bagtowner34 Posted June 20, 2013 Share Posted June 20, 2013 Hi Bac. Glad your on line. Have followed your stuff since I got the SVX. The Motul/Redline mix was great while it lasted, about 1 week! The clutch started to shudder with an unusually low engagement from the fire wall for the past few days, and then the peddle just stuck to the floor when I was in 3rd merging on the highway. Pulled over, master cylinder was empty and I filled it with fluid and pumped the clutch. Clutch got real stiff, and fluid just drained on the ground under the slave cylinder. Got it to my small town shop (trust the guy, he rebuilt my MG and has taken care of a Forester, Outback, Impreza and a GTI) and he says the slave is shot, but nothing seems to be flowing into the tranny, and he'll have to drop it to check it out tomorrow. He said ?pressure plate, but "we'll see" LOVE the car, want to put some effort (aka bucks) into it but since it is late 90's legacy tranny it might be best just to replace rather than fix? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted June 21, 2013 Share Posted June 21, 2013 The slave cylinder has nothing to do with the inside of the trans. Fluid is all contained outside the case in the clutch hydraulics. The slave bolts to the case: http://www.scoobymods.com/mods/impreza/images/14clutch.jpg (I hope ScoobyMods doesn't mine me hotlinking a photo) If he drops the trans to check the clutch hydraulics, then you should consider a different mechanic. Unless, for some inexplicable reason, you have a Tilton Hydraulic TOB. But you almost certainly do not have one of those. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bagtowner34 Posted June 21, 2013 Share Posted June 21, 2013 Well he says the slave cylinder is toast, and needs to be replaced, but he also says the trans is "clogged up" and he can't figure it out without dropping it. I'm pretty trans naive, so that's why I'm here! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted June 21, 2013 Share Posted June 21, 2013 What does that mean "the trans is clogged up"? Ask him, because it sounds like bullshit. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bagtowner34 Posted June 21, 2013 Share Posted June 21, 2013 I will. Going over tomorrow am and will get the skinny face to face. Thanks for letting me bounce this off/at you. Appreciate your opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bagtowner34 Posted June 21, 2013 Share Posted June 21, 2013 So, can something wrong with the transmission cause the slave cylinder to leak/drain all the clutch fluid?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted June 21, 2013 Share Posted June 21, 2013 So, can something wrong with the transmission cause the slave cylinder to leak/drain all the clutch fluid?? Not at all. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bagtowner34 Posted June 21, 2013 Share Posted June 21, 2013 Wow. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bagtowner34 Posted June 21, 2013 Share Posted June 21, 2013 Don't want to hijack this thread, so I sent you a private message Bac5.2. Thanks for your input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Impatient Posted June 21, 2013 Share Posted June 21, 2013 If the slave is hard to get to, any chance "the labor book" says you have to lower the tranny to get to it? My real question is, if a new clutch is called for, does it make sense to replace the front trans seal, and would that necessitate a new tranny fill or top off? I still haven't replaced my fluid, as I'm pretty sure the clutch is dying. Very hard pedal, vague engagement. I wish i knew someone besides dealer who could drive it and determine, someone besides (or in addition to) Cobb, who is a long ways away from W. Ft Worth, & whom I have mixed feelings toward. But I do have a couple quarts of motul & shockproof waiting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nolmers06LGT Posted June 21, 2013 Share Posted June 21, 2013 The only thing you have to do to access the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder is remove the intercooler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 21, 2013 Share Posted June 21, 2013 The only thing you have to do to access the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder is remove the intercooler. Correct, you can see the slave cylinder on top of the back of the engine if you look under the tmic from the drivers side. The starter is in there too. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Impatient Posted June 21, 2013 Share Posted June 21, 2013 "My real question is, if a new clutch is called for, does it make sense to replace the front trans seal, and would that necessitate a new tranny fill or top off?" Just so this question doesn't get lost in the shuffle. I don't want to swap fluids tomorrow and then have the dealer (Or whomever) drain or contaminate the new fluid during a clutch install (in next week or so) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted June 21, 2013 Share Posted June 21, 2013 You can't replace the front seal without splitting the case. If they drop the trans, they will drain the fluid first. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 21, 2013 Share Posted June 21, 2013 You would only replace the front seal if it was leaking. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 Update, picked up this today $133.21 http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN5242_zps79584338.jpg 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moddiction Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 Do you know how long the fluid is good for once opened? Thinking of picking up one of the 5 gallon jugs as well as they are the same price as 10 quarts individually. WWW.MODDICTION.COM Moddiction Stainless steel and Titanium shift knobs. Drivetrain, suspension, brakes, exhaust, cooling, fuel, gauges+MUCH more! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 Do you know how long the fluid is good for once opened? Thinking of picking up one of the 5 gallon jugs as well as they are the same price as 10 quarts individually. Refrigerate after opening LOL It's fine just open the little cap pump out what you need and plug it back up. If you think it will go bad take out what you need and send the rest to me ill provide address if you PM me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 ^ Same, I'll take 3-4qts. EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 I think that gear oil probably has a similar shelf life to motor oil. Mobil says 5 years for mobil 1, even if it has been opened. As they mention in the link below, just make sure it's stored in a cool dry place if possible. http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Shelf_Life_Opened_Bottles_Mobil_1.aspx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moddiction Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 Haha sounds good. Think I'll just pick up the 5 gallon jug. WWW.MODDICTION.COM Moddiction Stainless steel and Titanium shift knobs. Drivetrain, suspension, brakes, exhaust, cooling, fuel, gauges+MUCH more! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amptramp Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 Has anyone tried Motorcraft XT-M5-QS synthetic? By now, everyone knows that Getrag screwed up the design of the transmission for the Ford Focus (and a friend of mine is a Ford dealer who never stops complaining about it), so Ford commissioned Fuchs of Germany to create an oil that had all the good qualities of a 75W-90 GL-4 transmission oil with excellent performance for weak synchros. It has since become the darling of Miata owners as it is the only oil that allows good synchronization of the Aisin transmission at low temperatures. It is rated better than Red Line or any of the boutique oils by many owners as evidenced by this thread with 1145 posts: http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=270393 with few dissenting opinions. It may be a better bet than the Red Line + Motul cocktail, although it may be a similar price. The data is here: https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/main/ and select transmission fluid and select Full Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid. It takes you to a page whose URL is too long for this site to copy, but it has all the data and a link to the MSDS sheet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Impatient Posted September 19, 2013 Share Posted September 19, 2013 At the risk of pissing of Bac5.2 or some others, I'll share some reading I did....which may or may not be relevant: I mean who would trust something written by/for a Mitsu Evo owner: http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-engine-turbo-drivetrain/384612-redline-heavy-shockproof-gear-oil-amsoil-severe-gear-svg-7.html specifically posts #95 & 96 caught my attention; 96 copied below: Alex, In the Evolution transfer case and rear differential for street use I would recommend the 75W90. In the transaxle a 75W85 viscosity gear oil is called for we would recommend a blend of about equal parts MTL and MT-90. The ShockProof gear oils are full synthetic products, designed and better suited for racing and some speciality applications. They do contain a moly component that can centrifuge out and then recombined. They also contain a friction modifier so wouldn't be recommended in synchro equipped transmissions or transaxles as they can be too slippery. Regards, Dave Red Line Oil It's no surprise to me that Redline keeps trying to talk people out of buying their Shockproof products (for some reason). They told me not to use it. Now I have no idea what "Alex" asked "Dave," or which Shockproof they were talking about. In fact, the whole post might be spoofed. And don't take the MTL & MT-90 recommendation as relevant to Subaru. But post #95 also made me think: ...if you run high horse power lets say over 450 and you drag the car like a track ***** using shockproof will help your ring and gear to reduce some of that metal to metal contact, keep in ming that shockproof is a dirty oil and you will have to change it more often... Of course #95 is from an Amsoil reseller, but think about it: BAC said to change transaxle fluid often. So it might be worth beating the drum that perhaps Shockproof and extended (30K+) change intervals are mutually exclusive. (Doesn't mean RLLWSP isn't the best thing going IF you change fluids religiously). The other thing I read (elsewhere) is that Motul has a very high VI (Viscosity Index = 222). That was the highest I saw in any gear oil. It "thins" to appropriate 90weight viscosity at 100C (water boiling temp), but is noticeably "thinner" at 40C (what is that..100 degrees F ?) than many competing products. That begs the question, what is the typical operating temperature of a Subaru 5MT transaxle or the rear diff? Of course viscosity is not the same as lubricity or whatever quality we need in a gear oil. Oh well, just my attempt to understand the "why" not just the 'what." Not discounting that "hundreds" of drivers have had excellent results with Shockproof/Motul cocktail (or Amsoil, or Extra-S). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Impatient Posted September 20, 2013 Share Posted September 20, 2013 http://techinfo.subaru.com/proxy/71914/pdf/ownerManual/071914_2014_Forester/MSA5M1403BrevSTIS_18.pdf Extra-MT??? and note footnote regarding use of GL5 (75w90) ****sorry, not well-formatted here**** & Manual transmission, front differential and rear differential gear oil Oil Manual transmission oil Front differential gear oil (CVT models) Rear differential gear oil Oil grade . SUBARU Extra MT*3 . API classification GL-5 (75W-90)* 4 API classification GL-5 SAE viscosity No. and applicable temperature — Oil capacity* 1 3.5 US qt (3.3 liters, 2.9 Imp qt) Non-turbo models 1.43 US qt (1.35 liters, 1.19 Imp qt) 0.8 US qt (0.8 liters, 0.7 Imp qt) Turbo models 1.5 US qt (1.4 liters, 1.2 Imp qt) Remarks* 2 “Manual transmission oil” F 11-16 “Front differential gear oil (CVT models)” F11-16 “Rear differential gear oil” F11-17 *1: The indicated oil quantity is only a guideline. The necessary quantity for replacement may differ slightly depending on the temperature and other factors. After refilling the gearbox with oil, the oil level should be checked. *2: For more details about maintenance and service, refer to the indicated section. *3: The vehicle is filled at the factory with this type of manual transmission oil. *4: You may use this type of manual transmission oil. However, using this type of oil will detract from driveability and fuel efficiency. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted September 20, 2013 Share Posted September 20, 2013 I wonder if that's Subaru's shorthand for "Extra-S", just calling it "Extra"? Or maybe Subaru is releasing a new type of MT fluid that isn't yet available? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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