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accidentally moved my boost controller! help!!


Diavolo

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today i went to install the new (used) actuator, when i took my old one off i pushed on the lever that should open and close the wastegate. it was stuck.

 

i hit it lightly with the side of a ratchet, and it started to move but not very willingly. i moved it about 1/4 inch.

for some reason the wastegate door has siezed!

 

i took off the downpipe (invidia divorced wastegate) to take a better look.

its possible it may have been hitting on the inside of the DP. it looks like theres a little wear, but i'm not sure until i clean it up.

if it was hitting, its possible that over time and heat it could have pushed the wastegate arm out of alignment.

 

otherwise i dont know why its stuck where it is.

anyone ever heard of a wastegate not moving?

 

edit:

i sprayed it down and tapped it with a mallet, and it moves, but it doesnt swing freely.

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looking at it all cleaned up and i took a picture inside the turbo.

i can see it was hitting inside the downpipe.

i'll post pictures later.

 

its been on there since Sept 2011.

i guess at some point it finally got hot enough and opened, and warped the arm.

 

thermal expansion, EFF YOU!

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WG door hitting the divorce plate on Invidia downpipes is a well known issue, supposedly corrected on the newest versions of the DP, but I'm not so sure about that.

 

Read here about my own experience with photos:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/invidia-down-pipe-install-118156.html?p=2620690&highlight=invidia#post2620690

 

Pretty surprised that if it was hitting the whole time you didn't have symptoms earlier...

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Well it seems like the wastegate door hitting the divorce plate slowly pushed the shaft (the door is attached to) out of the turbo housing. So the whole thing shifted over about 3/16th of an inch. Finally it got to a point where it became bound up on the inside of the housing and jammed.

 

I'll check out the link you posted. Thanks.

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I read the link and saw the photos.

Mine looks to be hitting in a slightly different place than the pic that showed how it was ground down.

 

I'm replying from my phone right now but I'll post pictures in a couple days of mine. I'll have time on thursday.

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My WG actuator is a factory part. Does it still need to be adjusted somehow?

Right now it cant even move the wastegate so its not a problem.

The wastegate is curretly jammed open a little bit.

 

since the rod that acts as a hinge for the wastegate door has backed out of the turbo.

it looks like a machine shop is going to have to repair it.

 

rebuild turbo or replace?

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Weld it and go EWG.

 

i need to be able to revert my car back to stock to pass emissions inspection.

i live in Cali.

 

so...

 

 

rebuild or replace?

i think i want to stay with a VF40.

i've seen dyno charts for a legacy with a 20g, and it didnt make that much more power.

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My WG actuator is a factory part. Does it still need to be adjusted somehow?

Right now it cant even move the wastegate so its not a problem.

The wastegate is curretly jammed open a little bit.

 

since the rod that acts as a hinge for the wastegate door has backed out of the turbo.

it looks like a machine shop is going to have to repair it.

 

rebuild turbo or replace?

This happens sometimes, the roll pin that locates the wastegate shaft gets damaged or squished and the shaft moves up or down in the housing and gets stuck. Basically the wastegate is stuck almost completely closed and you have no boost control at all.

 

Options:

 

A mechanic may be able to repair it for you.

You could get a used exhaust housing from another VF-40 (there are loads of scrap ones around) and swap parts.

You could get another complete, healthy VF-40 or VF-46 and swap that in.

You could go to an upgrade turbo.

 

Once you've done this you probably need to go back to your tuner and have him set up your MBC again. Add me to the list of people who doesn't like MBCs on daily driver cars, for the same reasons as stated earlier. Also agree it's your car and your responsibility to educate yourself as to the pros and cons of the various methods of boost control available to you.

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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Uhm a 20G makes a lot more power than any VF40 could ever put out...

i was disappointed that he only made like 20 more ft/lbs of torque than i put down. his HP was plenty more tho.

i dont think he'd be that much faster.

the extra cost doesnt seem worth it.

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You have some learning to do. Peak numbers aren't the only thing that matter. The area under the curve is. And you can't accurately compare against different dynos. His might have been low reading. Yours might have been high reading. Your numbers might be corrected. It might have been hot when he did his pulls.
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As far as your choices go, if you get a replacement WG actuator, even if stock, you're going to have to make adjustments to your stuff again afterwards. There are slight variations in everything, so if you swap the actuator from one turbo to your own, it might be a little off (arm bent a teeny tiny bit, not as long, etc.), or you'll have to dial the MBC back in...

 

But that's moot now because it's not your actuator that's messed up, it's your WG flapper.

 

If you change your turbo, you'll need another tune unless it's a VF40.

 

Educate yourself on the pros and cons an EBCS vs MBC. I've made them very clear, and even the guy that kept saying that Ed is an awesome tuner never refuted any of my points/facts. Read your own thread that you linked where Ed and tons of other people responded. Read what others have said in THIS thread.

 

THEN decide what tuning method you want. Again, for a DD, I strongly believe you should be using an MBC.

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VF46 .... just more reliable/updated design of the VF40?

 

No extra power potential over the VF-40, but less reported failures. You don't need to retune if you're keeping the MBC. You need to get your tuner to reset the MBC again.

 

Having said that, I'd ditch the MBC and get a new tune using the stock boost control system.

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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You have some learning to do. Peak numbers aren't the only thing that matter. The area under the curve is. And you can't accurately compare against different dynos. His might have been low reading. Yours might have been high reading. Your numbers might be corrected. It might have been hot when he did his pulls.

you're right. i havent seen his dyno sheet.

mine peaks at around 3400rpm and stays pretty flat to redline.

the same tuner that tuned mine, tuned his, same dyno.

its was 92° when I tuned, it was a lot cooler for him.

 

no doubt his makes more power, and his car should be faster from a roll.

but in my opinion the power gain isn't worth the extra cost and hassle when i have to pass emissions inspection. not likely the technician will notice a different turbo, but...

 

with the new smog tests in california, i'm not sure that i can leave a tune on my car when they scan the OBDII port, and if i run a different turbo and tell my computer to "behave like stock" will the engine run like shit with a different turbo?

 

they just changed things for this year. so theres not much info out there yet in regards to the new smog check and tuned cars.

 

also if my tranny goes boom from the added power, then i'm really screwed cause i can't afford that.

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this afternoon i spoke with my tuner, and 2 friends that have local shops, one who also specializes in Subaru and then another friend (who is a member on here) who has a blown VF40 sitting in his garage.

 

i discussed a whole new turbo (even a vf52), supporting equipment, and a retune with my tuner. i didnt even want to ask how much, but i'm thinking thats the $2000+ route.

 

then i called another shop, because i know he has someone else's VF46 sitting around that came off the car i mentioned before that now has a 20g.

he said since just the hot side of the turbo is faulty, i could get the hot side from another vf40 and mate them up.

 

so then i called a friend with a blown vf40, and i made arrangments to source parts from his blown vf40 and take it to one of those shops for repair this week.

not something i want to attempt in my driveway.

 

i think thats the most cost effective route. not my first preference for a repair, but financially it makes the most sense, and i dont have cash to throw around right now

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well got my car back today.. had the busted hotside of my turbo replaced with half of another turbo. seems to work great! so much more power now that the wastegate functions haha.

 

i just did a datalog i'll post up in a new thread, i think i adjusted the boost controller to the right spot.

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