Underdog

Cargo net is pending sale.

Hey MC! Yeah I haven’t been on here much in the past few years. I actually kinda lost interest in cars as a hobby all together for a little while. Just so much else going on that is far more important. Still - it’s nice to return to wrenching every now and then. We’ll see if the new daily stokes the fire. It’s a ‘19 Accord 2.0T with the 10AT. In many ways it is everything I wanted in the (then stock) ‘06 LGT I bought 13 years ago, with the obvious differences being FWD vs AWD, and choosing the automatic. But since I still have the LGT, it’s really the best of both worlds.

Bump

Eh, it had sways and dedicated rubber and I had a full spec.B suspension swap w/ aluminum components, stage 2 parts, etc. lined up but slowly sold off those parts to get more toys for the LGT and my other hobbies. The OBXT was a great car, but it never got its hooks in me as a project car. I guess having the LGT already probably contributed to that. But I always appreciate the enabling from my fellow LGT/OBXT owners, as evidenced by the “are you going to mod the 2.0” question. [emoji38]

Hey! Yes it has been a while. Glad to see you and other familiar names still here. My OBXT (‘09 5MT) was a great car, once intended to get slowly upgraded over time, but over the years it absorbed the brunt of wear and tear from my young kids and I kinda lost interest. When I traded it in it had 107k on the odo and was due for a lot of service that I just didn’t want to sink the cash into. Got a fair enough price, so I really couldn’t be bothered to do a private sale instead. I’m already looking at cosmetic mods for the Accord, so I’m sure performance mods won’t be too far behind. It’s kind of funny how similar the car is to the stock LGT I bought 13 years ago. (And of course I still have my LGT - prob will post up some pics of the two together in my old build thread eventually.) Looking through all my PMs from while I was away - did you resolve your dash pad issue?

Nope I traded that in with the car, sorry.

***SOLD*** Wagon cargo net

Waterproof trunk liner

Outback cross bars

Traded it in for a ‘19 Accord 2.0T Sport. So long Charlie, thanks for all the miles and smiles. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey y’all - trading in my ‘09 OBXT today for a new family hauler. Don’t need these parts so I’m looking for a quick sale to get them out of my basement. Both items in good used condition, just need a little elbow grease to look like new again. Prices are cash/picked up. Don’t mind arranging shipping, but please serious inquiries only if you want me to calculate shipping (and also let me know your zip code). Any questions, just let me know. Thanks! Pair of Subaru cross bars for Outback roof rails - $75 Subaru weatherproof trunk mat (tan) - $50 Subaru wagon trunk net - $25 ***SOLD*** I also have a set of 17x8 Enkei PF01’s in silver, with Sumitomo HTR ZIII summer tires that prob have one good season left on them. Haven’t decided whether I’ll sell them, or take the tires off and keep them as spares for the LGT, but let me know if you’re interested. Edit - photos attached down thread.

If you take out the front fender lining, driver seat, rear seat, take off the driver side sill plates, and roll up the carpet there is a perfect spot. I was able to fit a 1/0 battery cable, so you should have an even easier time using 4AWG which should be down in the <.1V drop range. Then you can ground the relay and FPCM at a clean lug in the trunk. http://imageshack.us/a/img673/6692/QrUnau.jpg

I work with voltage drop rather than absolute numbers because battery voltage fluctuates. Assuming my battery voltage is 14V then the voltage at the pump FP+ would be 13.9V (during the key on/ign off period when the pump duty cycle is 100% but no flow). The long thin wire carrying current from the factory FP relay (next to glove box) back to the FPCM in the driver-side rear fender well is what chokes the system. That is why you saw some improvement between the FPCM and pump, but still have ~.7-.8V drop between the battery and FPCM. There may even be a choke upstream of the factory FP relay, but I did not bother checking there since I was adding my own relay anyways.

On my original wiring I saw a .8V drop from the battery to the FP+ terminal at the pump. After beefing up the wiring it went down to <.1V. The bulk of this is from increasing the wire size feeding the FPCM B+ terminal, and not the FP+/FP- wires going to the pump. To do this with the battery in the stock location you would need to run a new feed from the engine bay back to the FPCM in the trunk; I was relocating my battery to the trunk anyways so it was pretty easy, relatively. I believe the original threads I linked to in the first post mentioned where you can get new terminals to re-pin your pump connector, but I just soldered new wires in parallel.

Let us know how it works out and I will update the OP.

I made a switch to fool the occupant detection system into thinking the seat is either occupied or empty - allowing the user to have the passenger airbag armed or disarmed. This was done to prevent the airbag light with aftermarket seats, but it has the added benefit of disabling the bad airbag until I decide what to do with it.

This weekend I made a module that will allow me to toggle bypass the occupant detection system, which was removed in the process of installing my Bride seats, and triggered the airbag light in the driver's cluster. edit: I have moved the contents of this post to a walkthrough -> Underdog's Occupant Detection System Bypass for Aftermarket Seats (MY06+ Style)

Hey you're right up the road from me (Rehoboth). Maybe we should do an AC/DF photoshoot?

Plugging away...

Looking at both hood and TMIC mounting, but mounting on the TMIC seems like it will be easier to fabricate and facilitate better ducting. The cardboard mockup pictured would mount to the flange on either side of the TMIC and lines up perfectly with the scoop when the hood is closed. Flinkly - if the Moore Performance Mothership works for my next setup then the STI manifold might actually go up for sale eventually.

Working on a splitter for my STI TMIC. I'm considering mounting it to the TMIC rather than the hood. Looking at 5 pieces with simple bends and rivets to assemble.

Trying to attach more photos (in post #1 initially, now trying post #3) with the same dims and rough file size as OP but keep getting "upload failed" or security token. Even shrinking the pics does not work.

Added most of the pics as attachments. Will reformat OP with pertinent info.

EPDM or silicone are the caps you want.

Left for vacation before I could get much seat time. Long story short I asked Matt to keep the timing conservative in the midrange for safety and also to avoid the big torque hump in the middle of the powerband. Very happy with the results thus far, and with higher octane we can easily push another 4-5PSI and add a bunch more area under the curve all the way to redline without having to push the timing. Before we do that I really would like to finish intrumenting the TMIC and making a splitter/duct. Otherwise I'll just be driving it and renovating the garage so I can do more work on it during the winter months. WM UNDRDG.pdf