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Underdog

I Donated Too
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Everything posted by Underdog

  1. Thinking about trying to fit this intake... seems like it should fit?
  2. Why don’t you want to attach at the battery? It’s probably the best place for it. I have an old Morimoto bi-xenon setup with the 3Five ballasts, and they are fused 10A each. The only other place you could tap into that would be inside the main fuse box, or the stud on the alternator. The projector definitely looks a little low in the housing, though my kit doesn’t sit exactly in the center either. Pretty sure it changes when the light is aimed?
  3. It's good to have options! Plus the overall design is so clean - bonus points for style and redundancy.
  4. Look what you made me do! (Thanks for the motivation.. ) As I was disassembling I remembered that the alternator feed on my setup is protected by the 120amp SBF in the fuse box. Just wanted to circle back on that - I'll stop cluttering up your build thread!
  5. Curious if you replaced with the OEM spring clamps or the bent wire type that use a bolt to tighten. I have seen cars with both from the factory. I dislike the spring clamps because the lock tab is rarely able to hold the clamp in the open position. The worm clamp on my lower hose seems to loosen up every so often, like you mentioned.
  6. The old one has looked like that for over a decade and it always bugged me. I bought a replacement back in 2011ish but it was buried in my parts pile, and was recently excavated.
  7. Looking forward to more pics! I’ve never had to fully rebuild a rack on these cars. Looks fun.
  8. Aired it out a bit while letting it come up to temp after another coolant refill so I could trim the upper hose a tiny bit more, as well as cinch up the lower clamps. The other day I trimmed up the airbox lid and fresh air scoop - the lid always pressed hard against the base of the hood prop, and I disliked always having to remove the Cobb cover (small button head screws) just to get the scoop out of the way. I also replaced the plate that seals the fuel filler neck.
  9. Interested to see it on the car. Where's the material from? Will it fill the space adjacent to the fogs?
  10. ***Crank pulley and holder are sold. Stretch belt adapters are still available for $30 shipped.*** LWCP is used <1k miles, like new condition. 3.5lbs lighter than stock. The GS crank pulley removal tool is lightly used and in good shape. The stretch belt adapters have each been used once or twice, tops. Everything you need to install the self-tensioning stretch belts. Looking to sell the whole package for $200 shipped. Willing to split up but buyers pay the shipping. Venmo, google pay, or cash. Located in southeastern MA/RI area.
  11. I would definitely buy one - it looks like it would drop right in to my setup, with room for my Bussmann panel. I’m envious of your composite working skills. I’ve done plenty of sheet metal enclosures but always outsourced plastic and composite stuff.
  12. Are your alternator and main fuse box wires running off the back of the B+ post and under the shroud you built into it?
  13. Assuming all stock fitment parts then you’d need one of each of the grimmspeed gaskets, plus an OEM donut.
  14. That’s cool. I could put one right on the lid of my battery box. Thanks for the link.
  15. Wow that looks great! So you wanted capped posts for easy to access jumping points? I thought about something like that and maybe a little lcd voltmeter but wasn’t sure they were necessary. Definitely a nice feature though, well integrated and slick fit and finish overall. You def hit your mark. Can’t wait to see more.
  16. Found a pile of exhaust gaskets in my storage area this morning. All new. OEM 44022AA160 Manifold to crosspipe gasket (pair) - $15 - pretty sure these are OEM because the triangular tab OEM 44022AA123 OEM donut gaskets - $10 ea. - 1x GS 024001 Up-pipe to turbo gasket - $12 ea. - 1x GS 026001 Ex. manifold to up-pipe gasket - $10 ea. - 2x GS 028001 Turbo to downpipe gasket - $15 ea. - SOLD The 2x thickness 3" DP gasket is not for sale - that slipped in accidentally. Happy to ship USPS flat rate at buyers expense. Buy the whole lot and I'll eat the shipping. Venmo, google pay, or cash only. Any questions just ask. Thanks.
  17. That makes sense to me. I didn't plan for the forward fuse because the chance of that scenario seemed slim, but it definitely is non-zero. If I ever get around to a v2.0 it's probably a good idea to add in, and not much extra cost or complexity. Here's my setup. The engine bay box was not intended to be permanent but would actually be totally fine for me had I painted it black before hand. I may still do the lid and just wrap the sides with some DEI gold tape because I have a lifetime supply.
  18. Glad to see you rebuilding it! I recently came back around to my car on what feels like a very similar trajectory. I had relocated my battery to a Moroso sealed box in the trunk, with a main fuse inside, and an accessory fuse/relay box in the battery’s original place, but have been meaning to fabricate something nicer looking than the 4x4x4 outdoor junction box I currently have. I was thinking about getting a battery shell to make it look stock, but I like how you mocked up the panel so the guts are all in the fore-fender area.
  19. Two beautiful JDM bumpers got me thinking about replacing my pre-facelift spec.b swap... I always liked how the K2 fog surrounds have mesh to allow cold air in.
  20. I have the GTspec undertray, and while I like the protection and ease of removal/install/access to oil change spots, it doesn’t do quite as good a job sealing off the underside of the engine compartment. This is most noticeable with heat getting into the passenger side fender area while stopped, which is one place the Cobb CAI draws air from. Nothing that can’t be worked around, just an FYI for those contemplating OEM plastic versus an aluminum tray. It certainly does have the louvers and trailing edge spoilers to keep the aero functioning as intended. Edit: now that I think about it I never ran this cai with the stock undertray, so it’s possible I’m thinking about how the stock piece seals the wheel wells, and not the fender behind the fog lights.
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