Underdog

Not sure I ever noticed a physical difference, but its been a long few years. Sure enough Subaru did change the boot kit (and axle) part numbers in the 2007 model year. 28397AG00A boot kit covers the 05-07, and 28397AG000 covers 07-09. Did I understand the question correctly?

All items sold or disposed of.

Bump

Sold and shipped

Haha I can take some measurements off the one I have in the car and post it in my build thread for informational purposes.

Sold and shipped

I purchased these new a few years back for a project and never installed them. Pretty sure it is 08-14 STI fitment, but the buyer is responsible for checking compatibility. Prefer local sale (southeastern MA/RI border) but willing to ship at buyers expense. $100. 90817FG121 DUCT HOOD F COMPL 90817FG050 DUCT HOOD F IN AY

These were in my '06 from birth through 2015 when I relocated the battery to the trunk. Never used as far as I can remember - I might have used the jack in a pinch while working on the suspension back in the day. $20 for the lot, local only. Southeastern MA/RI border.

You have impeccable taste in parts! I don’t expect these will move quickly, but who knows. Probably a greater risk of me changing my mind and keeping them.

Hahaha might be easier to buy some other 12v heating pads and wire them in tbh... The seat pads are all velcro'd in and easy to swap.

If you save your old seats you can have the best of both worlds! The swap itself takes less than 10 minutes once you've made the necessary changes. I'd even consider keeping the Stradia myself for that reason, and selling just the Gias if the right buyer came along. http://imageshack.us/a/img923/1738/Deqrj4.jpghttp://imageshack.us/a/img923/1613/xozTMT.jpg

I’m just getting back around to it after a couple years, so I totally know what you mean about them sitting and aging. The Audi sounds fun as hell though! I got a new Accord 2.0T sport last year as a daily, when it looked like I’d be going back to working for someone else, but then Covid happened. I started driving the Legacy again recently after coming to terms with the thought of selling it, and fell in love all over again. It’s been fun tinkering on it and finishing some projects I had been meaning to get around to for years.

Now for the two cosmetic issues: 1. The white Bride logo on the back of one of the seats has *very* small spots of slight discoloration - like someone was handling the seat with cheeto fingers. I never bothered taking upholstery cleaner to it because I didn't want to make it worse, and you will never see it in indirect lighting, from more than a foot away, or unless you're sitting in the back seat. 2. The back shell of one of the seats has a couple very fine scratches, the longest is maybe 1", that looks like a white hair. It just catches my fingernail, and I've contemplated polishing it out, but again - it's never seen and I didn't want to make things worse in the process. That's it! Otherwise these seats are mint. I can take extra pics as needed for serious buyers.

SOLD SOLD SOLD After living with these for a couple hundred miles I've decided to go back to the stock seats and am putting these Brides up on the block. I love the fit of these seats - I am 6' tall and 165lbs with a slim/medium build - however they are way more than I need for the way I use my car these days. I purchased them in 2015 from a private seller on NASIOC (Foo_Blyat) who had purchased them new from RavSpec (an authorized Bride dealer), and I confirmed the original purchase with RavSpec at that time. These seats are reclinable with an advertised 40 positions of adjustment, and the sliding rails work great. The seating position is ~3" lower than stock, and it makes the car feel like a sled. I used the Gias in the driver seat, and the Stradia for the passenger. The seat hold is amazing, it really makes you feel directly connected to the car. These particular seats have the carbon aramid shell and the black fabric with black Bride logo and a parallel red stitch. The seats are in excellent condition, with two minor cosmetic imperfections detailed in the next post. I've detailed the modifications necessary to keep your airbag system functional here. I won't be selling my ODS bypass switch (both for liability and because I'm still using it) but I'm happy to talk with the buyer about options. Price is $3200 firm, for the pair with rails. I am looking for a buyer, preferably local, that is willing to work with me on a fair purchase for these rare and beautiful seats. I am located on the southeastern MA/RI border and can travel a reasonable distance to work with a serious buyer. All certificates of authenticity and spare hardware are pictured below and will be provided at sale. Any questions, please ask! Weight info:

Thanks Mike. I’ll probably just pick up a new tensioner and switch back, like you suggested. Easy enough! What’s up Alex! Good to see you still on here. Still driving your LGT?

Anyone ever installed the self-tensioning A/C belt with a fluidampr pulley? I’ve had a grimmspeed LWCP for a while, and might make the switch to smooth things out a bit.

Bump

Wow that looks like a nice setup. I bought the leptronix kit from rhino6303 so I should be good, but thank you!

Hahaha happy to hear. I love it when things work out this way.

Yup, I would drain the oil from the gearbox into a pan and look for any debris. If you have access to a lift or can put it high enough on stands you could even try to reproduce the sound while listening with a stethoscope to pinpoint the sound. However a gear oil check is where I would start. I suppose it’s possible for it to be a CV joint though I haven’t experienced them fail in this way. They usually show wear by clicking/binding through turns. Like you said, wheel bearings don’t typically fail in this way either (though still worth inspecting while you’re under the car). Rough noise on decel only suggests damage to the coasting contact surface of the gear teeth. The R&P is road speed and gear independent, and has distinct contact surfaces for accel and coasting, so it fits all the problem criteria. Setting up a new R&P is not rocket surgery but it’s not trivial either. Some special equipment and know-how is needed. Removing and tearing down the transmission is certainly doable, and more straightforward than pulling the engine, for example. I’d say cross that bridge once the problem is identified.

If it’s regardless of gear I’d be checking the front and rear ring and pinions by checking the gear oil first (or isolating the noise to the transmission or rear diff).

That’s funny and true. I always need a drink after both, too.

It's been really warm the past few days and it's been fun getting the car sorted out and taking it for a drive. I took out the Brides and reverted the wiring and seats back to stock. The seat height feels like my old OBXT by comparison, but I do like the seats and it is much less of a pain getting in and out. Plus I cleaned and conditioned all the leather which is always ... After that I put it up on stands and installed the shift lever joint with the return spring that I keep talking about. Getting the roll pins out is always a pain, so this time I replaced it with a stainless M8 bolt (perfect fit). I don't miss working in the upper half of the transmission tunnel on a regular basis. Then I put the PTP lava blanket on the turbo. Nice and easy. Was very happy to see the lava wrap on the DP has held up really well so far. After all that I got it inspected, scheduled an alignment, and ordered a tap-turn module. Hoping to do some minor paint correction on it tomorrow. :feelsgoodman:

Looking to add aux-in to my ‘06 with the P204 head unit. Needs to be in great shape cosmetically. Let me know what you have!

Is this still available? Would you separate from the BT kit?