compsurge Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 I thought it was an interference engine? Even if the crank was not at TDC, it would be very hard to bend the valves on spring pressure alone. It takes a lot of force to bend them. If you ran the starter with cams out of time, it would most definitely bend them, however. Source of this info: pro shop engine builder and experience on my part (no, I did not run an engine out of time). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 If your worried about messing with the cams, remove the spark plugs, using a thin screw driver, in the plug hole, rotate the crank and you can fell the piston move tot he middle of the stroke. That way you can be sure your not going to hit a piston. That was talked about in one of the threads a few months back. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted May 7, 2012 Author I Donated Share Posted May 7, 2012 cam gear tool is a worth while purchase. Just the intake one, or intake and exhaust? Also, does this make sense? http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Wiseco-RCS09950-Piston-Ring-Compressor-Sleeve-99-5mm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTTuner Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 Ship it to me and I will build you a nice, NO OIL BURNING EJ25 from scratch. Forged pistons, the works! Lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTTuner Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 The trick is to wrap the crank pulley with an old belt, then chain wrenched it. Use an old belt and lock it down with a couple of long nose vice grips. I swear Subaru has a gorilla at the factory putting those on! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 the avcs cam gears are the tough ones usually. intake cam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted May 7, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted May 7, 2012 No need for the tool IMO. Strap wrench for the top and allen wrench for the bottom. When you get them lined up (if they've slipped), just use the vice grips again. When I did the belt, I used the vice grips to hold them together, but when I pulled off the tensioner, the cams still slipped about 1/2". Lining them back up was easy with an extra pair of hands and those tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted May 7, 2012 Author I Donated Share Posted May 7, 2012 Should I get that piston ring tool? Also, BMX mentioned a "2.5 liter piston tool" -- is that for the pins? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 yes, it's a grabber tool for the piston pins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted May 7, 2012 Author I Donated Share Posted May 7, 2012 Do you have a link to where to buy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 it's a subaru tool. not sure .... look here http://www.costplustools.com/SUBARU-SPECIALTY-TOOLS_c_946.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted May 7, 2012 Author I Donated Share Posted May 7, 2012 http://www.costplustools.com/Kent-Moore-Tools-898968600-PLIERS-PISTON-for-Subaru-All-HOV_p_10661.html ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 those are to remove the snap rings that hold the piston pin centered. you need to take the snap rings out first in order to be able to slide the pin out throguh the side of the block. as you can see on the back sides of the block there are drain plug-looking hex bolt. remove those then turn the crankshaft to visually line up the pins with the holes then you can use the snap ring pliers to remove the ring, then use the puller to slide into the center of the pin, push the collar of the puller forward to grasp the pin, then pull out on the end handle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 be weary, there's a puller for 2.0L and one for 2.5L blocks... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 So. for the money you spent on the tools, for one time use...you could have paid a machine shop to do that. Or shipped it to GTTuner. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted May 7, 2012 Author I Donated Share Posted May 7, 2012 Seriously! Do I need a tool to insert too? It might just be easier to use regular snap ring pliers and then regular pliers to pull out the pin, and then fish the pin and snap ring out after the piston is out if I drop them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 uhhh good luck, lol, there's a reason these tools were made. how are you going to pull the pin out? you need something to slide inside the pin, grab it from the inner center, then pull out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted May 7, 2012 Author I Donated Share Posted May 7, 2012 How exactly does the pin work? The snap ring keeps it in on one side -- what keeps it in on the other? Which side is the snap ring on -- the outside one or the inside one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_7/engine/engine_gasket_and_seal_kit/illustration_1/ see the plugs on both sides? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted May 7, 2012 Author I Donated Share Posted May 7, 2012 How do the pins themselves work, though? Not where do they go out and in, but how are they constructed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 they are piston pins, cylindrical bearings that are hollow. the only way to remove them is to grab them from the inside and pull them out once the snap rings are removed. they attach the rod to the piston, you can't remove the piston without doing this, while keeping the block halves together Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTTuner Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 I usually get a tap, I think 1/2 x20, and lightly tap it with a hammer into the end of the pin then pull it out while twisting it. The crankcase sludge that builds up on the pins sometimes makes removal difficult. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted May 7, 2012 Author I Donated Share Posted May 7, 2012 See anything wrong? http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a325/thefultonhow/Subaru/IMG_20120507_162337.jpg BTW, the guy who was helping me managed to get the pin out with long needlenose pliers. Also, my exhaust valves were white, so I was running lean. I'm strongly considering a WBO2 now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted May 7, 2012 Author I Donated Share Posted May 7, 2012 Opinions: CP or Wiseco? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_sharp Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 Who tuned your car? lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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