Diavolo

i think i get it, youre wondering if theres a difference between the original factory map and a stage 0? im curious what information smog sees now? i might have to go ask a smog tech. i no longer have a LGT but my current car i have a Cobb AP and stage 1 is CARB approved. however i am on a protune, but i wonder if i dont unmarry the AP and just reflash to stage 1 OTS map if that will be good enough because i also dont want to unmarry the thing.

Im in the Bay Area. I dont have an AP 002 anymore because i dont have my 05 LGT anymore either. I do have a resistor that should work, and I might have a stock map "stage 0" i could send you, if somehow that would help? have you tried your AP with a different cable?

wow! so it really was boiling? glad you got it solved (?) yeah caps are important, also the two caps are not the same if i recall, so whenever replacing make sure to get ones that hold the correct pressure. anytime theres a small leak in the coolant system it will cause it to not circulate as well and that could cause damage.

next time before you start your car after it has been sitting and the engine is completely cold.... click the key on, but dont start the engine, then turn the key off. if you hear the sound its not bubbling/boiling because nothing got hot. its the climate control actuators. common problem. if you ever take them out you can lube them up or replace them.

did you check wheel bearing?

prefer not to ship. i will accept most any reasonable offer, as i have no use for this now. 05-09 LGT engine cover in used condition (fair). i paid $80 for it. belt cover support bracket in new condition. i paid $14 for it. Wanted to fit it on my WRX, and it wouldve worked, except i changed the turbo inlet hose. now i have no use for this stuff.

If youre a fan of motorsports, or you just believe that manufacturers should have the right to make performance parts that people can purchase to modify their street car into a race car for use on a race track then this will interest you. It will be a shame if people can't build their street car into a race car anymore. Recognizing the Protection of Motorsports Act (RPM Act) You can learn more here: https://www.sema.org/epa-news Sign the petition here: https://www.votervoice.net/SEMA/campaigns/45394/respond

its the wheel bearing

youre talking about the thing below the airbox in the bumper? that wont make that sort of noise. it wont matter if you have that thing on or not. what kind of leak test did they do? because its obvious it has a leak. if your car sounds like it has a BOV check the clamps and fitment of the hoses near the bypass / recir ...whatever valve its called, the factory equivalent of the BOV. also make sure its tight to the manifold and the end tanks are on good.

check: alternator belt not tight enough or fusible link

if you weld an aftermarket cat into your downpipe, it is still illegal modification to factory emissions system and they will impound your car if they really want to. if you want to make legal modifications to your exhaust system it will have to be behind the FACTORY catalytic converter. resonator is pointless. having a cat will quiet it down and smooth out the sound.

i sketched up a diagram for someone, i thought it might be good to put it here too. this is from memory of something i did in a couple hours 4 years ago so apologies if its not exactly accurate but should get you there! as mentioned I havent owned a subaru for a few years now so i dont have an actual vehicle anymore for reference either

its the new radiator cap. also replace that hose!!!!

the coolant is becoming heated. theres too much pressure, thats why the hose is swelling. was the new thermostat tested before installed?

just because i have to ask; you've checked that the noise is coming from the transmission and not just where the pedal is mounted under the dash? or some short of linkage rubbing?

memories. haha! been there done that, I saw you posted in the thread i made 5 years ago when I changed my heater core. I said it there too, but I will repeat it here for anyone searching in the future: You dont have to evacuate your AC. Theres a bracket in the engine bay you can unbolt thats holding the lines. With it loose it will give you enough wiggle room to get the heater core out. I wish I could provide more specifics but it was so long ago I dont remember, and I no longer own the car to reference.

Hi Everyone, I sold my car two years ago so haven't been around here. Sorry to leave you hanging. I got an email about another thread I was still subscribed to so I came back to answer that and saw I had a PM about this. I had to refresh my memory on what the Jazzy mod was. No disrespect to Jazzy, but having to take apart the factory radio and play a silent CD all the time seems overly complicated and incomplete. Especially if you're just left with a couple of RCA plugs hanging out the back somewhere. Even Jazzy instructions have "recommended additional parts" that you'd need, unless your audio device has RCA stereo out. I think my version is more complete, no risk to the headunit, and looks pretty much factory except 1 little hidden switch. Plus you get a cool jack in a convenient spot to plug a USB charging cable in, next to the typical 3.5mm aux audio cable. You don't have to do it like that, but its pretty simple and looks very nice. The sound is as good as you're going to get from your audio source because its hard wired into the factory head unit just like the Jazzy version. Except unlike the Jazzy version, mine does not have two audio sources competing putting signal in at the same time. I don't know if a silent CD could truly be silent? The CD player is playing simultaneously with the Jazzy. Mine doesn't need a silent CD playing. My set up is going to sound as good as the Jazzy mod or better. My version is not a FM transmitter, and its not limited to FM quality radio, it doesn't rely on any signal from the antenna. The cool thing about the Jazzy version is its powered internally by the headunit. However, in my opinion the silent CD is lame, and if you have a 6 disc in dash that the springs eventually sag on, or your CD gets lost or damaged or the laser burns out from constant use or some other failure you're screwed. My way is self reliant and more dependable. You dont even have to have any radio signal or radio antenna for it to work and definitely no silent CD. Unlike the Jazzy you have to supply a power source for the Modulator, but thats easy. It also needs a little switch if you want to turn it off to allow FM radio signal from the antenna through. Whichever way you decide, its about the same amount of difficulty and you have to take apart the same parts of your car. Except my way you dont have to take apart the head unit too. My way is more simple plug and play. The extra stuff like turning the cigarette lighter plug in the center console into a USB and Aux in is optional. You could do that part with the Jazzy too. Both the FM modulator or jazzy board just gives you RCA plugs hardwired into the back of the head unit, what you do with them after that is up to you. Another cool thing is theres even better modulators out now, and you can get ones that have bluetooth. Technology is better and cost less than what I spent 4 years ago. Its a universal part and widely available whereas in the future Jazzy might not be available.

Hi, I got an email about this thread having a new post because I guess im still subscribed to it. I started this thread 5 years ago. wow! time flies. I hadn't logged in here in almost 3 years, and I sold my car about 2 years ago. It was running great when i sold it, and as far as I know it still is. Sometimes I miss it, but we had our time (8 years) together. To answer your question, yes you have to take off that 'big horizontal support beam'. I did not have to evacuate my AC. I was able to unbolt a bracket that held the AC lines in the engine bay. That will give you wiggle room to take the heater core out. Its behind the big black plastic thing in the middle which you cant move with the beam in the way. Sorry I cant give specifics, I don't remember. It was something I only ever saw one time 5 years ago. good luck! when you're putting everything back dont forget to triple check that you hook up all the plugs in the dash, and if you need to service your climate control actuator things nows the time to do it. if theyre making that "gurgle" type of noise when you shut the car off, you can open them up and clean and lube them.

This set up still works great! It's easy. You don't have to install it like I did. You could just hijack the antenna input run power and then leave the auxiliary plug hanging out from under the center console. I just went the extra steps to make it look factory

Well, do it like this if you want to be cool like me. Results look OEM, with the exception of a little on / off switch. Sound quality is awesome!!! Shouldn't take more than a couple hours to install. Parts: Less than $100. If anyone in the San Francisco Bay Area wants this, and needs install help hit me up. Get the parts and come over to my garage in the 925 and I'll install it. Not gonna go step by step with a write up but heres some basics.. Remove your stereo and install the FM modulator. Theres a metal bar behind the stereo you can zip tie it to. Run power wires over to the fuse box, and use the fuse tap to power it. Take the audio cables and go under the shifter and center console. With your center console removed, take the power plug out. Bore the hole a little bigger (i used a uni-bit) so the USB / RCA / 3.5 mm plug thing fits in the hole. plug your USB phone charger into the old power plug, plug in the new USB wire, tape it up and shove it into a hole behind where the parking brake is. Theres perfect space there, but you'll need to extend the old plug wires. Zip tie the remaining wires up nice. Go back to your car and use the female to female RCA adapters to attach the new RCA wires in your center console to the RCA's coming out from the FM modulator. Drill a 1/4 hole and install the switch from the modulator where ever you want. I put it behind the parking brake near the lid for the center console If you did it right you should be able to flip the little switch and your FM modulator will turn on and hijack your antenna input and your Aux will be on. Your radio will need to be on the right frequency for the Aux signal. I set all my presets on FM2 to that frequency. So i just hit FM2 and flip the switch and tada!!!! ...also the USB works to charge my phone too. Audiovox FM100A FM Modulator with IST2 Isolation Transformer $40.00 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001KO7UI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 2 Meter 3ft USB and 2RCA to USB & 3.5mm $12.00 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F1W9CHS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Metra 40-SB30 Antenna Adapter for Subaru FM Modulator $14.00 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K53QBA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Mini Blade Fuse Add-A-Circuit Fuse Holder $6.00 https://www.amazon.com/Pico-0956PT-Blade-Circuit-Holder/dp/B001QRSBW0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1479697397&sr=8-5&keywords=fuse+tap a USB phone charger thingy, which you probably already have if you charge your phone in the car. $8 approx 2 RCA female to female adapters $5

just bumping this to say I had the same issue and taking apart the little motor and regreasing the gears seems to have fixed the problem. it's only been 1 day, but hopefully it stays quiet. edit: its been a month and a half now... seems to have worked!

i'm due again about that time too. you'll pass i passed that way (left the stage 2 pro-tune on, swapped down pipe) last time and it was a sniffer test then. it came up a little dirtier than the previous smog but still passed. one of my buddies passed the current OBD test a little while back with a cobb catted downpipe, invidia catback and off the shelf cobb stage two flash.

I lost heat on the passenger side about a year ago. Recently my car was starting to have overheating problems. Running a little hotter than normal and approaching overheating under load. Hopefully I dont have a headgasket problem. Still got some things to work out but the temp seems to be back down to normal, even though i havent done extensive testing. The "gurgling" behind the dash is likely some actuator thing read this: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/sound-inside-dash-turn-off-car-190728p5.html My car makes this noise still. It will make the sound if i click the key forward and back without starting the car. So i know its not a bubbling sound, because the engine isnt even warm.

A couple weekends ago I replaced my heater core and radiator. Honestly, replacing the heatercore wasn't that bad a job at all. Just takes a while to get to and put everything back. Took me about 9 hours. http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y232/diavolo90/20150815_180519_resized_1_resized_zpswmrbpapb.jpg The reason I started this thread is to show you guys what the inside of an old clogged up one looks like. I tried to flush mine many times, with all kinds of stuff. It just wasnt working, replacement was the only option to return heat to the passenger side. The bottom was completely clogged with goop, had the consistency of car wax. http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y232/diavolo90/20150830_134115_resized_resized_zpsfpfrxoxt.jpg http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y232/diavolo90/20150830_134709_resized_resized_zpslthy57eg.jpg I scraped some out with a stick, looks like a giant booger. There were longer rubber band like chunks in there too. Nasty. Moral of the story: Flush your heater core while you still can.

Catalytic converters have to be replaced 1 for 1, and only then, with parts approved by the California Air Resource Board (carb). Most aftermarket downpipes at best have one cat in them, and its not a CARB approved cat. So it fails in California on visual even if it might pass the sniffer. Its not an approved aftermarket cat, and it should have 2 in the DP. The header won't past visual either, but they apparently went unnoticed.