Tuned200 Posted June 1, 2008 Share Posted June 1, 2008 I am thinking about fixing my slipping clutch myself, with the act/wrx lwfw combo. How difficult is it to pull the tranny without a lift. I know a lift would help a ton, but the locals I will have over to assist on this job drive f-bodies and mustangs so a rwd set up isnt a big deal. Please post any pointers. The local dealer's tech told me to pop the ball joints, and leave the axlesin the tranny. He said he can have it out in less than 90 minutes. I am in no hurry, and wont rush the job if and when we do it. I plan to take up to 3 days. Thanks in advanced Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mschmidt Posted June 2, 2008 Share Posted June 2, 2008 subscribed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsme Posted June 2, 2008 Share Posted June 2, 2008 I did it on a friend of mine. He is right about the ball joints. You just take out the bolt on the lower control arm and tap the arm down to separate. Just make sure the DP is not connected or touching the tranny when you try to separate tranny from the motor. It may not look like it but it will keep it from coming apart. If you have a engine hoist it will be alot easier. You can disconnect the tranny pull it back. Then pull the engine forward once you disconnect the engine mounts. I did it with just jacks and jack stands. The hardest part is getting the engine and tranny apart the rest is pretty easy. The DP really held us up. You should be able to do it in a day. Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Impulse Posted June 2, 2008 Share Posted June 2, 2008 move the engine forward? how much? does it incl. removing any of the wiring, piping, pitch stop connected to the engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuned200 Posted June 2, 2008 Author Share Posted June 2, 2008 move the engine forward? how much? does it incl. removing any of the wiring, piping, pitch stop connected to the engine? Good question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineRaven Posted June 9, 2008 Share Posted June 9, 2008 So much easier to remove gearbox from under the car. I did it in 1 hour on 1995 Legacy (remove/disconnect wires) remove front CVs & tailshaft and bolts then the transmission was out. All done in 3 hours. Cheers AP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infamous1 Posted June 9, 2008 Share Posted June 9, 2008 I did it on a friend of mine. He is right about the ball joints. You just take out the bolt on the lower control arm and tap the arm down to separate. Just make sure the DP is not connected or touching the tranny when you try to separate tranny from the motor. It may not look like it but it will keep it from coming apart. If you have a engine hoist it will be alot easier. You can disconnect the tranny pull it back. Then pull the engine forward once you disconnect the engine mounts. I did it with just jacks and jack stands. The hardest part is getting the engine and tranny apart the rest is pretty easy. The DP really held us up. You should be able to do it in a day. That was a fun day. However not slide the engine forward but tilt the engine towards the fire wall downward after loosening the motor mounts. This can be done with multiple helpers however would be alot easier with a hoist, we learned the hard way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackfang Posted June 9, 2008 Share Posted June 9, 2008 My transmission tech does it that way via ball joints. [SIZE=1][URL="http://public.fotki.com/blackfang/"]Pics[/URL] [B]08 KawasakiZZR 600- exhaust and other mods 98 Camaro Z/28 HT- some mods......street/strip car 07 Legacy 2.5i- SPT exhaust...daily driver[/B][/SIZE] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaos22B Posted June 9, 2008 Share Posted June 9, 2008 will you have a lift? if not, pull the engine instead. It's just my opinion, but I dislike doing the transmissions anymore (especially 6 speeds!) It's not that difficult of a job either way, just time consuming your first few times while you figure out the best ways to disassemble/reassemble everything Pull radiator and coolant lines set aside A/C and P/S D/C Downpipe + Intercooler, Disconnect engine from tranny and undo engine mounts from crossmember disconnect electricals and fuel pull replace clutch repeat backwards lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrad Posted June 10, 2008 Share Posted June 10, 2008 This might be a stupid question, but I searched the forum and couldn't find the answer, thought I'd ask here. I want to freshen the clutch fluid in my car, but don't know where to look for the drain plug on the clutch case. Where should I be looking. I see the tranny case plug. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackHole Posted June 10, 2008 Share Posted June 10, 2008 ^ The clutch slave cylinder is on top of the transmission, underneath the TMIC. Kyle "BlackHole" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrad Posted June 11, 2008 Share Posted June 11, 2008 Ok, so I was flushing the cooling system today and was looking at the clutch slave cylinder. Can I just use my brake bleeder on the bleeder screw and suck the fluid out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted June 11, 2008 Share Posted June 11, 2008 Ok, so I was flushing the cooling system today and was looking at the clutch slave cylinder. Can I just use my brake bleeder on the bleeder screw and suck the fluid out? Yes. http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63261&highlight=clutch Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rony Posted June 13, 2008 Share Posted June 13, 2008 I have had my clutch in an out of my car more times than I care to explain. All times, we used a engine lift and simply pulled the engine forward and away from the tranny. 1. Remove the battery and air box. 2. Remove the radiator from the car, drain plug is a little plastic plug on the passenger side. 2 bolts and brackets on the top, and upper and lower hoses. Coolant will continue to drain from the lower hose. 3. Remove the intercooler and put a paper towel in the turbo opening (remember to remove this when you reinstall the intercooler). 4. Disconnect the main engine electrical connection. This connector is opposite of how you think it would work. Use a flat head screw driver to release the lever and pull it up. Then pull the connector that is farthest from the engine. Then use the screw driver to release the engine side connector from the bracket. 5. Remove the lower engine mount nuts, 2 total. You do not have to remove the lower cover, but it is highly suggested to get the O2 sensor out. 6. Remove the front 02 sensor from the header. (To avoid bumping it when you are wrestling the engine out). 7. Remove the Down Pipe and heat shield if needed. 8. Remove the dog-bone, just the bolt on the firewall. 9. Remove the alternator. 10. Remove the A/C compressor and then remove the bracket from it and reinstall it on the engine block, you need it for the engine lift. Fold hoses and all over to where the battery was. Secure with a bungee cord if needed. 11. Remove all 3 fuel lines and make sure you are ready for the fuel that will come out. Also, make sure you mark or note the location of each connection. 12. Attached the engine lift to the back engine lift point, it's under the where the intercooler was, and attach it to the A/C bracket. Balance front to back and side to side is important. 13. Slightly lift the engine and remove the bolts from the transmission top to bottom. 6 total bolts, remember that the 2 lower ones are the long ones. 14. You will probably have to use a putty knife to break the tranny from the engine. You will have to wiggle the engine back and forth to pull it off the tranny. Once you have the engine pulled away from the tranny, you will have about 6 inches to work in. Reverse the steps to put it back together. It can be a challenge to get the tranny back on the engine. It's suggested that you get it on the studs first, then use the long bolts on the top bolt location to help pull the tranny to the engine. That is the basic steps, I suggest you do not attempt this alone. You will need help. I can complete a full clutch replacement in about 3 hours. My Car vBGarage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wsmith30132 Posted August 12, 2008 Share Posted August 12, 2008 My dad and i pulled the engine forward as well. All worked pretty good except we had one hell of a time seperating the engine from the tranny. We didnt have an engine lift so we balanced the engine on the floor jack, a little wobbly... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rony Posted August 15, 2008 Share Posted August 15, 2008 My dad and i pulled the engine forward as well. All worked pretty good except we had one hell of a time seperating the engine from the tranny. We didnt have an engine lift so we balanced the engine on the floor jack, a little wobbly... Wow, that had to have been a pain..... Engine lift is so much easier, but the tranny is always a bear to get off and back on. My Car vBGarage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 13. Slightly lift the engine and remove the bolts from the transmission top to bottom. 6 total bolts, remember that the 2 lower ones are the long ones. Incorrect. The TOP two are the long ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derffred Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 Does the TMIC have to come out to remove the Transmission? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 yes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derffred Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 Woohoo! lol. This weekend is going to be interesting My clutch is done... just ordered a replacement setup Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrad Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 Does the TMIC have to come out to remove the Transmission? No, when I had my clutch done we just put it on the lift and took the DP off. But every thing that I read said you had to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterJMC Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 I'm wondering if I should just pay the dealer to replace my clutch I don't want to attempt this with my dad because he just likes taking shortcuts and does what looks right and not what is right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derffred Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 No, when I had my clutch done we just put it on the lift and took the DP off. But every thing that I read said you had to. Hm, you dropped the Trans out right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 will you have a lift? if not, pull the engine instead. It's just my opinion, but I dislike doing the transmissions anymore (especially 6 speeds!) It's not that difficult of a job either way, just time consuming your first few times while you figure out the best ways to disassemble/reassemble everything Pull radiator and coolant lines set aside A/C and P/S D/C Downpipe + Intercooler, Disconnect engine from tranny and undo engine mounts from crossmember disconnect electricals and fuel pull replace clutch repeat backwards lol That is the WORST way to do it. My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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