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German Castrol Syntec 0w30


iyamdman

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I have been lookin all over So. OC for a store with German Castrol Syntec 0w30.

 

I heard that AutoZone has it, but Lakeforest and Mission Viejo don't have it.

 

Maybe too small. What are some of the bigger AZ in OC?

 

Anyone know a store that sells it?

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I have been reading a lot of forum threads on which is the best oil, and the majority say the Castrol is the best.

 

Figured if I can get it, then I will try it.

 

If not, then I will try the Mobil 1 0w40.

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OK, I went in to the Lake Forest Autozone, to see about ordering it - and they had just gotten some in some Castrol Syntec 0w30.

 

Bought the last 2 cases.

 

They said they normally stock it and will get a new shippment on Tuesday.

 

Took it to Tune N Lube in Aliso Viejo and they droped the oil, put on a Pure One PL14612 and away we go!!!

 

It really did smoothen out the engine, and you can really feel the difference in the 3500 - 5000 rpm range.

 

Ya mon!! Good stuff!!

 

MIKEY LIKES IT!!!

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I work right around the corner from the AZ!!...i'll be picking up a case!!...thanks for the info!!

 

If you need some, I've got 39 qts of the stuff in the garage right now. You coming over this weekend to install you stuff?

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Are the -0- weight 30 // 40 oils acceptable under warranty coverage? I read MB specs M1 0w-40, but just because it and GC and others may be superior, I'm not sure SOA will honor warranty if the oil isn't within their guidelines. Kinda sucks if true.

 

What are you paying for GC? Price here is $5.99 / quart!

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If you need some, I've got 39 qts of the stuff in the garage right now. You coming over this weekend to install you stuff?

 

And my gf called ME crazy when I handed her 12 quarts of Mobile1!!:lol::lol:

 

Maybe I should get my hands on some of that stuff.

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Ed_T - the manual says you can use straight 30 , 40 and 20W-50, so as long as your final operating weight/visocity is greater than or equal to 30 and less than or equal to 50, you are fine warranty-wise.
I keed I keeed
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If you need some, I've got 39 qts of the stuff in the garage right now. You coming over this weekend to install you stuff?

 

Leave it to Paul!!...This weekend may be the weekend!! Talked to Sam today...hopefully this weekend i'll have all my parts!!

 

WOO HOO!!...I'll let you know...

 

Peace out brother from another mother! :D

~Sucka-Duck~
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I've read on some UK Subaru boards that Subaru of Japan stated that they do not recommend any 0W-xx oils because they have not been tested in our engines.

 

Here's one mention of that from the following website: http://www.gregh.co.uk/html/sip.htm

 

Subaru Japan have stated that all oils with a 0W rating will invalidate engine warranty. This is because 0W viscosity has not been tested by Fuji Heavy Industries and is unlikely to be tested by them in the near future. It is not a result of engine problems and is not related to synthetic technology or oil quality. This oil which operates at temperatures as low as minus 54 degrees exceeds the quality level required of Subaru vehicles. This oil was used by customers for 2 years in Subaru engines without any claims for engine failure before the Warranty Bulletin was produced regarding OW oils.

Mobil recommend Mobil 1 0W-40 for vehicles outside warranty.

 

Does that concern anyone?

 

Ken

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I've read on some UK Subaru boards that Subaru of Japan stated that they do not recommend any 0W-xx oils because they have not been tested in our engines.

 

Here's one mention of that from the following website: http://www.gregh.co.uk/html/sip.htm

 

 

 

Does that concern anyone?

 

Ken

 

Yeah, I'll not be using it in warranty - until it's approved. Heh, M1 0w-40 is recommended for MB, Porsche, others. Thanks Fuji.

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"feel the difference"

 

i sincerely doubt it. while there are definitely higher quality oils, it's extremely unlikely a driver could ever tell the difference.

 

ever wondered why your car feels faster when it's clean? it's the same mental phenomenon.

 

dR

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eamiller - How's the oil consumption?

 

Just checked it.. with almost 700miles on the oil, it hasn't consumed a drop (the engine has 7690 miles on it total).. Seems better than the M1 EP so far, but it could just be wear in too..

 

This is with all these 90+ degree days we've been having..

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"feel the difference"

 

i sincerely doubt it. while there are definitely higher quality oils, it's extremely unlikely a driver could ever tell the difference.

 

ever wondered why your car feels faster when it's clean? it's the same mental phenomenon.

 

dR

 

 

I'll put it this way, you're wrong.. Just being honest.. Oils can have quite a large effect in how the engine makes power, just look at Redline's testing.. Hang out at BITOG for a while and see if you still think that all oils are the same.

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I've read on some UK Subaru boards that Subaru of Japan stated that they do not recommend any 0W-xx oils because they have not been tested in our engines.

 

Here's one mention of that from the following website: http://www.gregh.co.uk/html/sip.htm

 

 

 

Does that concern anyone?

 

Ken

 

I somehow doubt that 0W oils would cause any problems with our engines, as that rating only applies when the oil is very cold.. Once the engine warms up, the 30wt viscosity is what counts..

 

Besides, here in the US they would have to prove that the oil caused any engine failure, and I've not heard any of the Subaru guys with GC having any lubrication related failures.

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I called my service advisor, and he said 0W-30 is too thin so I didn't want to argue.

 

I'll just go in next time with the datasheets and the manual show him that as long as the final visocity is within specs it is good.

I keed I keeed
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I called my service advisor, and he said 0W-30 is too thin so I didn't want to argue.

 

I'll just go in next time with the datasheets and the manual show him that as long as the final visocity is within specs it is good.

 

My fear with that approach is that in the event of a warranty claim, SOA will be within their rights to deny coverage based upon the owner failing to provide "proper" oil to the car. Presenting evidence of using "wrong" oil (no matter that it could be superior to the recommended oils) will be all it takes for them to say CLAIM DENIED.

 

The recommended weights // specs are in the manual, and apparently do not take into account these more modern oils. FUJI simply hasn't tested them it appears, and may not bother to do so.

 

I believe the synth 0weights are overall superior - especially GC based on what I've read, but it is pure ammo for them to deny warranty coverage.:eek:

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I called my service advisor, and he said 0W-30 is too thin so I didn't want to argue.

 

I'll just go in next time with the datasheets and the manual show him that as long as the final visocity is within specs it is good.

 

 

Go for it.. since when does a service advisor know squat about cars.. :rolleyes: I would take their advice with about a half grain of salt (of course, you probably know this)..

 

If it were me, I would not offer any information to the dealer concerning my maintenance, although I have saved all receipts for any fluid changes that I have done, in case something like this should come up. The likelihood of a lubrication related failure using GC (due to the weight of the oil) is probably less than 0. If anything, bearing wear is reduced upon startup which has only benefits for longevity of the engine.

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Yeah, tell me about, sometimes they are clueless.

 

Here is a thing I want an oil between 10 and 14 cst@100deg, which are the operating viscosities of the majority of 5/10W-30 and 5/10W-40, so GC with 12 cst@100deg is perfect but unless I can get it in writing from my service advisor, I'm not going to go there.

 

My next option is todo my own mix, with 2.5 quarts of Mobil 1 5W-30 and 2.5 quarts of Mobil 1 5-W40, so that their final viscosity would be in the middle.

 

My last option is to go for 5W-40, which may shear down more than a 10W-40 since it has more viscosity modifiers.

I keed I keeed
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I somehow doubt that 0W oils would cause any problems with our engines, as that rating only applies when the oil is very cold.. Once the engine warms up, the 30wt viscosity is what counts..

 

Besides, here in the US they would have to prove that the oil caused any engine failure, and I've not heard any of the Subaru guys with GC having any lubrication related failures.

 

I don't think there would be any probelms also. In fact, I think the original statement from Subaru UK points out that their not recommending 0W oils is not due to observed engine failure but rather from their lack of data (aka CYA). I just posted that link as food for thought. I bet that with the recent increase in 0W-xx oils, Fuji would test them in the near future.

 

I never understood the comment that a 0W-xx oil is "too thin". At operating temperature, a 0W-30, 5W-30 and 10W-30 will all have viscosity within the defined SAE range. Would there be any reason for wanting more viscosity at cold startup?

 

FWIW, I'll also be trying GC 0W-30 with my next oil change. My local Autozone had it for a lower price than M1 10W-30.

 

Ken

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Any of you from the OC recommend a good place for oil changes? Just moved to the area and I am at my GFs place which has little room for anything car maintenance related. Need to change the swill sitting in my engine and need a good place to go.
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