Kastley85891 Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 OP - ED @ EQ is a very, very good tuner, you made a sound choice. Good to see you are sensible in trusting a pro. When you speak to him tell him Kastley85891 from NASIOC says hello and to look out for some EJ20 heads coming his way for the EQ treatment ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted January 7, 2013 Share Posted January 7, 2013 Again MBC have there place as do other methods of boost control But not here for the op, so what's the argument about? Just in principle? iNVAR never said to never get a MBC or there is never a place for one, but for the vast majority of street driven Subies sub-stage 3 and regular mods, why circumvent a smart system that just works and can be adjusted? Because Fast and Furious and that it gives you a knob to fiddle with and point to at car meets? Sounds like it's obvious what op should do based on the symptoms. I love it when people come in the tuning forums, asking for advice, then they reject that advice and claim they are working with pro tuners. Then why are you here, brah? It's your car. Ultimately we don't give two shits what you do with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted January 7, 2013 Share Posted January 7, 2013 Per EQ Tuning The only major drawback of the MBC is that it leaves the customer the power to potentially turn up the boost and cause damage. I've found this not to be an issue as long as the customer is fully educated and understands that if he messes with the MBC, he will likely cause problems. Most people don't want to blow their engines, so they take this advice seriously and don't mess with the MBC after the tune. There is also some risk that someone else will turn up the boost if they have access to your engine bay. We usually install the MBC's in a discreet location so its not obviously visible and not too easily accessible. This alleviates most of that risk. We also do mark the MBC after its set so you have a visual reference of where its supposed to be. So, look for the markings on the MBCS and return it to its original position. From that point go talk to them if a MBC is the right choice for you since you seem to be overboosting by a fair amount in the winter by circumventing the built-in measures to prevent this from happening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diavolo Posted January 8, 2013 Author Share Posted January 8, 2013 The markings washed off, otherwise obviously I could have just put it back. Give me a little more credit than that haha. So I talked to Ed a few days ago. Described what was going on, and he advised me to check the lines for a leak. I noticed some wear but not an obvious hole. Kastley85891 posted before and suggested that this may be the problem as well. After I get around to replacing them,.. we'll see if that was the problem. Because adjusting the controller is making no difference. I'll probably swap out the lines on thursday. I haven't been driving that much anyways, and definitely keeping my foot out of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diavolo Posted January 8, 2013 Author Share Posted January 8, 2013 Diavolo, you are actually a good example of why I strongly, strongly believe the stock BCS should've been retained. Look at the difficulty you've experienced so far, from temperature fluctuations. turns out it's likely due to a leak. i'll keep ya updated. keep in mind i live in california. the temp swing isnt as extreme as some other places. i didnt have this problem last winter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diavolo Posted January 8, 2013 Author Share Posted January 8, 2013 Because Fast and Furious and that it gives you a knob to fiddle with and point to at car meets? I love it when people come in the tuning forums, asking for advice, then they reject that advice and claim they are working with pro tuners. i appreciate your input. however as i mentioned i may have mis-diagnosed the problem. Don't be an elitist dickhead and assume I or anyone else is some fanboy. as far as working with a professional tuner, its not a claim if that was directed at me? Ed tuned my car. Thats pretty factual. He runs a great shop, is extremely knowledgeable, talented, and treats his clients very well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 I'm not assuming anything but it's irritating when advice is given and then rejected on the basis of "I'm actually working with someone else and therefore will not listen to you guys". What I was saying is if Ed tuned the car, and I don't doubt for one second his abilities, he is the best qualified individual to offer advice and help you, should you have future problems from this point forward. So if advice is given to you and you feel is wrong, rather than arguing the point, just back out and talk to Ed at that point. In that link you quote, EQ Tuning is making a point to educate the customer what is going on. Pay close attention next time. If you are overboosting or having any other issues, then the best thing to do is stay out of it and go right to the tuner. I wasn't trying to insult your knowledge regarding those markings but people miss obvious things all the time. In your reasonable effort to try and correct the problem, unfortunately it was made worse and gotten to the point where you were left at a place where you really couldn't tell how much the MBC was altered in the hopes of returning it back to where it was. Lesson learned. Don't mess with that knob I would tape it to prevent accidental fiddling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTTuner Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 For your information.......I cracked a piston hitting overboost so be carefull! If you can't get to your tuner right away I would recomend closing the MBC so you don't keep overboosting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diavolo Posted January 9, 2013 Author Share Posted January 9, 2013 For your information.......I cracked a piston hitting overboost so be carefull! If you can't get to your tuner right away I would recomend closing the MBC so you don't keep overboosting. That's the problem, I can't close it. Something else is the issue causing it to overboost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeleodee Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 Did you already check for vacuum leaks? I'll mention again, what has changed with your restrictor pill? And have you unhooked the mbc and routed the wastegate straight to the turbo compressor bypassing the mbc like suggested before and then datalogged? That will help you determine where the leak may be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 the actuator isn't opened by vacuum. it's opened by boost pressure. but it sounds like you just mixed up your words and already knew that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeleodee Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 Yeah, I did. Just woke when posted. Fixed an Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strizzy Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 I noticed you mentioned you had the Hallman tightened all the way? its definitely down all the way and still overboosting. With a Hallman, all the way OUT is no/WG boost. I'm running a HYBRID bcs setup with a Hallman Pro RX mbc and HOA/Prodrive ebcs. My bad luck build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diavolo Posted January 10, 2013 Author Share Posted January 10, 2013 I noticed you mentioned you had the Hallman tightened all the way? With a Hallman, all the way OUT is no/WG boost. geez! a couple of you guys really must think i'm retarded. i didnt say it was "tightened" i said it was "down", as in turned down. did you notice i had wrote: Thanks for the input. I have a Hallman... it obvious which way is up or down cause it has arrows on the end and a + & - its definitely down all the way and still overboosting. i wonder if theres a leak somewhere? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strizzy Posted January 10, 2013 Share Posted January 10, 2013 Just trying to clarify. When you say down, I think that the knob has been turned all the way down, which would be fully tightened, if you are looking at the mbc in a vertical position. My bad luck build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diavolo Posted January 13, 2013 Author Share Posted January 13, 2013 So I replaced the vacuum lines on the boost controller last friday. It did not solve the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted January 13, 2013 Share Posted January 13, 2013 hook the line directly up from the turbo compressor to your wastegate actuator and see what happens. in other words, bypass the mbc completely and see what happens. you shouldn't get more than about 8-10 psi. maybe your mbc is broken. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diavolo Posted January 15, 2013 Author Share Posted January 15, 2013 Thanks. I bypassed the MBC and with wastegate only, I easily hit 18.5 before I got off the throttle. So apparently its not a problem with the MBC. Explains why I couldn't adjust boost. So now I need to replace the wastegate actuator Where can I buy one?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 Well that's not good... You should be able to reach down and move the actuator with your hand. What happens when you do that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diavolo Posted January 15, 2013 Author Share Posted January 15, 2013 I took the heatshield off just now, so I could try to move it by hand. Pushing towards the firewall. I am unable to move it. I think I may have got the faintest budge... But I'm not a very big dude, so I don't have a lot of force to put behind it. I also stuck my phone in the engine bay and snapped a picture looking back up towards the rod. It doesn't see to be hitting the side, so it should be free to move. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 Actually, I don't think you're supposed to be able to open it by hand. Maybe just barely crack it open but not sure. Something's definitely not right thought if you're developing more than WG pressure with the line hooked up directly like that, hmm... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diavolo Posted January 15, 2013 Author Share Posted January 15, 2013 Well, yeah. The actuator isn't opening the wastegate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 Yeah, I know that, your WG is obviously not opening... And you're absolutely sure the line is good and not leaking and connected all snug? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diavolo Posted January 15, 2013 Author Share Posted January 15, 2013 yup. i replaced the lines the other day with new ones. everything was nice and snug as it should be. i'm gonna pick up a used wastegate actuator tomorrow, and hopefully that will solve the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeeeeeYa Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 Just to make sure, because what I've read doesn't make it clear to me iNVAR's advice was followed: A single good new (not one from the car's existing) hose is connected between compressor nipple and wastegate, secured by clamps on both ends. Pictured example in this link: http://www.avoturboworld.com/avoshop/avo380-ballbearing-turbo-25liter-ej25-p-18.html That said, if I were concerned about my wastegate's operation, I would attach a pressure source with a gauge... such as my brake bleeder... and apply a pressure to a) verify at what psi the wg opened, or b) that it would not open at pressures well in excess of spring pressure. Then I would know whether the wastegate was working or not. It cannot be tested by hand, only as described. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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