thisisthenewsic Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 Overextending it could damage it. But it should be leaking fluid if the seals were damaged when it was overextended Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitelightning Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 I'm sure it could but in my opinion you wouldn't have the pressure to move the fork like you do. Either way I think it would be leaking by now. The only thought I have is to put it all back together and be very careful to watch every detail. Take a little sand paper to the dowels and I put grease on everything including the threaded studs on the bottom to help it slide together. Check the flywheel bolts too. Make sure you torqued them in the right pattern etc. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 When I get off work tonight I'm going to reinstall everything and see if that works. Can over extending the slave cylinder damage it and make it not work properly without actually leaking any fluid? When the fork broke originally I am sure that it fully extended. I don't think so. I'm trying to remember back to my honda civic day's. I seem to recall just pushing the piston back in one day. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingbang Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 I don't think so. I'm trying to remember back to my honda civic day's. I seem to recall just pushing the piston back in one day. I just rebuilt my slave with the subaru rebuild kit. Yeah, the piston just pops out and in with the little dick thing sitting in the piston cup. You said you had about an inch of travel, so that seems about right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yfarmeaahka Posted October 31, 2012 Author Share Posted October 31, 2012 I'm going to try to get off work early so I can run home and remove the flywheel and take the whole setup back to work and test if it releases properly on the press. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nsr Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 Not following what setup youre using, but I once had a different clutch setup than stock. It required a pedal adjustment to get proper freeplay and disengage point. A couple of 1/4 turns later and the clutch disengaged 3/8 of stroke from the floor, and freeplay was in spec. Maybe your install was fine, but the combo of parts needs the pedal adjusted. Not the stops, but specifically the clevis rod that pushes the piston. * I went from a stock clutch to centerforce dual friction on my ls1 swapped car. The clutch slipped and had no freeplay. This also happened when using f1 eBay clutches on my Nissan. Same fix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yfarmeaahka Posted October 31, 2012 Author Share Posted October 31, 2012 It has very slight play before it starts getting stiff but I mean mm amount of play. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yfarmeaahka Posted October 31, 2012 Author Share Posted October 31, 2012 Alright it took a little less than 1/2in to be able to move the clutch with a small screwdriver, like maybe a mm or 2 less. I have no idea if that's ideal or not but I did get it to disengage on a press. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitelightning Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 I would try to adjust the pedal. It's above the gas pedal and a major pita in my opinion. Don't forget to plug the gas pedal back in either... like I do every time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yfarmeaahka Posted November 1, 2012 Author Share Posted November 1, 2012 So should I adjust the rod to be pushed in more I guess? If I adjust it that way anymore I'm goin to have to push the rod in just to get it connected back to the pedal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitelightning Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 Don't disconnect it. Loosen the nut on the back and turn the rod counter clockwise a quarter turn at a time until it releases. Hopefully that will cure it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitelightning Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 Use plyers to turn the rod. Hard to get in there. Enjoy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
branab3 Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 Dude! This sucks, it is most like just a clutch rod adjustment under the dash, I did the same crap you are doing only to find out it needed to be turned about three turns in to give the slave cylinder the right amount of throw to disengage the clutch. I have read through this whole thread, I have had the same clutch and flywheel in my car for over 60K now, stock engine and such, but driveablitity is very important to me. I dumped the factory DMFW for a 19 lb Competition Clutch SMLFW and their stage 3 clutch and pressure plate set up, great pedal and can hold my over 4k launches, maybe not alot, but it is stock. Good luck dude! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 May be I'm lucky, I have never adjusted the pedal for either of my Spec clutches. I do remember having to do it back in the 70's when I replaced the clutch in my 1970 Duster 340. All the clutched we used in the civic race car, never had to adjust the pedal. Look every thing over, something must not be right. Make sure the tob is hitting all the fingers on the PP. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yfarmeaahka Posted November 1, 2012 Author Share Posted November 1, 2012 It is definitely worth trying the clutch pedal adjustment. I kinda wish I tried that before I tore it down again. I'm putting everything back together tonight so we will see how that works fo me. Branab did you have this problem with a clutch masters flywheel or an ACT flywheel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
branab3 Posted November 2, 2012 Share Posted November 2, 2012 All Competition Clutch, I dont consider it a problem, just a difference from factory to aftermarket. I respect your thoughts too Max Acpacity, we raced a CRX for years, looked alot like your avatar pic, but blue,green and purple and N/A w/ H22 swap in it. All built by Endyne in Ft. Worth TX, the engine anyway, but the rest of the car I built. We replaced a few clutches on the D16 and never had to adjust anything, but the symptoms Yfarmeaakha is having was the exact same thing I had happen to me and tore everything out thinking the TOB slippied off or the fork did, but it just wasn't getting enough throw to depress the pressure plate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yfarmeaahka Posted November 2, 2012 Author Share Posted November 2, 2012 Branab you were right. I put everything back together and this time had play in the fork and everything is perfect. I haven't been this excited sense the day I discovered marshmallow cream. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingbang Posted November 2, 2012 Share Posted November 2, 2012 So was it pedal adjustment or did you reinstall the clutch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yfarmeaahka Posted November 2, 2012 Author Share Posted November 2, 2012 I just reinstalled it, some must have bound up the TOB or something. I'm glad it works but I am a bit bothered not knowing what the problem was. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitelightning Posted November 2, 2012 Share Posted November 2, 2012 Well that's good! Wish we could have figured out what the culprit was... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 2, 2012 Share Posted November 2, 2012 That's great to hear. I know how you must feel, why can't things work the first time you put them together. Seems like I end up doing a lot of things twice before I get it right. It took me 3 or 4 try's to get the engine to mate up to the tranny. Finally figured out I had to jack the back of the car up more. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yfarmeaahka Posted November 2, 2012 Author Share Posted November 2, 2012 Yeah I struggled the first time because I had the bottom of the transmission flush and was trying to push the top flush but it wouldn't go because the dal pins were trying to go in a hair turned with the angle of the transmission. I backed it up and hair pushed the back up and had a buddy tilt the engine and it slipped right in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yfarmeaahka Posted November 2, 2012 Author Share Posted November 2, 2012 So far the clutch feels amazing. A little softer than my exedy and a whole lot smoother. It smells terrible still but I've only put maybe 15 miles on it. I'm going to put it on the alignment rack after work and she will be as good as new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted November 4, 2012 Share Posted November 4, 2012 Glad it worked out and glad we were able to get you the flywheel. -Mike Paisan http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber |AIM: AZP Installs "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schastleevo Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 This time (about 7k miles after the first time http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/images/smilies/spin.gif) the actual pivot ball broke leaving some of the bolt still in the threads on the transmission. That's exactly what my clutch fork did to me last week. I've been searching for someone who is making a stronger fork to prevent this from happening again. Unfortunately I'm not having any luck with the searches, But I've read so many postings about clutch fork failure, I'm surprised I haven't found anything except for adding welds in the fork "tangs", around the pivot area, or welding on another plate at the pivot area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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