Another KW2 review!

I know a few people have posted what they thought of their KW2 (KW variant 2) coil-overs. But I have a few comments to add that may be helpful to those looking to get these.

 

Obviously I cannot comment on long-term use. But they are stainless steel and appear to be constructed quite nicely. I will skip the pics because others have already done that. I will also skip the pics of the car because the ride height is adjustable (more on that latter).

 

First off, I love these things. I had done quite a few combos before this using JDM Bilsteins and different iON springs. I was extremely happy with my Bilsteins, and was also happy with my iONs. But I wanted a little more flexibility.

 

Some say coil-overs are loud, or they do not have a nice ride. To categorically say that is wrong! Coil-overs are just springs and shocks. The ride quality is dependent mostly on the shock valving, and also on the spring rates. NVH issues can also come up with hard pillow-ball mounts, especailly lower quality ones.

 

The KW2s use OEM top-hats, so there is no increase in NVH.

 

These things are the best of both worlds IMO. They ride smoother (more supple) then my Bilsteins, yet the car is more firm at the same time. Thank the valving for that! I would estimate a subjective 15% better ride quality and 15% better handling then the Bilstein iON combo I had before. Happy dance!!!!!!!

 

According to my meaurements my car is lowered app 1.25 inches from stock in the front (which happens to be the max recommended ride height that KW recommends, they can physically go higher, but that utilizes the shocks less then optimally). My front suspension has more travel now (I could bottom it out before on really harsh bumps).

 

With body roll and front to back motions reduced the car really is a dream to drive.

 

Drum roll...........................

 

Big very welcome surprise to me was the weight difference between the two:

 

9 lbs weight loss for each front coil-over vs OEM strut/spring combo!

 

1.5 lb weight loss for each rear coil-over vs OEM shock/spring combo!

 

That is over 20 lbs of kinda unsprung weight off the car.

 

 

The adj valving is very easy to adj on the top of the units with a supplied allen wrench. I am currently on setting 4 rear, 5 front (from the least stiff, out of 18 adjustments).

 

Some had run on full soft front and rear, and I found that way too bouncy.

 

I bought these from Boost Junkie (thanks again Paul!) and he was very helpful to me. I called him at around 8:30 pm when I was installing them to ask a couple of questions, and he helped me out no problems at all!

 

Cliff notes: Before installing on car raise the fronts about 1/2 inch (or else front will be slammed) Raise the rears till helper spring is just at coil-bind, or else rear will really be in the weeds.

 

Also, the rear uses the OEM tophat, minus the OEM rubber spring seat.

now, if you could just get some DMS tophats, your life would be complete!

So, on a wagon, due to that "Max Height", do you thinnk it is possible to set them up not to look slammed in the back? Can you add the rubber spring seat?

now, if you could just get some DMS tophats, your life would be complete!

 

I can get DMS top-hats if I like, but I won't give away my source. I may actually get some when they come out with the poly inserts for them.

 

 

Shhhh.

So, on a wagon, due to that "Max Height", do you thinnk it is possible to set them up not to look slammed in the back? Can you add the rubber spring seat?

 

The max height for the front is 13.8 inches from the wheel center to edge of fender, for the rear it is around 14.2 maximum.

 

Your rear will not look slammed, if anything you can make it look like a 60s muscle car if you wanted.

Welcome to Boostjunkie supplied KW goodness!

 

For the ultra crappy roads around SF I comprimised with two turns out from full stiff (about 33% of full stiff), and luvin it.

Welcome to Boostjunkie supplied KW goodness!

 

For the ultra crappy roads around SF I comprimised with two turns out from full stiff (about 33% of full stiff), and luvin it.

 

 

Really, I couldn't be happier!

 

Quit often with suspension mods you get a big grin on some surfaces, but then you are not too impressed on others. These things are just plain good, especially for the price point.

 

FWIW the boys at Racecomp (also good vendors that sell these) say for the street these things are 95% as good as the Ohlins.

Thanks for the kind words LittleBlueGT! I'm very glad you are enjoying your coilovers and I was happy to help you out.

You guys are making me want to get another set of KW for myself since JuxtaGT is riding on the set that I had on my car!

I can get DMS top-hats if I like, but I won't give away my source. I may actually get some when they come out with the poly inserts for them.

 

 

Shhhh.

 

they already have a PU option. and I'm telling!! Mark will track you down

If LittleBlueGT likes them, I think that says a lot.

I mean no offense, but not just any part pleases him.

 

re: the never ending perfect turbo search threads

Now I want to know about the Tein Comfort Sports in comparison...

If LittleBlueGT likes them, I think that says a lot.

I mean no offense, but not just any part pleases him.

 

re: the never ending perfect turbo search threads

 

 

I still won't have the "perfect" turbo, I think Ted might have me beat there.

 

I hope so, but no more Boxer sound

I was a bit worried about how the equal front/rear spring rates would affect the balance of the car. (400/400) OEM and most aftermarket spring manufacturers choose a stiffer rear spring due to the mechanical advantage the rear suspension has.

 

I was pleasantly surprised, at least on my winter Dunlop M3s on dry pavement. The car is very very neutral (COBB sways, rear set to soft) and predictable. It is much easier to get on demand oversteer, w/o the car being too unstable.

 

I will reserve more comments for the spring, when I get my summer rubber on.

Next bit of info about how this stuff affects braking:

 

I have an ABS defeat switch in my car. On my iONs (stock struts & with Bilsteins) I had too much front brake bias (all of our cars our made that way). Turn on the switch, drive on the highway, lock-em-up and the fronts always locked up well in advance of the rears.

 

Didn't seem to matter which tires I was using front locked up first.

 

Carbotech Bobcats front and rear BTW.

 

Now with these coil-overs my rears actually lock-up slightly before my fronts. This is kinda scary on ice, or maybe I should say REALLY REALLY scary!

 

I haven't flushed my brake fluid in a year so maybe that will make a difference (highly doubt it).

 

I will post tomorrow in the brake-bias thread to talk about more details.

 

Looks like these stiffer front springs really help to keep all four wheels planted on the ground, and not overwhelm the fronts soo much. Just goes to show you should do you suspension first, then get your brakes done after to get it tweaked just right.

Nice work, 'LilBlue - I love suspension experimentation.

 

I've gone back to OEM springs paired w/ Bilsteins & couldn't be happier:

 

http://www.carandimage.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2294&highlight=oem+springs

 

Perfection is out there somewhere

Nice work, 'LilBlue - I love suspension experimentation.

 

I've gone back to OEM springs paired w/ Bilsteins & couldn't be happier:

 

http://www.carandimage.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2294&highlight=oem+springs

 

Perfection is out there somewhere

 

Isn't that basically the equivalent to the JDM GT revisions (no the spec b. ones).

 

If these KW2's are similar to an M ride I may need to start counting my pennies.

Not when you own a 2.5i it isn't

Not when you own a 2.5i it isn't

 

But it would be similar if someone in the U.S. Imported the JDM GT setup. As I recall these setups don't drop the car, but still offer a great improvement on our otherwise shitty stock struts and springs.

Hmm, it is looking like KWs w/ DMS camber plates for me

Similar, but not the same. The 2.5i springs are even softer than normal GT springs - this seems to work really, really well w/ the (firmer than OEM-spec) Bilstein dampers, WL front & rear sway bars & Fulcrum LCA bushes.

 

The car is compliant over bumps now, not skipping about & seems to have far more suspension travel. As you can see in the tail-end of that thread on C&I, I needed to have the front springs reset in height (dropped 12mm) due to the Bilstein factor.

 

All is good now

Hmm, it is looking like KWs w/ DMS camber plates for me

 

Answered your PM praedet. A set of KW's with your name on them are waiting for you .

If these KW2's are similar to an M ride I may need to start counting my pennies.

 

My car is stiffer then an M3 or M5 (last generation, not been in a new one yet).

 

Same tires I would put my handling slightly better then an M3, not a huge difference, but a bit better. The only area an M has an edge is in steering feel IMO. And yes I have flogged an M before!

No comments on the weight difference, common you people what is important to you? I think a part of the less harshness/yet stiffer then stock has to do with the less unsprung weight.

 

I found the actual weights (below are fully assembled weights with top-hats installed):

 

Front Bilsteins with iONs: 21.6 lbs

Front KW2: 12.4 lbs

 

Rear Bilsteins with iONs: 11.8 lbs

Rear KW2: 10.2

 

 

The difference as expressed in a percent would be even greater if I had weighed w/o top-hats.

 

Not sure what OEM stuff weighs, but imagine it would be close.