ripemeat Posted September 26, 2012 Share Posted September 26, 2012 manifold gaskets that are failing will usually cause cold start misfiring and sometimes a lean code. the symptoms would subside once the engine warms up. its more prevalent during outside temperatures less than 40* overnight and during the morning start, and when the car has been sitting overnight bone cold. how to check? boost leak test first thing in the am after a frosty night. 09+ LGT's got revised manifold o-rings, they are flatter with a better contact surface than previous versions (rounded). the part numbers remain the same but you'll get the revised ones since subaru is no longer supplying the rounded type for this very issue. something like $25 for all 4. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted September 27, 2012 Author Share Posted September 27, 2012 manifold gaskets that are failing will usually cause cold start misfiring and sometimes a lean code. the symptoms would subside once the engine warms up. its more prevalent during outside temperatures less than 40* overnight and during the morning start, and when the car has been sitting overnight bone cold. how to check? boost leak test first thing in the am after a frosty night. 09+ LGT's got revised manifold o-rings, they are flatter with a better contact surface than previous versions (rounded). the part numbers remain the same but you'll get the revised ones since subaru is no longer supplying the rounded type for this very issue. something like $25 for all 4. Bingo! My car has bonerrific boost/vac leak test numbers, but I've always driven it to the shop. I need to let it sit overnight sometime and then have him do it. Or does anyone sell a boost leak tester? Blah blah, make my own. Free time is not something I have. I only get the CEL coming on when the engine is cold, so this theory makes sense. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 Or does anyone sell a boost leak tester? Blah blah, make my own. Free time is not something I have. Have you seen this? http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/group-buy-vacuum-leak-tester-188394.html I know you said you don't have time to make one but still worth checking this out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasAyinde Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 I'll make you one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 I'll make you one I just advertised your stuff twice today Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadvw Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 Update: after doing bulletproofing to the other side of my TMIC, I found that the TMIC coupler to the intake (?) was loose. Not at the TMIC side, but the manifold side. After tightening that properly, things seem MUCH better wrt idle. I was able to drop my rpm bump from 200 to 150, and it's still way better than before at 200. So, I may try to drop to 100 soon. Car is driving MUCH better. Hopefully that's all it was! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripemeat Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 BigTdogg- easiest way to find out is to start the car up and immediately keep refreshing LV and see if that A learning number is climbing positive. it's possible it leans out during cold starts and then reverts to a ~normal value once warmed up. you'll know if there's a present vac leak during cold starts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 just add AF Learning 1 into RR. That will show whatever the AF trim currently being applied is. and actually, now that i think more about it, two things 1) during a cold start, idle is higher, therefore the airflow will be >5.6 and <10 so it'll be in trim B and 2) I don't think AF learning occurs until the car is actually warmed up... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted September 28, 2012 Author Share Posted September 28, 2012 How do I adjust the ranges of the fuel adjustment columns? Last clear it had added a ton of fuel (11ish) in the low flow range. So I don't think it's my battery anymore, although that's not helping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripemeat Posted September 28, 2012 Share Posted September 28, 2012 there's no need to adjust the column flow ranges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted October 7, 2012 Author Share Posted October 7, 2012 IMO, ignore it or change the fuel trim ranges so that they are relevant, for example 0-10;10-20;20-30;40+. So you're talking about the ranges in the actual program, in RomRaider? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripemeat Posted October 7, 2012 Share Posted October 7, 2012 that's completely irrelevant and a poor way of visualizing or determining a/f corrections during warm up. log maf g/s and maf voltage and a/f learning 1 AND correction during start up, then you'll know what area in the maf scale your car warms up at and if serious corrections are being applied due to leaks. there's no need to mess with your current learning view window trims, because as always- LOGGING TRUMPS LEARNING VIEW. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted October 7, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted October 7, 2012 yea, but 0-5 is pointless. it swings wildly and is of no use. might as well make them more relevant.it isnt a substitute for logging, but a snapshot to let you know you should do some logging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripemeat Posted October 7, 2012 Share Posted October 7, 2012 actually, idle at fully warmed is in the mid 4.0g/s range. learning A is strictly idle. and that's how it should be. he already suspects a problem, there's no need to futs with learning ranges. learning B range is where to pay attention, because that's where i suspect the corrections are made for start-up since the rpm's are higher too. he'd have to log to find out what g/s and voltages are hit during cold start and pay attention to learning #1 and correction, might as well log afr sensor 1 too... other than that, B range is almost impossible to consciously hit while in gear(per NSFW article). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted October 7, 2012 Share Posted October 7, 2012 I believe B is where you're at when you're coasting at speed with no throttle at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users paintpollz Posted October 13, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted October 13, 2012 after at least 6 months since the last revision "Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted May 20, 2013 Author Share Posted May 20, 2013 Any input on where my vac leak may be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 20, 2013 Moderators Share Posted May 20, 2013 Any input on where my vac leak may be? Looking at the LV it shouldn't be hard to find. Get some soapy water in a spray bottle or some carb cleaner, start it up, and start spraying. I bet you find it pretty damn quick. Possibilities: intake, vacuum hoses, TB-to-TMIC hose, TMIC-to-turbo connection, TB to intake manifold, after-MAF hose... "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted May 20, 2013 Author Share Posted May 20, 2013 Possibilities: intake, vacuum hoses, TB-to-TMIC hose, TMIC-to-turbo connection, TB to intake manifold, after-MAF hose... So the hoses and connections you mentioned on the pressurized side, wouldn't they result in a rich condition under boost? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 20, 2013 Moderators Share Posted May 20, 2013 You are getting unmetered air into the system (after the MAF sensor). Consequently, the ECU is adding extra fuel to try and compensate for the additional air. 15.00 is the max value for those stored fuel trims and that's not enough added fuel to compensate so you're getting a CEL / codes. I was dealing with a similar issue but my leak was much smaller. The potential advantage of your situation is that the leak appears to be quite large so it should be easy to find. Did you do any work on the car recently? "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted May 20, 2013 Author Share Posted May 20, 2013 So yes, after MAF, but I would think it would only be up to the compressor inlet, otherwise once boosted it becomes a boost leak and runs rich. Make sense? Just trying to narrow where to look. Recently I had my turbo replaced, TGV deletes, manifold gaskets replaced among other things. Then I replaced my O2 sensor and drive belts. I'll try the soapy water tonight if it's not raining. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 20, 2013 Moderators Share Posted May 20, 2013 Not sure about boost vs vac leak. You are seeing the largest fuel corrections at idle and low load, though--makes me think vac leak. Maybe when you are under boost the leak is sealing back up...? "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 Blue T under TMIC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted May 20, 2013 Author Share Posted May 20, 2013 Blue T under TMIC. Appeared to be secure, but I'll double check tonight. I did put a spring clamp on it when I installed my BP TMIC kit. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 20, 2013 Moderators Share Posted May 20, 2013 Aftermarket air filter, by chance? "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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