can get away with it? And is less sidewall better or worse and what other factors play into that?

Anyone have any input?

I don't know how conclusive this is but I think those filters are in this video

When I did mine I drained the trans and diff fluid and changed both seals cuz why not. They were most likely the stock seals and it's pretty easy to replace them. +1 on shaft orientation in trans not mattering, but also not hurting to preserve.

Those baggies were for engine parts. I was also rebuilding the motor at the same time. It's a pretty simple process. I just pulled the axles cut the old boots off with a knife. Used some side dykes to snip the old bands. Just be careful when you pull the shaft with the bearings out of the cups. Note the location of the bearings on the main shaft and also the location of the bearings in the cup slots. Clean all the old grease off of everything and put it all back the way it came apart. You will need a way to crimp the new bands but it seems like you have that. I used a landscape irrigation sprinkler fitting crimping tool. I did read that it's a gamble whether or not changing the boot will save the axle. If it got too much dirt in it before you repair it, the bearings may fail regardless. You'll know. If they do go contact these guys, https://www.raxles.com/.

Thanks for the info. Looks like an 18x8 wheel with 48 offset will push the scrub radius towards the positive a 1/4". Are there any benefits or drawbacks to that? I'm assuming it's impossible to avoid if going wider. Also I'm wondering what the differences between an 225, 235, and 245 tire size would be? Is there a point of diminishing returns? I plan on running some Michelin PS4 's for summer daily and possibly some autocross and maybe one day track driving.

Can't tell if you're joking or not. The whole underside of the car is rust free. Guess I lucked out. I bought it in Moscow Id and I think it lived most of its life around the Northwest prior.

100p would come pick this up if I wasn't in ....Washington State.

Couple days ago but put coilovers on the car and got some negative camber. Loving them so far.

6.5" (+34mm to +60mm offset, +55) *for 2.5i only 7.0" (+37mm to +57mm offset, +55) 7.5" (+40mm to +54mm offset, +55) 8.0" (+43mm to +51mm offset, +53) 8.5" (+45mm to +48mm offset, +45) *will need to roll the fenders if tires are wider than 255 9.0" (+43mm to +45mm offset, +43) *will need to roll the fenders if tires are wider than 255 9.5" (+38mm to +40mm offset, +38) *will need to roll the fenders if tires are wider than 255 I read this in the wheel fitment thread and had some questions. I'm trying to get an 18" wheel that can run 225's or maybe 235's better than my stock spec b wheels at 7" wide. I don't want to mod fenders and the car is lowered an inch or so. I'm wondering what offsets with a 225/40 or 235/40 or 45 would work. I'm confused as to why he lists the offset range of an 8" wide wheel from 43 - 51 but then highlights 53 as the closest to stock range, and you recommended it as the standard upgrade when it falls outside the listed range?

I'm confused as to why he lists the offset range of an 8" wide wheel from 43 - 51 but then highlights 53 as the closest to stock range, and you recommended it as the standard upgrade when it falls outside the listed range?

Thanks for that info. What is the +53? The offset?