No DRFT Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 Use a precised straight edge I have no control over drippie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 They took .005" off my heads. He said one wasn't to bad but he had to keep them even. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 The guy who's helping me with the rebuild says I don't need to get the mating surfaces for the head-to-block machined. Does anyone disagree? Would be cool if it's true... FWIW, my brother put his back on his short block after we cleaned them with a razor blade and checked with a straight edge. So far, nothing bad! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted May 10, 2012 Author I Donated Share Posted May 10, 2012 Some of the parts arrived today, including the pistons. Both heads are off and cleaned, pistons in Cyls 1 and 2 are in. I'm still waiting on my gasket kit and my timing belt kit, and I rounded off three cam cap bolts when taking off the heads (why do they make them out of such soft metal and then torque them down so hard?), so I need to wait for those too. Picture from before the pistons went in: http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a325/thefultonhow/Subaru/IMG_20120510_155351.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted May 11, 2012 Author I Donated Share Posted May 11, 2012 The pistons are in, the ARP studs are in, the heads are ready to go on, but I haz no gaskets! The Gates belt kit is backordered, so I won't have it or the gasket kit until the middle of next week. http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a325/thefultonhow/Subaru/IMG_20120511_150231.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 You talkin about the racing belt? Hope you didnt actually waste your money on that one over the regular gates timing belt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted May 11, 2012 Author I Donated Share Posted May 11, 2012 You talkin about the racing belt? Hope you didnt actually waste your money on that one over the regular gates timing belt The Kevlar one was $26 more. I said "why not?" But apparently the answer was "Because it is back-ordered and you won't get your motor together as quickly." At this point, I'd only get the non-Kevlar one a day or two earlier, so it doesn't make sense to change my order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 Because backorder. BECAUSE BACKORDER! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted May 11, 2012 Author I Donated Share Posted May 11, 2012 On another topic, safety of e-tune with wideband vs. safety of dyno tune. GO! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 IMHO a dyno tune. 1. Tuner is in your car to feel and see responses(noises, hesitation) whether good or bad. 2. Dyno room environment remains constant as well as load put forth on the car's drivetrain. It comes down to simple science- keeping a variable constant renders a more accurate change in the other variable. 3. Most power, changes such as AVCS tuning and fine tuning MBT can be visually represented on the graph thus showing a change and effect of the tuner's changes. 4. Ability to log AFR graphically. This is rather important as some maf scales have dips and humps either lean or rich. Dyno graphing an rpm and afr can give the tuner an idea if you have a lean or rich spot in your afr tracing. This can improve street drivability as well as humps or dips can sometimes cause random knock in lean cases and hesitation in rich cases. This afr tracing can e done through etuning too but requires you to tie it into the laptop and RR to log widwband. Etunes are good for people who have simple mods or are not close to a dyno tuner, road tunes suffice but IMO anythig above stage 2 would benefit from a dyno tune. Dyno tunes should always be followed up with a road tune cleanup to ensure drivability and real-life engine load changes are accounted for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 Oh and 4. Its quicker. No waiting for revisions. You leave the facility in a couple hours done and ready to roll Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted May 11, 2012 Author I Donated Share Posted May 11, 2012 I know a dyno tune is going to get me more power. However, I'm mostly worried about safety. An e-tune costs me $0 because I'm already in the middle of it (well, plus the $150 for a wideband). A dyno tune is more like $450+. And I just spent $2700 on my car over the past month or so. I can always get dyno tuned later when I want to do it right. Also, my time is worth a maximum of $40 an hour right now, so as long as I spend less than 11.25 hours tuning, I come out ahead. So it really comes down to safety. I am logging with a netbook, so I can get AFR synced with the rest of my log, no problem. But I don't want to do something that might break something again. So if a dyno tune is safer, I will pay upfront, but if I can get away with an e-tune for the time being without compromising safety, I'd like to do that. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 dyno tunes are safe. No one said you cant have power and safety. Anyway, you just answered your own question with a financial consideration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted May 11, 2012 Author I Donated Share Posted May 11, 2012 I know dyno tunes are safe. No debate there. I'm just wondering whether e-tunes are comparatively safe enough if I use a WBO2. If not, I go dyno tune, because as you said, dyno tunes are safe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted May 12, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted May 12, 2012 As long as you are asking anyone other than mweiner, a road tune is perfectly safe. Either one is safe, just figure out which one you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 The Kevlar one was $26 more. I said "why not?" But apparently the answer was "Because it is back-ordered and you won't get your motor together as quickly." At this point, I'd only get the non-Kevlar one a day or two earlier, so it doesn't make sense to change my order. $26 more?!?! When I got my quote, it was only $5 to go with the awesome Gates blue racing belt (so I did!). I honestly doubt it will do anything different than the non-blue one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted May 12, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted May 12, 2012 Yea, if the belt is going to fail prematurely, it will be from something else breaking it. Even the kevlar one will give out if a pulley ceases or the tensioner leaks. IMO, no point in going for the kevlar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 Another vote for dyno tune. My Tuner was fine doing street tunes until I went to the vf52. Then he recommended the dyno so he could make sure everything was safe. It's kind of, pay me now or pay me more later thing. Think about it. He's not just doing to make money, his reputation is on the line. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Balrock Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 Dyno tunes are not always safe. I had my ringlands exploded on the dyno from a protune. That was not safe. Fast forward and car is all back together and I go to another shop for a tune. ALL day for a tune. Made decent power and the car was still in one piece so I was happy. Much later I got the car e-tuned from shamar and a not only made more power on my tune, but it also spooled quicker. Did I have to wait longer for the e-tune...yeah. Based on my personal experience with Shamar I would wait 2 weeks beteween revisions if I had to. Not saying I would not email and ask how my map was coming along,but I would wait. Moral of my story, be sure your tuner knows what he is doing. :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 you would've broken those same ringlands doing a 3rd gear log on the street, it's not the dyno's fault. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Balrock Posted May 13, 2012 Share Posted May 13, 2012 you would've broken those same ringlands doing a 3rd gear log on the street, it's not the dyno's fault. No it is not the dyno's fault. I just think an e-tune can be as safe as a dyno tune and be close in numbers. My moral was have a good tuner and dont rag on an e-tune. Hell, I needed the dyno to see how good my e-tune was. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted May 13, 2012 Share Posted May 13, 2012 good luck finding mbt on the road. unless you can replicate the same wind speed, temperature, elevation, and weight every single 3rd gear pull for each revision. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted May 19, 2012 Author I Donated Share Posted May 19, 2012 Engine is together, most of the stuff is in the car, and I will be ready to start up tomorrow. How long do I run the engine before the first oil change? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No DRFT Posted May 19, 2012 Share Posted May 19, 2012 That was fast! how long did it really took you? less than 1k. I have no control over drippie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted May 19, 2012 Author I Donated Share Posted May 19, 2012 That was fast! how long did it really took you? less than 1k. Second oil change comes at 1k. I'm trying to figure out when the first one (to get all the extra dirt from the rebuild) is supposed to be. Probably took me like 4 hours to remove the engine, 6 hours to pull apart, 3 hours for me to watch as the other guy installed the pistons , 8 hours to put the rest of the engine together, and will have taken about 5 hours to put everything back in the car once I'm done. Oh, and about 1.5 weeks waiting for parts... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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