Yfarmeaahka

Is this intercooler going to 100% for sure fit both lgt and sti style turbos like the PW? I'm kinda antsy and want to get my turbo while I can at the moment and I want to be sure I wont screw myself getting and sti style.

I will be 100% in on this TMIC group buy if it fits both lgt and sti style turbos! I am currently waiting to see what happens in this thread before I purchase my new turbo. Does that radiator shroud happen to fit with a mishimoto radiator? Love the tool tray idea.

Epics are a 1" front and .8" rear. Tein claims the H techs only drop .9" front and rear, S techs drop 1.54" front and 1.46"rear. I havent seen any in person but it sounds like H techs would be close to the epics but dont help out the saggy butt issue.

I believe he was referring to the Tein H tech springs from his title. Those springs will work but I believe will have a little less drop than the epic springs.

Does anyone know if these koni strut extenders apply to the legacys? http://www.tougetuning.com/store/tic-drex-koni-strut-extenders-p-614.html

What strut mounts would be the best for the koni struts? Will spec B mounts work on these or would you have to go oem?

I got my AVO turbo inlet in today and installed it in about 2 1/2 hours so it want too bad. My stutter and possible misfire is now gone!

I was having a lot of trouble getting all of the spaghetti off of the inlet so I ended up taking the intake manifold off enough to be able lift it up some to make my life a little easier anyways so im not too worried about fitment.

I believe I found my issue, I found a hole in my factory turbo inlet hose right at the clamp on the turbo. It looks like someone over tightened it quite a bit but I never noticed because Ive never had it off. I ordered an AVO one so hopefully this resolves my issue.

My tuner got back with me and told me he did look at the AVCS and everything looked perfectly normal. He said he looked over everything and the only thing he saw was that when it started bucking in that "sweet spot" it was hitting very lean spots which is what told him it was a misfire not being detected by the car.

Got a connector ordered, thanks for the help. I have right at 138k on it so it may be about that time to replace the ocv. I'll talk with my tuner and see if he was looking at that yesterday or not. As for now, I'll be playing the waiting game for these dang parts.

We did a lot of logging and no cylinder misfires popped up at all and we spent probly 30 minutes driving around while he logged different things. We were using RR because I dont have AP but if RR didnt see misfires AP wouldnt either. I will order one of those connectors that just made my life easier, thank you. what is OCV, oil control valve?

I found a local tuner that tuned my car for me and sorted out a few things for me and got my car running good. Shortly after my car started bucking from around 2k-2500rpm with the boost between +- 5psi from 0. I contacted my tuner and he took a look at it and we datalogged some and he couldnt find anything but a very lean condition happening when it started bucking and he said it felt like a misfire for sure. We popped the hood and looked around for a few and I have an sti UP that was on the car when I bought it that has no heat shield. I had noticed before when i was changing spark plugs that the connector lock was broken off on the coil right by the UP and I assumed it was just brittle from heat. My tuner said he thinks its a cracked coil at that cylinder from the extra heat that isnt being blocked by a shield and its shorting out somewhere and so the car is detecting its sparking but the spark isnt making it to the plug at times. He cleaned up a little bit of knock for me and sent me on my way and usually after I put a new tune on the car doesnt want to idle or run well for a few but this time it lasted for my 20min drive home and and still not idling. It will idle fine when I really get on it then let it idle down but if its idling and I barely touch the throttle it will jump the rpm as it should then it drops idle super low and either shakes for just a second and idles back up or it just dies on me. I ordered a new coil to try that and im going to replace that connector when I find a replacement. Anyone heard of anything like this or have any advice for me I would be more than happy to read about it.

I have probly sent shamar 6 emails of me correcting mess ups that has mess ups in them, that dude is going to hate me lol. I have everything working correctly and all my files sorted out and it should be smooth sailing from here.

And deleting RR and reinstalling it did the trick.

There is a huge list of things and everything shamar asked me to log was on it besides the knock sum, I don't know. I'll try and delete all of RR and reinstall everything tomorrow and see if I just missed something. What is a sufficient amount of driving for the computer to relearn everything? I'm assuming until everything smoothens out and starts running right. I had no idea what to expect so when I flashed the base map everything was running like crap and my check engine light came on and the cruise light started flashing (I didn't know at the time that cruise does that with the check engine light). I opened learning view and just saw it was an evap leak from the gas cap so I just clicked it a couple more times.

Thanks for the help, I already had the DTC's up I just wasnt sure how to clear them. So that means I just have to recheck the parameters next time I log?

I was connected to the vehicle at the time, I set everything up sitting in my car because it was very nice outside. Anyone know how to clear DTC's with the tactrix?

See that wasnt avaliable in my list, I wonder what log definition im missing then.

I had it connected to the car, is there another definition file to download besides whats on the RR website? It just wasn't on the list of parimeters on RR. Also is there a way to clear DTC's with RR learning view? I noticed you can read them but I didnt see anything to clear them.

I ended up giving up and ordering a tactrix cable and it works like a charm. I got on RR and download all the latest definitions. My tuner wanted me to log knock sum (count) and I could only find knock in degrees. Anyone know how to get knock sum?

Alright I just found the definition so all i need is learning view to work.

As I posted in the Opensource tuning thread, I got everything working I believe but RR definition files and learning view. RR doesnt show on their website what the definition is for a 06 Legacy GT MT is. Learning view doesnt recognize the cable. On the top left where there is ports it's shows nothing and has nothing in the scroll down thing. Any suggestions?

The cd is just full of drivers and files, there isnt an install thing or anything. I installed the cd and nothing happened so I opened it in my computer and then I downloaded ecuflash and before I could it said I needed the lates flash, I downloaded flash and then ecuflash, hoocked up the cable let it load the drivers then opened ecuflash and it was not recognizing the cable. If you have tips from here feel free to post them. Now when I did it on xp the thread says to manually do it so I did and in order to get to "have disc" I had to select a device first and i dont know what device to select so I started picking random ones that i thought could possibly be it and had no luck. No one seems to know what I'm talking about when I say I had to select a device first. So really I didnt install anything from the cd. Amd the ecuflash i downloaded was 1.29 i believe.

I remember now, I did let it automatically install on the windows 7 and thats why it was saying its already up to date when i tried to manually do it. I tried the manual things because when i opened ecuflash it still wasnt recognizing the cable. I had the little mini disc in the whole time on both computers so i am assuming thats how 7 automatically does it because it finds it on the disc.