Bobsyouruncl

They say they can see any cracks on the hanger...maybe it's very small?

Hey I was smelling fuel in my car mostly when the tank was full or a day or two after filling it. I had to get my brakes done and I took it into the shop to have it done and the fuel smell issue looked at. They replaced the pump hanger seal/gasket as it was old and looked worn. I got the car and it smelled like gas pretty bad, I thought it must be from the repair and it would go away. Well it didn't. The next time I filled it up the car started pouring fuel out the right side by the back tire....I didn't notice it till I got home and I pulled the seat up and saw the seal was leaking. So it drained to below the pump level and I took it back in. They replaced it again and went and filled it up and it still leaks. They worked all day trying to get it fixed with no luck. The shop told me to call Subaru because it might be a recall issue as they had some legacy's in the past that had something like this happen and it was covered under a recall. I called them Subaru dealer and they said there was no recall for my car for that issue and it was all up to date on recalls. Long story, but I'm wondering if anyone has any info on this or any input as to the problem or cause of fix as it's a bit baffling that it all of a sudden just quits sealing and leaks whenever you fill the tank from that hanger seal.

Isn't it something like 80% you want to be at max IDC? So I was not getting notifications for a bit and missed some PM's. I have responded to them all. Sorry about that.

FYI.....Much needed improvement. Thanks for the effort!

Yes I do, thank you!

Also there is no marketplace forum in my forum lists for some reason. I can use your link and then upon trying to sign in it shows that error screen.

Keep getting an error trying to sign in on the marketplace forum.

are the classified section nixed? can't seem to find them.

Hey guys I need to replace the headlights on my 07 spec b. I'm wondering if there were any suggestions for something decent that isn't pure china garbage that could be slapped in that might be a more attractive option to the stock lights. I also don't like the way the front end of the car looks. It needs something. It is too high off the ground and I think a front lip would give a good aesthetic accent and the illusion of a lower front end. Does anyone have a good reference for one of these? I have read some threads about lowering the car as well. I'm wondering again about the best way to do it and people's experience with the handling and ride change

Price change, still open to offers

Still for sale

I run the IAG, I don't know if it does any good or not...my intake is clean as a whistle. As to whether or not you need one....who knows, but it can't hurt if you want to spend the money.

I've heard a bunch of times not to go aftermarket.

If you read the FAQ Cobb stated that only the tuner software is effected. They are not pushing updates to the AP. They state that it will not effect your current tunes. Only effects tunes if they are tweaked in the tuning software going forward. That being said...If I don't have to I won't update mine. But I have been getting revisions and backing my tunes up to today.

this answers some questions. https://www.cobbtuning.com/green-speed-updates-faqs/

I would go ecutek or link and skip the flex fuel right now to save some coin. Someone may still buy the AP they still have a use. There is some rumor that Cobb will refund but who knows...I get why they did what they did but the way they did it was complete trash and screwed a lot of customers. Or another option is to leave your deletes on and stay cobb. Wait for a carb compliant version of flex from Cobb. Point is, don't be too hasty and see what shakes out.

Ecutek has said they will go the way of cobb as they are owned by the same company.

Should either fix the boot or replace. You can do your own boot replacement but it's a bit tricky.

Correct

I custom cut my stock one to fit and then changed the turbo....the shop took it off and told me that they don't run them because they cause housings to crack from the heat. Didn't know what to think about that..... what do I know.

You may have fueling issues. The old sensor may have been giving bad readings before it failed having degraded and now that you have a brand new one it may read different than the previous?

coils, plugs?

This is the HP and TQ curves.

The saga continues..... I ended up getting the AP back and Cobb said everything is fine with it no problems could be repeated on their end. So I go to log some pulls and the AP resets like it was doing before......sweet......I do another pull, it overboosts and throws a code but the AP doesn't reset. I clear the code and do another pull, over boost no AP reset. So could the AP reset and the overboost condition be related and they happened started around the same time? So the theory is that the coils being weak mostly and sometimes working causes the boost control to be too robust when they do work and makes it overboost occasionally and somehow reset the AP. So when they were fixed it overboosted all the time and instead of kissing the limit or whatever it went full tilt. I sent the logs to Dom and he said, "stop boosting the car, the boost is really high and it's running lean." So off to the dyno again. So I get to the dyno appt and he starts tuning the car. I told him it has a periodic tip in knock but everything else was fine. So he tried to tune out the tip in knock but the throttle control was weird and he thought it was acting like it had a bad MAF. He gets it mostly tuned but stops as he needs a new MAF to test his theory. They didn't have one in stock for an lgt so I told them to order one and I'll just toss it in. I drove away and the car ran like crap in vacuum, stuttering and surging and all around terrible. So I get the new MAF and toss it in. The preboost portion starts cleaning up as it learns a new fuel trim but trying to log a pull the boost is all over the place surging like crazy. So I send logs to Dom.......back to the dyno again. I went to the dyno last night. Dom puts the whole tune back to stock and starts brand new. With all the information on how the car behaves and issues it's been having he addresses each one and seems to be able to get them all ironed out. At one point he did a pull and it hit 366hp but threw a code and apparently unexpectedly had maxed out the MAF at 5 volts. The boost was table top flat all the way to redline with about a 1-1.5lb drop at around 5-5500k rpm then flat out to 6800. Unfortunately he had to turn the boost down at the high end because I ran out of MAF. The boost comes on quicker and holds solid to redline. One day I may put a new MAF on to wring out a few more ponies but it's pretty good for now. It ended up at 356hp scaled back. I noticed too that with the new coils and MAF the max boost pressure is down like 4 lbs but it makes more power. So it flows more with a better burn and higher exhaust pressure? It still has an occasional tip in knock that no one actually believes is real knock. At one point he was watching monitors on the knock sensor and it was just flicking between 50 and 150 sitting at idle with no throttle input. If anyone knows what might cause this or why a knock sensor in LGT seems to throw false knock a lot, feel free to say something. My car seems to have a problem with false knock. I've changed the sensor as the old one failed and that has cleaned the problem up a lot but it still is an issue that I'd like to get solved. It seems electrical. I drove the car home and it ran better than ever.. no knock or issues. We'll see how it does going forward but I'm hopeful. It's been almost a year since I bought it and it's been one problem after the other. So it would be nice to just enjoy it. Moral of the story is....if you buy an LGT with 150k miles....change your coils and sensors if you have any problems at all ...would have saved maybe 4 Dyno trips and a lot of headache. It's a long video but he streamed the tune if you're interested. It's pretty informative. that's the link. On this pic the top line is TQ and the bottom is the boost curve with the taper put into the tail end to accommodate the MAF overrun.

Sounds like it's throwing a code. Maybe your check engine light bulb is out on the dash? Check if it threw any codes with a scanner.